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Bibendum Wine Co.
Bibendum Wine Co.
Bibendum Wine Co.

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Jaeger-Defaix Restocks

Although it’s extremely rare to find top-notch, top-value GROWER Burgundy these days, there is still some to be found if you know where to look. 
Jaeger-Defaix Restocks

Although it’s extremely rare to find top-notch, top-value GROWER Burgundy these days, there is still some to be found if you know where to look. The organically managed Rully domaine of Hélène Defaix (née Jaeger) is only 6.5 hectares, a fraction of the size of the Chablis estate—Domaine Bernard Defaix—for which she and her husband, Didier Defaix, are better known. Not only have Hélène and Didier turned out a wonderfully finessed, energetic and finely sculpted set of Burgundies from Domaine Jaeger-Defaix in 2023, but the fact that Rully somehow still flies under the radar means that the pricing remains brilliant value!

Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully Rouge 2023

Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully Rouge 2023

Diam. Jaeger-Defaix’s village Rully (100% Pinot Noir) comes from a small parcel of Rully village vines purchased in 2011. Favourably sited in the Vorot lieu-dit, the 30-year-old vines have been farmed organically for decades. This parcel yields small bunches of grapes with thick skins and powerful juice. This year's fruit was entirely destemmed, and the wine aged in seasoned oak barrels (from one to three years old) for 12 months. This is a juicy, highly enjoyable, elegant and rewarding Burgundy with red berry and violet-scented flesh and the suave, powdery mouthfeel of top-notch Pinot Noir.

“Very forward red fruit with a stony accent. Mouth-filling, the flavours framed with a grain of tannin. Really wide, slowly fading, delicious flavours – you could drink this now – no overt barrel character here…”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully Rouge 2023
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully Blanc 2023

Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully Blanc 2023

A new wine in the portfolio, the Rully villages comes from a parcel of vines located just below the 1er Cru Vauvry in the lieu-dit of Bas de Vauvry. Whole-bunch pressed, wild-fermented and aged in older, 500-litre barrels for 12 months, expect enticing floral and stone fruit flavours knit together by fine acidity and a mineral note running through the citrus-flecked palate. Defaix’s low-managed yields lend calibrated acidity, elegant shape and length to a great value white Burgundy that will provide enormous drinking pleasure from day one.

Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully Blanc 2023
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Rabourcé Blanc 2023

Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Rabourcé Blanc 2023

Diam. Rabourcé has traditionally been nicknamed ‘the Montrachet of Rully’ for the richness and power it delivers. It is a very steep site west of the village, above the highly regarded Cloux vineyard and just below the woods. The soils are mainly white, limestone-rich clay. The Defaix vines are now between 40 and 45 years old. Rabourcé is always one of Rully’s first vineyards to ripen, and Defaix’s 2023 is a superb example—a wine of impressive depth and power. It fermented with indigenous yeasts and was raised in used oak barrels. Expect waves of fleshy, mouthcoating stone fruit and white flower notes with excellent intensity, culminating in a long, balanced, refreshing close.

“A more floral width of aroma. Really wide, a more juicy style of wine that has an obvious minerality. Such width to this flavour. The accent of the barrel would have me waiting 2-3 years before drinking but this is a great Rully!!”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report
“Excellent density infiltrates the powerful, well-proportioned mouthfeel. Apple pie spice, cherimoya and quince create fireworks on the palate. Aged in tonneaux for up to 18 months, the suavely massaged acidity gives this nicely supporting peps.”
93 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Tim Atkin Burgundy Report
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Rabourcé Blanc 2023
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux Blanc 2023 (1500ml)

Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux Blanc 2023 (1500ml)

Diam. Rully’s Les Cloux vineyard is located just south of the village, with south-easterly exposure on the sirloin cut of Rully 1er Cru overlooking the plain of Saône. Les Cloux is home to Defaix’s oldest vines, planted in 1944 on the classic clay/limestone mix found across the best sites in Burgundy. Since 2009, these old vines have been managed organically. Within Rully, Les Cloux is known for its ability to balance elegant and mouthwatering flesh with tangy grip and fine length, and 2023 delivers in spades. This 100% Chardonnay fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in older barrels (up to seven years old) for 12 months before settling in stainless steel.

