Aligoté’s fortunes have improved markedly since we began shipping this great-value Burgundy fifteen years ago. Yet here is a Burgundian Domaine where, unlike the Côte d’Or, Aligoté never fell out of fashion; even after phylloxera devastated the region, Guilhem Goisot’s ancestors replanted the variety on high, cool north-facing slopes located above the pretty Yonne town of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. Guilhem Goisot has crafted flat-out brilliant 2023s. Goisot’s old vines, fossil-laden soils and this family’s tireless, biodynamic farming gift the kind of silky density and chalky drive that might be mistaken for a fine St-Aubin village. Just don’t serve the wine too cold. Drink it as you would a Chablis. At 15-plus degrees it has a pure, floral and chalky nose that leads to a wonderfully springy, sculpted texture flecked with lemon rind, Nashi pear, briny freshness and a tangy, chiseled close. Here’s proof that great-value Burgundy is not a thing of the past.