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Girlan

Wines with Altitude: New Releases from the Italian Mountains…
Girlan

For all the riches it has to offer wine lovers, the alpine melting pot of Alto Adige remains a secret, guarded within Italy’s borders. Set amid the sawtooth limestone peaks of South Tyrol, this region’s wine culture has more in common with the neighbouring Austria and Germany than the rest of Italy. Combined with the cool, rocky alpine terroirs, these cultural influences play out in a range of wines that capture the spirit of our times: pulpy, mineral, mouth-watering whites and coolly vibrant, pleasingly juicy reds that are hard not to love. 


Girlan was founded a century ago as a small co-operative winery with 23 growers on their books. Now, under Gerhard Kofler and Oscar Lorandi, Girlan has crafted a cast-iron reputation as one of the region’s standard bearers. The Adige produces many outstanding wines, the best of which deservedly sit in the upper price ranges. Many of these wines represent traditions that reach back centuries. So, to have a producer that offers such value and wines made with purpose is something to cherish. For buyers looking to Europe for diversity and value, few wines will deliver more bang for your buck. 

The Wines

Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023

Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023

This juicy, drink-now aromatic white is a well-judged 45% Pinot Bianco blend with the remainder split between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. All the fruit is grown at 448 metres (hence the name) on the mineral-rich hillside vineyards of Alto Adige's Cornaiano canton. The name not only refers to the altitude of the source vineyards but also to a local expression: ‘448’ or ‘quattro quattro otto’ is a local saying for ‘hurry up’ or ‘chop chop’. So, there's a bit of Tyrolean wordplay going on here.

This is a joy to drink—a super aromatic, juicy wine similarly weighted to a Cheverny or Pouilly Fumé. You can expect a mouthwatering, tangy wine with spring blossom, sliced apple, citrus peel and fresh-cut herbs on the nose and palate. In the mouth, it’s crunchy, racy and refreshing, but becomes more and more textural over time in the glass. Proper mountain wine and serious bang for buck on offer here.

Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Bianco 2023
Girlan Alto Adige Pinot Bianco 2023

Girlan Alto Adige Pinot Bianco 2023

Like most producers in Alto Adige who want to sell some wine on the international market, Girlan makes a Pinot Grigio. It’s a good wine, but the truth is that this producer’s Pinot Bianco is miles more interesting—in our humble opinion. It is drawn from hand-picked fruit on Alto Adige’s mineral-rich hillsides of Cornaiano at altitudes ranging from 450 to 500 metres. The juice fermented in tank, with 10% going through malolactic conversion to add some flesh to the wine's cool Alpine bones. The weight and texture here are pinpoint; it’s a racy, pulpy, kaffir-lime, apple and spiced pastry-scented quencher with lovely, pithy minerality and a zesty Alpine tang on the finish. Another genuine bargain from this over-delivering outfit.

Girlan Alto Adige Pinot Bianco 2023
Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Rosso 2024

Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Rosso 2024

From a vintage built on supple, vibrant fruit and juicy tannins, the 448 Rosso is drawn from grapes grown at around 448 metres above sea level in the Alto Adige. It's crafted from a blend of two indigenous Südtirol varieties—Lagrein and Schiava—along with Pinot Nero. The latter has shown a particular affinity for the terroirs of Alto Adige. The Lagrein comes from deep, sandy soils in the Bassa Atesina (a warmer terroir, ideal for ripening this variety). The Pinot Nero and Schiava are grown on the hillsides of Cornaiano in sunny, well-aerated vineyards. Raised in a mix of tank, barrels and concrete, the 2024 is a cool, fleshy and juby Alpine red steeped in flavours of red berries, cherry and red plums with a lick of herb and spice. It is all neatly folded within the fine, juicy texture—Alpine Beaujolais, anyone? 

Girlan IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 448 Rosso 2024
Girlan Alto Adige Lagrein 2024

Girlan Alto Adige Lagrein 2024

At its best, Lagrein can produce some of Alto Adige’s most striking reds, and this is one such example. Drawn from vineyards within the sandy Bassa Atesina terroir (a canton of the mountainous Südtiroler Unterland), this fine example was raised in large wooden barrels and concrete vats for five months. It’s a cracking red with an enticing push-pull of sweet summer berries, savoury spice and meadow sage notes. That same exuberance plays out on the fleshy palate featuring floral-scented fruit and lively freshness. There’s also a nice twist of juicy-ripe tannins that will meld beautifully with the right food (grilled and roasted meats, game and various hard cheeses would be an excellent start). 


Girlan Alto Adige Lagrein 2024

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