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Cavallotto

Benchmark Castiglione Falletto: Good Things Come to Those Who Wait

Exclusive owner and producer of the famed Bricco Boschis Cru, Cavallotto is situated in the heart of Barolo’s Castiglione Falletto commune. From here the Cavallotto family craft a set of wines that are as traditional as they are delicious. Castiglione Falletto’s sandy/calcareous clays combine with Cavallotto’s meticulous viticulture and low yields to produce wines that offer both bewitching depth and texture as well as the classical structure that plucks away at the heartstrings of Barolo devotees.

While the showpiece of the family’s vineyards is the monopole Bricco Boschis, there is also the adjoining Vignolo Cru that also produces outstanding Barolo. Nonetheless, the majority of the Estate’s bottlings come from the majestic Bricco Boschis, at the foot of which can be found both the family home and cantina. Facing south/southeast, this sun-drenched hill has long been considered one of Barolo’s blue-ribbon vineyards. The entire planted area covers some 8.8-hectares, yet because of variation in soil composition, elevation and aspect, the Cavallotto’s parcellate the site into three subzones; Vigne Colle Sud-Ovest, Punta Marcello and Vigna San Giuseppe. The last of these is also bottled as a single Cru Riserva. The densely planted, old vines grow here at an altitude of 300-360 metres and the soils—a patchwork of yellow, white and grey calcareous clays, interwoven with sand and sandstone—are as varied as the vineyard’s myriad exposures.

The Cavallotto’s staunch belief is that wine should be allowed to make itself, rather than be driven by the market. It’s a belief we passionately agree with.

Cavallotto blood runs deep in Castiglione Falletto and while the Estate remains steeped in tradition, it is also one of the region’s true pioneers. It was under the stewardship of Olivio and Guido Cavallotto, in the 1970s that this Estate began managing their vineyards organically, inviting ridicule from their neighbours. The brothers were also the first to interplant grasses between rows and to introduce natural pest management, not to mention restricted yields (today the yearly average is a low 32-38 hl/hl). 

This was also one of the first Barolo producers to vinify and bottle their own wine, beginning in the 1940s. The wines continue to be fermented using indigenous yeast and there isn't a whiff of small oak in this surgically clean cantina. All the reds we ship, save for the Dolcetto (which rests only in tank) are aged exclusively in mammoth-sized Slovenian botti. Today it’s the fifth generation, Alfio, Giuseppe and Laura who continue their family’s rich tradition, with the same attention to detail in both the vineyards and cellars. Much more comfortable amongst the vines than in the public eye, these humble siblings are growers in the purest sense, a fact that is reflected in the quality of every Cavallotto bottle.

Deep, soulful and classically styled Barolo is the name of the game here. All Cavallotto wines seem to unfurl in the glass, slowly picking up levels of textural sensuality and minute detail as they breathe in air—the longer you spend with them, the more they reveal. Even the Dolcetto and Barbera come from the same slopes as the Nebbiolo’s and are cut from similar, old-school cloth. The style of the wines reflects the vintage, the superb sites and the Cavallotto family’s exacting viticulture and traditionalist winemaking approach.

Currently Available

Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot 2021

Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot 2021

Cavallotto’s single vineyard Dolcetto Vigna Scot hails from 2.3 hectares of 30-year-old vines located within Castiglione Falletto’s legendary Monprivato vineyard. These Dolcetto vines face east, meaning it’s a cooler and later-ripening part of the vineyard. On these great soils, the mature vines, low yields and traditional winemaking result in a layered, deep and remarkably serious Dolcetto. While the vast majority of Langhe Dolcetto is raised in stainless steel, the Cavallotto family prefers to use cement tank and 5,000-litre Slavonian botti. This helps to avoid Dolcetto’s tendency for reduction and polishes its tannins. As always, this is a Nebbiolo drinker’s Dolcetto (if you know what we mean) and one that punches well above its weight. Perfectly ripe and with brooding fruit depth, it’s a deep, nuanced, and soulful Dolcetto with layers of fruit shot through by bright acidity and refreshing tannins. The length is striking, too. A triumph.

As always, this is a Nebbiolo drinker’s Dolcetto (if you know what we mean) and one that punches well above its weight. Perfectly ripe and with brooding fruit depth, it’s a deep, nuanced, and soulful Dolcetto with layers of fruit shot through by bright acidity and refreshing tannins. The length is striking, too. A triumph.

