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Cavallotto

Sure-Fire Greatness—The New Barolo Releases
Cavallotto

This brilliant, traditionally-minded grower has carved a striking pair of Riserva wines from 2018, wines that sit effortlessly alongside the more hyped vintages surrounding it. Both are classically powerful releases that do not comfortably fit the stereotype of a lighter Barolo vintage. This will come of no surprise to anyone who knows this producer and its vineyards. Much like Chavignol for Sauvignon Blanc, the Gräfenberg for Riesling, and Burgundy’s Grand Crus, Bricco Boschis is one of Barolo’s more profound terroirs; rarely does the vintage outshine the vineyard.

 

Challenging growing seasons tend to dampen expectations, yet, for Alfio Cavallotto, there is no question that 2018 will be a bridesmaid vintage. He told us that if he were offered more vintages like 2018, he would take them. “It’s a great vintage,” he expressed, safe in the knowledge that his wines—whose grapes were harvested in October—walk the walk. Cavallotto’s glowing assessment of the year only heightened as the wines evolved in both barrel and bottle. Time has been very kind to Barolo’s 2018 vintage. Tasting the wines today makes you appreciate why many of Europe’s top growers seek to release their principal wines with more age.

 

Low yields played a key role, as they often do. The Bricco Boschis yielded just 28 hl/ha, a consequence of this vineyard’s old vines and old clones as well as strict selection. So, where the Riserva Vignolo has a little more perfumed lift and mineral-tinged red fruit in this vintage, the Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is textbook: full of alluring intensity, spice and carved texture. The young wines remind us of 2012 and 2015 at the same stage, two years now looking exceptional from bottle. Barolo lovers will be very pleased to have both in their cellar!

 

And as we discovered in Castiglione Falletto earlier this year, Cavallotto did it again in 2020. Sandwiched between the two dominant vintages of 2019 and 2021, we would happily bet that Cavallotto’s lucid, red fruited 2020 Bricco Boschis will offer more pleasure than the same wine from either vintage if drunk within five years. The moral? Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

The Wines

Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020

Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020

The Bricco Boschis Cru is a truly profound vineyard: an amphitheatre-shaped site producing this estate’s most emblematic Barolo. This wine comes from vines with an average age of 50 years, primarily situated in two parcels within this vineyard. The first is Punta Marcello, which lies at the top of the slope next to the cantina. This cool terroir is known for its fragrant, pale juice and long, angular tannins. Then, there is the Vigna Colle Sudovest parcel, facing south at a lower elevation. This is the vineyard's warmest microclimate, and the fruit from these vines produces fleshier, more accessible wines with darker, more richly flavoured juice and softer tannins. The renowned Vigna San Giuseppe vines also contribute something to the blend, and together, these three components form a complete picture of the Cru, complementing each other and building aromatic and structural complexity. The 2020 saw between 28 and 30 days on skins, followed by three years in large Slavonian oak casks, ranging in size from 20 to 100 hectolitres. It was bottled unfiltered. 


"Ripe red fruit, white pepper, leather, geranium and blood orange aromas come to the forefront on the stunning 2022 Freisa from Cavallotto. It's delicious and enveloping, delivering layers of strawberry, blood orange, truffle and licorice flavors before closing on mint and a salty note. Firm, fine-grained tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity for the hot, dry vintage keep it nicely balanced.”
94 points, Kerin O'Keefe, kerinokeefe.com
“Mid-to-deep ruby. Very youthful on the nose, like the wine was just racked off from the cask. Very distinctive. Cranberry and savoury spice with hints of tamarind and garden herbs. Racy acidity that works like a shot of energy. Wired raspberry and completely dry. Stunning, fine, gravelly tannins.”
18 points, Walter Speller, Jancisrobinson.com
“This spicy red delivers cherry, raspberry, earth and eucalyptus flavors on a broad, dense frame, yet still remains fluid. Burly tannins put a lock on the finish, where accents of orange peel and spices linger.”
94 points, Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator
Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020
Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020 (1500ml)

Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020 (1500ml)

The Bricco Boschis Cru is a truly profound vineyard: an amphitheatre-shaped site producing this estate’s most emblematic Barolo. This wine comes from vines with an average age of 50 years, primarily situated in two parcels within this vineyard. The first is Punta Marcello, which lies at the top of the slope next to the cantina. This cool terroir is known for its fragrant, pale juice and long, angular tannins. Then, there is the Vigna Colle Sudovest parcel, facing south at a lower elevation. This is the vineyard's warmest microclimate, and the fruit from these vines produces fleshier, more accessible wines with darker, more richly flavoured juice and softer tannins. The renowned Vigna San Giuseppe vines also contribute something to the blend, and together, these three components form a complete picture of the Cru, complementing each other and building aromatic and structural complexity. The 2020 saw between 28 and 30 days on skins, followed by three years in large Slavonian oak casks, ranging in size from 20 to 100 hectolitres. It was bottled unfiltered.

