In 1849, French writer Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr wrote “plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose,” – the more things change, the more they stay the same. Pete Schell has been quietly chipping away at the Barossa coalface for a quarter of a century now, constantly extracting all manner of vinous gems. Some have called him the Godfather of the New Barossa—the winemaker who helped redefine the style of wine we could expect from the Barossa Valley and the surrounding foothills. Not only is Schell still going strong, but he’s also still evolving and his family’s wines are only traveling one exciting direction. Spinifex is now a fully fledged domaine, with three-quarters of the grapes that make up their many splendored portfolio coming from vineyards they farm themselves. Alongside the vines, Pete and Magali have also ‘grown’ two talented staff members in Louis and Noah Schell who work alongside their parents. Despite this exciting evolution, Schell hasn’t forgotten his network of traditional growers scattered across the Barossa and its foothills. Those relationships remain a pillar of the range — the kind of old-school deals built on trust, ancient vines, and a shared belief in great grapes. The releases below continue the trend that began in 2001; they are as fresh and vital a set of wines as we have seen from this wonderful producer. The kind of wines that make you wonder what else the Barossa has been hiding. In recent years he has managed to grow his legend by bringing Barossa’s historical tapestry of white grapes—Clairette, Ugni Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Vermentino et al—back into our glasses. Need we even mention the rosé, which remains the pioneer and a yardstick? And what about the Papillon red; a Barossa beauty that metamorphoses ancient vine grenache and friends into a supple weave of delicious clarity and fruit purity. All for less than $20. As Mike Bennie alludes to above, class is permanent and there are few classier outfits out there than Spinifex.