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Les Mitans derives from the old French for ‘centre’, and this is likely the source of the name as this Cru lies at the heart of the appellation, on the slopes beneath the village. Leroux’s 0.65-hectare parcel is close to the Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Barre and encroaches into the Mitans l’Ormeau lieu-dit. The soil is fine clay, shot through with limestone, which preserves excellent moisture during dry spells. The vines are 50 years old on average. Only four barrels made this year. It’s so pretty and perfumed yet, again, the palate has more depth and structure than you might expect from the nose.