“A more vertical nose – high and low tones. Hmm, a beautiful wine – mineral and intense but with a certain extra ripeness versus the Chablis. Cushioned but complex too. Really wide finishing – I love this wine !!”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux Blanc 2023 (1500ml)
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux Blanc 2023

Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux Blanc 2023

Diam. Rully’s Les Cloux vineyard is located just south of the village, with south-easterly exposure on the sirloin cut of Rully 1er Cru overlooking the plain of Saône. Les Cloux is home to Defaix’s oldest vines, planted in 1944 on the classic clay/limestone mix found across the best sites in Burgundy. Since 2009, these old vines have been managed organically. Within Rully, Les Cloux is known for its ability to balance elegant and mouthwatering flesh with tangy grip and fine length, and 2023 delivers in spades. This 100% Chardonnay fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in older barrels (up to seven years old) for 12 months before settling in stainless steel.

“A more vertical nose – high and low tones. Hmm, a beautiful wine – mineral and intense but with a certain extra ripeness versus the Chablis. Cushioned but complex too. Really wide finishing – I love this wine !!”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux Blanc 2023
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chapître Rouge 2023 (1500ml)

Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chapître Rouge 2023 (1500ml)

Diam. Clos du Chapître is a one-hectare monopole behind the family house and cellars within the Rully 1er Cru Chapître, enclosed by a two-metre-high stone wall. The Pinot yields here are controlled by severe pruning, disbudding and green harvesting. There is also manual sorting of bunches to keep only the most beautiful clusters of fruit. This year, the wine aged in oak barrels (10% new) for 12 months before settling in tank before bottling.

Jancis Robinson MW has written that the wines from this site “offer proof that the Côte Chalonnaise can now field wines of serious interest to those raised on Côte d’Or wines”. As always, Clos du Chapître delivers the expected step up from the village Rully in depth, structure and complexity, yet there’s no lack of juicy brightness courtesy of this utterly charming vintage.


“A similar aromatic expression to the previous but with more scale and a little extra freshness too. Like the nose there is extra scale in the mouth and much extra freshness. Complex – even peppery – in the finishing flavours. That’s super but for keeping – It’s clearly my new favourite !!” Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report
“Luxuriously sumptuous in decadently ripe red fruits, this has a beautiful nose of fine spice, violets, mulberries and boysenberries. The elegant structure is perfectly tempered with filmy tannins flowing seamlessly with lifting freshness.”
94 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Tim Atkin Burgundy Report
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chapître Rouge 2023 (1500ml)
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chapître Rouge 2023

Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chapître Rouge 2023

Diam. Clos du Chapître is a one-hectare monopole behind the family house and cellars within the Rully 1er Cru Chapître, enclosed by a two-metre-high stone wall. The Pinot yields here are controlled by severe pruning, disbudding and green harvesting. There is also manual sorting of bunches to keep only the most beautiful clusters of fruit. This year, the wine aged in oak barrels (10% new) for 12 months before settling in tank before bottling.

Jancis Robinson MW has written that the wines from this site “offer proof that the Côte Chalonnaise can now field wines of serious interest to those raised on Côte d’Or wines”. As always, Clos du Chapître delivers the expected step up from the village Rully in depth, structure and complexity, yet there’s no lack of juicy brightness courtesy of this utterly charming vintage.

“A similar aromatic expression to the previous but with more scale and a little extra freshness too. Like the nose there is extra scale in the mouth and much extra freshness. Complex – even peppery – in the finishing flavours. That’s super but for keeping – It’s clearly my new favourite !!”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report
“Luxuriously sumptuous in decadently ripe red fruits, this has a beautiful nose of fine spice, violets, mulberries and boysenberries. The elegant structure is perfectly tempered with filmy tannins flowing seamlessly with lifting freshness.”
94 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Tim Atkin Burgundy Report
Domaine Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Clos du Chapître Rouge 2023

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