"Ripe red fruit, white pepper, leather, geranium and blood orange aromas come to the forefront on the stunning 2022 Freisa from Cavallotto. It's delicious and enveloping, delivering layers of strawberry, blood orange, truffle and licorice flavors before closing on mint and a salty note. Firm, fine-grained tannins and surprisingly fresh acidity for the hot, dry vintage keep it nicely balanced.”
94 points, Kerin O'Keefe, kerinokeefe.com
“Mid-to-deep ruby. Very youthful on the nose, like the wine was just racked off from the cask. Very distinctive. Cranberry and savoury spice with hints of tamarind and garden herbs. Racy acidity that works like a shot of energy. Wired raspberry and completely dry. Stunning, fine, gravelly tannins.”
18 points, Walter Speller, Jancisrobinson.com
“This spicy red delivers cherry, raspberry, earth and eucalyptus flavors on a broad, dense frame, yet still remains fluid. Burly tannins put a lock on the finish, where accents of orange peel and spices linger.”
94 points, Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator
Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 2020 (1500ml)
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva  Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (3000ml)

Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (3000ml)

Vigna San Giuseppe is a 3.7-hectare parcel on a steep slope behind the cantina. It has long been considered the sweet spot for this vineyard, consistently delivering one of the region’s greatest Barolos. You get the best of everything: altitude, but not too much; excellent drainage, but enough water retention thanks to the clay, so the vines don’t stress in dry conditions; and a complex mixture of soils. These soils include blue-tinted clays, which bring power, limestone, adding freshness and mineral drive and sand, that delivers the prettiness and perfume. Once you add especially small bunches from the 60-year-old vines, unique clonal material and southwest exposure, the stars align to produce something magnificent.

Clearly one of the wines of the vintage, this 2018 spent 28 days on skins followed by five years in large cask. Where the Riserva Vignolo has a little more vertical lift and minerality in this vintage, the Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is more about ballast and texture.

"Wild red berry, violet dark spice, forest floor, tobacco and new leather are just some of the aromas you'll find on the gorgeous 2018 Bricco Boschis San Giuseppe Riserva. Still young and tight but already balanced and utterly delicious, the full-bodied palate delivers layers of raspberry compote, ripe cherry, star anise, blood orange and baking spice. Firm, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity provide age-worthy support. Drink 2028–2043.”
98 points, Kerin O'Keefe, kerinokeefe.com
“The 2018 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is quite the powerhouse. Sage, menthol, licorice, cloves, dried flowers, scorched earth, leather and gravel infuse the San Giuseppe with all of its classic signatures.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The organic 2018 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is the big gun from vintner Alfio Cavallotto and his merry team in Castiglione Falletto. This wine is impossibly complex and deep with savory knots that are tied into fabric or rich dark fruit. The bouquet opens to blackberry, plum cola, dried herb, spice and a lingering floral note of lilac or violet.”
96 points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva  Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (3000ml)
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018

Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018

Vigna San Giuseppe is a 3.7-hectare parcel on a steep slope behind the cantina. It has long been considered the sweet spot for this vineyard, consistently delivering one of the region’s greatest Barolos. You get the best of everything: altitude, but not too much; excellent drainage, but enough water retention thanks to the clay, so the vines don’t stress in dry conditions; and a complex mixture of soils. These soils include blue-tinted clays, which bring power, limestone, adding freshness and mineral drive and sand, that delivers the prettiness and perfume. Once you add especially small bunches from the 60-year-old vines, unique clonal material and southwest exposure, the stars align to produce something magnificent.

Clearly one of the wines of the vintage, this 2018 spent 28 days on skins followed by five years in large cask. Where the Riserva Vignolo has a little more vertical lift and minerality in this vintage, the Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is more about ballast and texture.


"Wild red berry, violet dark spice, forest floor, tobacco and new leather are just some of the aromas you'll find on the gorgeous 2018 Bricco Boschis San Giuseppe Riserva. Still young and tight but already balanced and utterly delicious, the full-bodied palate delivers layers of raspberry compote, ripe cherry, star anise, blood orange and baking spice. Firm, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity provide age-worthy support. Drink 2028–2043."
98 points, Kerin O'Keefe, kerinokeefe.com
“The 2018 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is quite the powerhouse. Sage, menthol, licorice, cloves, dried flowers, scorched earth, leather and gravel infuse the San Giuseppe with all of its classic signatures.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The organic 2018 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is the big gun from vintner Alfio Cavallotto and his merry team in Castiglione Falletto. This wine is impossibly complex and deep with savory knots that are tied into fabric or rich dark fruit. The bouquet opens to blackberry, plum cola, dried herb, spice and a lingering floral note of lilac or violet.”
96 points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (1500ml)

Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (1500ml)

Vigna San Giuseppe is a 3.7-hectare parcel on a steep slope behind the cantina. It has long been considered the sweet spot for this vineyard, consistently delivering one of the region’s greatest Barolos. You get the best of everything: altitude, but not too much; excellent drainage, but enough water retention thanks to the clay, so the vines don’t stress in dry conditions; and a complex mixture of soils. These soils include blue-tinted clays, which bring power, limestone, adding freshness and mineral drive and sand, that delivers the prettiness and perfume. Once you add especially small bunches from the 60-year-old vines, unique clonal material and southwest exposure, the stars align to produce something magnificent.

