“Pioneer” is not a term to be used lightly, yet it is entirely fitting when describing the careers of Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy. This influential partnership was not only among the early wave of growers who seriously explored and planted the Mornington Peninsula in the early 1990s, but also the first to recognise the region’s now-obvious potential for Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio. Their work with the variety would ultimately elevate it to household recognition in Australia. Quealy had long suspected that Pinot Gris would thrive in Mornington’s conditions. Unable to source sufficient fruit, she and McCarthy took matters into their own hands, planting the variety at T’Gallant in 1994. With some foresight, they structured their vineyards to yield two distinct expressions: one leaner and restrained, the other richer and more hedonistic. It wasn’t long before Quealy earned the title “Queen of Pinot Grigio” from James Halliday. Today, the legacy continues under the cultured guidance of Tom McCarthy. If Kathleen is the Queen, Tom is surely the Prince of Pinot Gris, carrying forward the same passion and intuitive understanding of the varietal. His approach begins in the vineyard, with meticulous, organically influenced farming, and culminates in a striking range of wines as vivid as they are expressive of site. As Tom explains, the Quealy distinction between Grigio and Gris lies largely in altitude and ripeness. The single-vineyard Pinot Gris comes from higher, cooler vineyards, where grapes are left to ripen into late autumn, producing seamless, generous wines. In contrast, Pinot Grigio is sourced from the warmer Balnarring sites, harvested earlier to preserve freshness and energy, resulting in a more vibrant, racy style. As Kathleen puts it, “Pinot Grigio needs movement—you might sacrifice a little flavour for a lot of style.” Whichever expression you prefer, each bottle reflects the thoughtful viticulture and winemaking for which Quealy is rightfully lauded—beautifully crafted, cool climate wines from a pioneer operating at the height of its powers.s