Make no mistake, Benjamin Leroux has fashioned a stunning set of wines in 2024, in both colours. No one will be surprised to hear the whites are more than outstanding (the vintage is rightly garnering more and more of a reputation for its whites), but the quality of the reds is a revelation, and it speaks to his quality as a grower and maker to have produced such even, and frankly, superb quality, in such a challenging year. In terms of yields, 2024 was a vintage of two halves, with most parts of the Côte de Beaune achieving reasonable crops while the Côte de Nuits was absolutely smashed. To give you an idea, Leroux normally makes thirty barrels across Nuits-Saint-Georges in a typical year—in 2024, he made one! Quite a few bottlings across the Côte de Nuits couldn't be made at all (which often meant that much of the 1er cru and even some grand cru fruit went into generic bottlings – one bonus for us as consumers). By contrast, most of Leroux’s Côte de Beaune vineyards achieved solid yields—Meursault especially, where yields held at a comfortable 48 hectolitres per hectare for the premier crus. Mildew and cool, rainy weather at the beginning of the season were the biggest culprits in the Côte de Nuits, severely affecting flowering. This has nothing to do with quality, only yields. Quality was, however, challenged throughout the year, with cool, wet periods meaning a lot of work and risk for an organic and biodynamic farmer like Leroux. "You had to be in the vineyard all the time," he said of the season where intermittent and regular rain events meant returning to the vines again and again, especially when you work organically. It will certainly be a year to buy the best growers (isn’t it always?) as those who worked the hardest and with the most precision in the vineyards, and equally sorted precisely in the cellar, will have made significantly better wines. Although the season was a challenge, it finally ended well, and Leroux told us that, finally, the work in the cellar was a “…piece of cake.” “It was a difficult growing season, but it was very easy to make the wines,” was how he put it. “No rain in August, a clean harvest from September 13th, and excellent juice meant that ferments and malolactic flew through without a problem.” Leroux destemmed most of the reds, as there were often too few berries on the bunches, used no new oak, and continued experimenting with glass vessels (Wineglobe) and ceramic (Clayver) vessels for their known, consistent porosity. With his desire to preserve freshness and purity, Leroux now ferments and ages 50% of his white wine and 50% of his reds in large casks (we have included 500 and 600-litre casks in that calculation). He also has an ever-growing stash of Wineglobes—often used in the second year to instil more purity—and ceramic vessels. Leroux is also increasingly using 456-litre barrels for the top wines, and any new 228-litre pièces used for Pinot are first tempered with a white fermentation. He also uses minimal added sulphur, with meticulous on-site testing as the wine ages. When we visited and tasted through the entire range of wines with Leroux, the word “relief” came up several times. “Pride” as well. When you must work so hard in the vines, and the result is something truly beautiful, both words make sense. All in all, it’s a shining year for a grower-producer who is today at the top of his game.