Perched between Morgon and Fleurie at around 400 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Chiroubles are the highest in Beaujolais. The vines sit on the upper slopes and, in general, produce a Beaujolais that is all “lacy texture and sleek charm”, to quote Gerald Asher. Bouland’s Chiroubles has a bit more stuffing than that, especially in a powerful year like ’23. It comes from a 0.65-hectare parcel of 35- to 45-year-old vines on the steep, ridged incline of Chatenay, which has Cru’s typical granite and yellow sandstone soils. Protected by a nearby forest, it’s a warm, north-facing site. The new vintage is supple and open with fleshy texture, plenty of sweet cherry flavour, supporting acidity and a lovely, spice-laden close. Absolutely lip-smacking, it would be terrific with charcuterie but will, in fact, go with a wide range of food. Delicious drinking now!

Perched between Morgon and Fleurie at around 400 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Chiroubles are the highest in Beaujolais. The vines sit on the upper slopes and, in general, produce a Beaujolais that is all “lacy texture and sleek charm”, to quote Gerald Asher. Bouland’s Chiroubles has a bit more stuffing than that, especially in a powerful year like ’23. It comes from a 0.65-hectare parcel of 35- to 45-year-old vines on the steep, ridged incline of Chatenay, which has Cru’s typical granite and yellow sandstone soils. Protected by a nearby forest, it’s a warm, north-facing site. The new vintage is supple and open with fleshy texture, plenty of sweet cherry flavour, supporting acidity and a lovely, spice-laden close. Absolutely lip-smacking, it would be terrific with charcuterie but will, in fact, go with a wide range of food. Delicious drinking now!

Named after Daniel Bouland’s daughter, Cuvée Mélanie is drawn from a small, steep, half-hectare plot on the slopes of Mont Brouilly. The 70-year-old vines are rooted on the area’s famous terres bleu (blue-tinted volcanic soils) within the lieu-dit of Tête Noire, directly above Château Thivin. The blue schist lends the wines of this Cru their unique mineral profile. Bouland’s 0.8-hectare parcel is planted at 12,000 vines per hectare. As with all of Bouland’s cuvées, this is a wine born of low yields and natural, whole-bunch fermentation.

As you would expect from this terroir, it’s more baritone than Chiroubles, sporting darker, plusher fruit and deeper spice notes. The ’23 has lovely deep aromatics leading to a fleshy palate crammed with dark berries and Christmas spice. No lack of testosterone this year, though its structural chassis does its job well. Une bombe!

This cuvée is largely made the same way as the Bellevue Sable wine—natural, whole-bunch ferment and no fining—though the vines are on different rootstocks (420A rootstock in this case, specifically designed for terroirs that are very stony and have no topsoil). Also, the vines are a touch older than in the Sable cuvée below. It’s another deep, inky expression of Morgon with layers of creamy red cherry and blue fruit flecked by blue flowers, graphite and the earthy spice of the vintage. It has more pucker and tightening tannin at this stage than the broader Sable cuvée below.

This cuvée is largely made the same way as the Bellevue Sable wine—natural, whole-bunch ferment and no fining—though the vines are on different rootstocks (420A rootstock in this case, specifically designed for terroirs that are very stony and have no topsoil). Also, the vines are a touch older than in the Sable cuvée below. It’s another deep, inky expression of Morgon with layers of creamy red cherry and blue fruit flecked by blue flowers, graphite and the earthy spice of the vintage. It has more pucker and tightening tannin at this stage than the broader Sable cuvée below.

Bouland’s Bellevue soils are split into two cuvées—one for the sand (Sable) and one for the stones (Cailloux). These two parcels are only separated by a small track, yet, as Bouland points out, the soil is completely different. Terroir! Not only does the weathered sandy granite differ from the Cailloux parcel, but the slope is steeper, and the 40- to 50-year-old vines are on a specific low-yielding rootstock called Vialla—a stock well adapted to sandy, granitic or deep argilo-siliceous soils. Tasted side-by-side, the Sable cuvée is the more yielding of the two wines, with a greater width and juicier tannins than the Cailloux bottling. Regardless, the wine retains superb, juicy drive and finishes with superb, pour-me-another-glass intensity.