"Dark cherries, almonds, plums, violets, it’s fruit driven with fine tannins, stony feel and straight up delicious."
92 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front
Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot 2021
Cavallotto Barbera d'Alba Vigna del Cuculo 2020

Cavallotto Barbera d'Alba Vigna del Cuculo 2020

Cavallotto’s Vigna del Cuculo is a major league Barbera from a parcel of 50-plus-year-old vines on the western side of Bricco Boschis. This parcel is named after the cuckoo bird (cuculo)—we’re not sure why and neither is Alfio Cavallotto! The unique power and ridiculous quality of this wine can be attributed to the mature vines, low yields, and powerful terroir of the Bricco Boschis. The western aspect and the preponderance of limestone in the soil here temper Barbera’s natural acidity, and Alfio Cavallotto explains that this ‘Barolo’ terroir contributes to an aromatic range in Barbera that is closer to Nebbiolo.The winemaking is also distinctive, with up to 18 days on skins (a long time for Barbera) and then aging for 24 months in the same, mature Slavonian casks as the Nebbiolo wines. 2020 is a wonderfully balanced year for this benchmark wine. It’s got that core of pure, sweet and ripe black fruit so particular to this Barbera, here infused with a nuance of ink, violet and wet stones. The tannins are supple and elegant, the acidity fresh but folded into the wine’s delicious flesh. It finishes with unusual finesse and complexity for the variety.

2020 is a wonderfully balanced year for this benchmark wine. It’s got that core of pure, sweet and ripe black fruit so particular to this Barbera, here infused with a nuance of ink, violet and wet stones. The tannins are supple and elegant, the acidity fresh but folded into the wine’s delicious flesh. It finishes with unusual finesse and complexity for the variety.

Cavallotto Barbera d'Alba Vigna del Cuculo 2020
Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot 2022

Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot 2022

Cavallotto’s single-vineyard Dolcetto Vigna Scot hails from 2.3 hectares of 30-year-old vines within Castiglione Falletto’s legendary Monprivato vineyard. These Dolcetto vines face east, meaning it’s a cooler, later-ripening part of the vineyard. The mature vines, low yields and traditional winemaking on these great soils result in a layered, deep, remarkably serious Dolcetto.While the vast majority of Langhe Dolcetto is raised in stainless steel, the Cavallotto family prefers to use cement tank and 5,000-litre Slavonian botti. This polishes Dolcetto’s tannins and helps to avoid its tendency for reduction. As always, this is a Nebbiolo drinker’s Dolcetto (if you know what we mean), and one that punches well above its weight. It has a juicy, mouthwatering texture bursting with vibrant cherry and spice and cosseted by palate-friendly, polished tannins. Already open for business, yet so lovely and fresh, it is another sophisticated effort that is as deep and multifaceted an expression of this variety as you are likely to find.

“The 2022 Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna Scot is plump, juicy and easygoing, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Crushed red berry fruit, flowers and sweet spice all grace this supple, mid-weight offering from Cavallotto.”
88 points, Antonio Galloni
Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot 2022
Cavallotto Barbera d'Alba Vigna del Cuculo 2021

Cavallotto Barbera d'Alba Vigna del Cuculo 2021

Cavallotto’s Vigna del Cuculo is a major-league Barbera from a parcel of 50-plus-year-old vines on the western side of Bricco Boschis. This parcel is named after the cuckoo bird (cuculo)—we’re not sure why, and neither is Alfio Cavallotto! This wine's unique power and ridiculous quality can be attributed to the mature vines, low yields and powerful terroir of the Bricco Boschis. The western aspect and the preponderance of limestone temper Barbera’s natural acidity, and Alfio Cavallotto explains that this ‘Barolo’ terroir contributes to an aromatic range in Barbera that is closer to Nebbiolo.The winemaking is also distinctive, with up to 18 days on skins (a long time for Barbera) and then aging for 20 months in the same mature Slavonian casks as the Nebbiolo wines. 2021 is a wonderfully fleshy and perfumed year for this benchmark wine. It’s got that core of pure, sweet, plummy fruit so particular to this Barbera, here infused with nuances of anise, dried flower and earthy minerals. The tannins are supple and elegant, the acidity ripe yet racy, and the wine finishes with unusual depth, finesse and complexity for the variety. Equally deep, complex and textural—not all Barbera is created equal.

