With its green, shire-like landscape studded with extinct volcanoes, the tiny, remote appellation of the Côtes du Forez is another of France’s hidden gems. Although technically part of the Loire department, we tend to associate it more closely with Beaujolais. The drive from Lyon to La Madone takes roughly an hour and a half, less than half the time it takes to reach Sancerre. Then, there is the hilly, granite-rich terroir and its single grape variety: Gamay.Whatever the region lacks in visibility, the best wines of the Forez make up for in personality. Gamay has long thrived in the volcanic and granite soils of the Massif Central, and few growers are doing more than Gilles Bonnefoy to expand the reputation of this region. Bonnefoy’s high altitude vineyards have been certified biodynamic since 2009, and the winemaking is minimal—mostly in concrete, sandstone amphora and cuve inox, with indigenous yeast and low sulphur.For those new to this producer, Madone’s Gamays are vibrant and delicious reds that combine the personality of good Beaujolais with sleek, rocky freshness and marked savoury nuance all their own. Were they to come from a more well-known appellation, they would cost considerably more. As it is, here are some of the best-value artisan reds (and a white) coming out of France. Please contact your rep if you would like to taste.