Sometimes you’re judged on the wines you don’t make as much as those you do. Dominik Huber and Tatjana Peceric released only a single wine from the 2020 vintage, a year blighted by heat and disease pressure. Shackled by Covid restrictions, Terroir al Límit was also deprived of the workforce needed to battle the heavy mildew outbreaks. Ultimately, Huber and Peceric picked their battles, focusing their efforts on protecting their Arbossar vineyard, the site closest to their base in Torroja. That wine, as it turned out, was gold standard. Thankfully, 2021 sees the return of Terroir al Límit’s full deck of wines. And what a vintage it is. A cooler and wetter ‘northern’ growing season allowed Huber to harvest some of his lowest potential alcohol levels yet with excellent flavour and intensity. This year’s release includes some of the most elegant, pure-fruited and mineral-etched wines we have tasted from this producer. Marrying compelling finesse, intensity and lifted freshness, the reds are a Priorat masterclass in transparency and balance. Looking out from Huber’s winery over these wild Catalonian peaks and crags, it can be hard to fathom how such silk and freshness could be drawn from such an unforgiving, rocky landscape. The whites, on the other hand, are easier to imagine. These strikingly pure, chiselled wines taste like those same rocks have been pulverised in a blender and sent to the bottle. Huber and Peceric are obsessed with purity, and since 2021 every one of their wines has been raised exclusively in concrete vessels. Indeed, Terroir al Límit recently sold its entire oak inventory. Oak has never played a defining role here, and experience with the Montsant project, Terroir Sense Fronteres—wines that have never seen any oak—has swayed this grower’s view. “We came to see that our wines respond better to concrete,” Huber explains. “They are crunchier and more vital. It’s not necessarily the same for other growers, but it works for us.” Amen. Alongside this progression, the growers now bottle their wines earlier to capture as much vibrancy and energy as possible. The resulting wine are some of the most thrilling on the world stage.