“The Cavallotto 2021 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Vigna Cuculo has something a little exotic like toasted cumin seed or sweet cinnamon stick that pops from the bouquet. The wine’s core of fruit shows dark cherries or crème de cassis, and these come through especially well on the palate. This wine is a tight little package that shows elegance, and it delivers on all fronts: concentration, intensity and balance. The fruit also shows good length. Fruit comes from 50-year-old vines in the Bricco Boschis cru.”
93 points, Monica Larner
Cavallotto Barbera d'Alba Vigna del Cuculo 2021
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017

Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017

The Bricco Boschis Cru is one of Castiglione Falletto’s most profound vineyards: an amphitheatre-shaped site producing this estate’s most emblematic Barolo wines. Facing south/southeast, this sun-drenched hill has long been considered one of Barolo’s blue-ribbon vineyards. The entire planted area covers some 8.8 hectares. Yet, because of variations in soil composition, elevation and aspect, Cavallotto parcellates the site into three subzones: Vigne Colle Sud-Ovest, Punta Marcello and Vigna San Giuseppe. The last of these is also bottled as a single Cru Riserva, which we have here. The densely planted old vines grow at 300-360 metres altitude, and the soils—a patchwork of yellow, white and grey calcareous clays interwoven with sand and sandstone—are as varied as the vineyard’s myriad exposures.Vigna San Giuseppe is a 3.7-hectare parcel on a steep slope behind the cantina. It has long been considered the sweet spot for this vineyard, consistently delivering one of the region’s greatest Barolos. You get the best of everything: altitude (but not too much); excellent drainage (but enough water retention thanks to the clay, so the vines don’t stress in dry conditions); and a complex mixture of soils, including blue-tinted clays (for power), limestone (freshness and mineral drive) and sand (prettiness and perfume). The stars align to produce something magnificent once you add especially small bunches from the 60-year-old vines, unique clonal material and southwest exposure. This 2017 spent 28 days on skins followed by five years in large cask. Made from half a crop this year, it’s a powerful yet seductive Barolo for which greatness is guaranteed.

“Organic fruit for this wine comes from a small parcel within the hilltop Bricco Boschis cru with 60-year-old vines. The Cavallotto 2017 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe shows ample texture and softness with layers of dark fruit, plum, dried cherry, baked terracotta and spice. This vintage delivers more accessible fruit overall, and the Cavallotto house style delivers elegance and depth.”
96+ points, Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
“The 2017 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is redolent of dark fruits, leather, incense, tobacco, lavender and dried herbs. This strapping, muscular Barolo has a ton to offer. All it needs is to soften a bit, and whether or not that happens is something of an open question at this stage.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The dark style of Alfio Cavallotto is, if possible, enhanced here by the natural style of the vintage. This is a cask sample, still in oak and not bottled yet. It has an intense smoky woodland nose, with a lot of mineral earthiness along with liquorice, graphite, tar and earthy dark cherry. Large, powerful and extracted tannins dominate the palate, with crisp, brilliant acidity.”
96 points, Aldo Fiordelli, Decanter
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 2017
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Historical Barolo producer founded by the Cavallotto family in 1928.

• The estate is run by the fourth generation and is the sole owner and producer of the Bricco Boschis Cru in Castiglione Falletto. The family also owns 60% of the nearby Vignolo Cru.

• The estate farms 25 hectares of densely planted vines—half of which are dedicated to Barolo production—in mostly sandy/calcareous clay soils between 300 and 350 metres of elevation.

• Farming is organic, grasses are planted between rows, and yields are kept extremely low.

• The estate favours long, semi-submerged-cap macerations, and the wines mature in very large, old Slavonian oak.

• The range includes DOC and DOCG wines, all from estate fruit: Dolcetto, Barbera, Langhe Nebbiolo and a range of Barolos.

• The Cavallotto Barolos are sold on allocation.



IN THE PRESS

“Cavallotto does an excellent job of presenting the genuine side of Nebbiolo no matter what the price point of the wine.”
Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate

“Cavallotto may very well be the greatest Barolo producer few people have ever heard of, something that continues to mystify me. Truth is, it isn’t just the Barolos here that are impressive, the entry-level wines are every bit as delicious and well-priced…Readers who appreciate a firm, classic style of Barolo will want to spend some time getting to know Cavallotto.” Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

“These are classic bottles to the core, the result of rigorous management in the vineyard and long maceration in the cellar.” Gambero Rosso 

Country

Italy

Primary Region

Piemonte

People

Winemakers: Alfio, Giuseppe and Laura Cavallotto

Availability

National

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