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Only 12 bottles shipped. There’s an old saying in the Côte de Beaune that goes: “If you haven’t drunk Caillerets, you don't know Volnay!” Benjamin Leroux could hardly conceal his excitement when he first told us he had access to a parcel of vines in this famous site, which he calls the “King of Volnay.” That excitement has certainly been borne out in the brilliant new releases.
Les Caillerets is a beautifully exposed terroir that sits mid-slope, on the border with Meursault. It’s exploited by important growers such as d’Angerville, Lafarge and Pousse d’Or. The 14-odd-hectare vineyard is subdivided into three lieux-dits, with Leroux now farming 0.5 hectares of Pinot Fin (planted in 1945, 1985 and the late ‘90s) in the area known as Caillerets-Dessus (another Dessus!). This is magical. Leroux included 80% whole bunches in the ferment, and the resulting wine is deep and powerful, full of spice and florals. So long! As it was last year, this is Grand Cru quality. Sadly, only half the usual volume was produced.