Bouland’s Bellevue soils are split into two cuvées—one for the sand (Sable) and one for the stones (Cailloux). These two parcels are only separated by a small track, yet, as Bouland points out, the soil is completely different. Terroir! Not only does the weathered sandy granite differ from the Cailloux parcel, but the slope is steeper, and the 40- to 50-year-old vines are on a specific low-yielding rootstock called Vialla—a stock well adapted to sandy, granitic or deep argilo-siliceous soils. Tasted side-by-side, the Sable cuvée is the more yielding of the two wines, with a greater width and juicier tannins than the Cailloux bottling. Regardless, the wine retains superb, juicy drive and finishes with superb, pour-me-another-glass intensity.

This wine is the first of three cuvées focusing on Corcelette’s sandy and granitic soils. This soil generates wines of great perfume and finer, rounder tannins than you find in Morgon’s more schist-influenced terroirs. Bouland separates his so-called ‘younger’ vines in this area (60 years on average, so hardly young!) from his oldest bush vines, which are bottled under the Vieilles Vignes label.

Like all Bouland’s wines, this fermented as whole bunches with indigenous yeasts, with the must foot trodden at the end to prolong the fermentation. A fine start to the trio of 2023 Corcelette-labelled cuvées, it’s more red-fruited, savoury and floral than the wines above. Revelling in the depth of the year, there is sheer pleasure in the brightness of the aromatics and the palate and so much refreshment in the smoky, vibrant close. Great focus and drive. There is enough stuffing and powdery tannin to justify cellaring for at least 3-5 years.

This wine is the first of three cuvées focusing on Corcelette’s sandy and granitic soils. This soil generates wines of great perfume and finer, rounder tannins than you find in Morgon’s more schist-influenced terroirs. Bouland separates his so-called ‘younger’ vines in this area (60 years on average, so hardly young!) from his oldest bush vines, which are bottled under the Vieilles Vignes label.

Like all Bouland’s wines, this fermented as whole bunches with indigenous yeasts, with the must foot trodden at the end to prolong the fermentation. A fine start to the trio of 2023 Corcelette-labelled cuvées, it’s more red-fruited, savoury and floral than the wines above. Revelling in the depth of the year, there is sheer pleasure in the brightness of the aromatics and the palate and so much refreshment in the smoky, vibrant close. Great focus and drive. There is enough stuffing and powdery tannin to justify cellaring for at least 3-5 years.

This is our second allocation of Bouland’s Corcelette Vieilles Vignes Cailloux, which is drawn from the domaine’s Corcelette vines rooted in this lieu-dit’s rockier soils. The vines here are only a little younger than the centurion beasts that go in the Sable version of this wine. It’s a terroir that gives a slightly more structured Morgon than the Sable cuvée. To be honest, we have never really had a preference between the two since they were differentiated on the labels starting with the 2019 vintage: both wines are stunning examples of Corcelette.

This is our second allocation of Bouland’s Corcelette Vieilles Vignes Cailloux, which is drawn from the domaine’s Corcelette vines rooted in this lieu-dit’s rockier soils. The vines here are only a little younger than the centurion beasts that go in the Sable version of this wine. It’s a terroir that gives a slightly more structured Morgon than the Sable cuvée. To be honest, we have never really had a preference between the two since they were differentiated on the labels starting with the 2019 vintage: both wines are stunning examples of Corcelette.

One of three site-specific wines from Corcelette, this cuvée is drawn from old vines on granitic sand soils (sable means sand). The vines were planted in 1926, so it’s truly a Vieilles Vignes cuvée. It is the sister wine, if you like, to the Cailloux (stony) cuvée. Unsurprisingly, Bouland’s gnarled old trunks have over-delivered again. Raised in an old foudre, it’s a layered, inky, mouthcoating Morgon oozing blood plum and blackcurrant fruit framed by melting tannins, juicy acids and a long, perfumed finish. If it were from the Côte d'Or, you would be well into three figures.

This wine used to come to us simply as Morgon Vieilles Vignes without the name of the vineyard or lieu-dit (it is now labelled Morgon Les Délys Vignes plantées en 1926). It comes from a single hectare of 100-year-old vines located on the Morgon-Chiroubles border at the end of the Corcelette valley—a terroir historically known as Délys. The old, gnarled vines sit on a southeast-facing slope, planted at 10,000 vines per hectare. 

Humming like an idling V8 engine, it’s always deep and chewy when young—built for long aging in the cellar. The 2023 is saturated with blue and wild berry fruits underscored by cracked pepper and cardamom spice, liquorice root and forest floor complexity. The palate is infused with unstoppable velvety fruitiness and length of flavour rare for the region. Bouland admits that if he could find the grafting materials he needs, he would start to replant this ancient parcel—it yields too little juice for his liking. Just as well he can’t: this is one of the greatest single-vineyard wines in all of Beaujolais.