Clearly one of the wines of the vintage, this 2018 spent 28 days on skins followed by five years in large cask. Where the Riserva Vignolo has a little more vertical lift and minerality in this vintage, the Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is more about ballast and texture. 

 


"Wild red berry, violet dark spice, forest floor, tobacco and new leather are just some of the aromas you'll find on the gorgeous 2018 Bricco Boschis San Giuseppe Riserva. Still young and tight but already balanced and utterly delicious, the full-bodied palate delivers layers of raspberry compote, ripe cherry, star anise, blood orange and baking spice. Firm, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity provide age-worthy support. Drink 2028–2043.”
98 points, Kerin O'Keefe, kerinokeefe.com
“The 2018 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is quite the powerhouse. Sage, menthol, licorice, cloves, dried flowers, scorched earth, leather and gravel infuse the San Giuseppe with all of its classic signatures.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The organic 2018 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is the big gun from vintner Alfio Cavallotto and his merry team in Castiglione Falletto. This wine is impossibly complex and deep with savory knots that are tied into fabric or rich dark fruit. The bouquet opens to blackberry, plum cola, dried herb, spice and a lingering floral note of lilac or violet.”
96 points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2018 (1500ml)
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2018

Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2018

In 1989, the Cavallotto family acquired 60% of the historic Vignolo Cru and was the first to bottle this Cru as a single-vineyard wine. Cavallotto’s Vignolo comes from a 1.9-hectare parcel in the Cru, which forms a ridge of southwest-facing vines, along with Codana and Monprivato, that lie between 60 and 80 metres lower than Bricco Boschis. The estate’s only neighbour here is Paulo Scavino.

Vignolo’s soils have some of the highest limestone content in Castiglione Falletto. Cavallotto’s vines were planted between 1948 and 1966, and vine age combines with the terroir and organic farming to give gentle structure, fruit purity and seductive texture. The 2018 spent 25 days on skins, followed by five years in large, neutral cask. This is in no way a lesser wine than the Vigna San Giuseppe; it is simply a different expression of Castiglione Falletto. Generally speaking, Vignolo is the more approachable and youthfully expressive of Cavallotto’s two Riservas, though its cellaring potential should not be underestimated!

“Aromas of rose, woodland berry, underbrush and spice form the fragrant, expressive nose on the fantastic 2018 Vignolo Riserva. The smooth, delicious palate mirrors the nose, delivering fleshy raspberry, wild strawberry, truffle and baking spice before a minty finish. Tightly woven, polished tannins offer enveloping support while fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. While this already almost approachable, it will age beautifully for year.”
96 points, Kerin O'Keefe, kerinokeefe.com
“[The wine] delivers the focus and straight-shooting concentration that we can expect of Castiglione Falletto…The wine's core of fruit remains on the dark side, but you also get pretty lift and verticality with tart berry aromas, shaved mineral, cola and mint (like when you walk through the vineyard rows in summer). The wine is amply structured and fleshed out and delivers texture. The Riserva Vignolo is my favorite of Cavallotto's wines this year.”
97 points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
“Lustrous and just mid ruby with orange tinges. Complex and monolithic. A deep layer of fruit hidden under black pepper, stones and saline notes. Finely ground tannin and succulent acidity wrapping up embryonic fruit. Gorgeous balance and length. More approachable than in other years. but this is far from ready.”
17.5 points, Walter Speller, Jancisrobinson.com
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Vignolo 2018

“Cavallotto may very well be the greatest Barolo producer few people have ever heard of, something that continues to mystify me. Truth is, it isn’t just the Barolos here that are impressive, the entry-level wines are every bit as delicious and well-priced.” Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

"Today, Cavallotto’s powerful yet graceful Barolos are no longer castaways afloat in a sea of internationally styled wines: instead, they are amongst the Langhe’s most distinct bottlings and have become a benchmark for impeccable Barolos that demonstrate tipicità, Barolos that respect both Nebbiolo and their terroir" 
Kerin O’Keefe, The World of Fine Wine

“The 2018 Barolos I tasted for this year's preview left me elated, energised and excited. With the colour of crushed rubies, the wines are extremely elegant, perfumed and charged with super-fine tannins. Their transparency accentuates in a clear-cut way the distinction between crus and villages and makes these wines almost ephemeral – Barolo like you have never seen before.” Walter Speller, JancisRobinson.com

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