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Reichsrat Von Buhl 2024

Diamond Cut ~ Organic, Dry Riesling from a Great Year
Reichsrat Von Buhl 2024

While harvest is still underway in Germany, the latest arrivals from Reichsrat Von Buhl, have hit the warehouse. One of the Pfalz's most storied estates, founded back in 1849 by Franz Peter Buhl, Von Buhl's approach remains traditional and quality-focused under the guidance of former Bollinger winemaker Matthieu Kauffmann. This includes: organic vineyard practices, careful sorting, minimal sulphur, large 2,400L oak casks, extended lees contact (even at entry level), and no pumping anywhere in the winemaking.

 

The Pfalz Riesling Trocken 2024, is a stunning value and the perfect introduction to the juicy, crunchy house style. Then the Deidesheimer Riesling Trocken 2024, sourced from two classified sites, give us much more depth and character. Finally the striking Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken 2024, from this famed VDP Erstes Gewächs site, is well and truly worthy of its 'grand cru' GG status. It's deep, layered, mineral and with a finish that goes on forever.

The Wines

Reichsrat von Buhl Pfalz Riesling Trocken 2024

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Reichsrat von Buhl Pfalz Riesling Trocken 2024

Von Buhl’s entry-level wine is drawn from the Estate’s great sandstone-rich vineyards around the villages of Deidesheim, Forst and Ruppertsberg. All the vineyards are certified organic. In the cellars, most of the juice naturally ferments in tank, with some parcels fermented in Von Buhl's oval dopplestück oak casks. Even at this level, the wine’s upbringing includes extended lees aging (six months on gross lees). There is no pumping and very little added sulphur. This is a terrific-value dry Riesling, with the juicy palate weight of the vintage proving a perfect foil for the rocky texture, mouthwatering, citrus-edged acidity and near-absolute-dry finish. It will, as always, work wonders by the glass (and bottle).

Reichsrat von Buhl Pfalz Riesling Trocken 2024

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Reichsrat von Buhl Deidesheimer Riesling Trocken 2024

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Reichsrat von Buhl Deidesheimer Riesling Trocken 2024

As the name suggests, this is a village wine from Deidesheim, one of the Pfalz's most famous communes. The wine is produced entirely from grapes grown within Deidesheim's legal boundaries. Despite the modest sounding classification, the fruit itself actually comes from two classified sites, the VDP Erste Lage Deidesheimer Kieslberg and the VDP Grosse Lage Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker! Both of these vineyards sit on Buntsandstein, the region's distinctive red sandstone, which shows through clearly in the glass, with citrus and stone fruit up front, laced with fine herbal notes and vibrant, fresh acidity. An outstanding Riesling for a very fair price.

Reichsrat von Buhl Deidesheimer Riesling Trocken 2024

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Reichsrat von Buhl Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken 2024

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Reichsrat von Buhl Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken 2024

From the Paradiesgarten site, classified as VDP Erstes Gewächs, the equivalent of a French Premier Cru. The vines here sit at 120 to 170 metres on weathered red and yellow sandstone, soils that give the wine its fineness and balance. It's a stnning wine packed with peach and yellow plum fruit, herbal spice and rocky freshness. 

Reichsrat von Buhl Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken 2024

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“… the new regime is nailing it: these were truly brilliant wines. The vineyards are now being managed biodynamically, and the cellar is just amazing. Mathieu has had to start again, buying new large oak (2400 litre dopplestücks, which differ markedly by manufacturer, he says) each year to repopulate the stunning underground facility so that he can make the wines he likes. He favours large oak, minimal use of sulfur dioxide during vinification, long lees ageing and minimal movement of the wine.” Jamie Goode, wineanorak.com

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