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Corofin

Artisanal Marlborough from a Winemaker’s Winemaker
Corofin

As we write, Mike Paterson is somewhere deep in Sydney showing a terrific set of artisanal Marlborough wines from the 2023 vintage. Fortunately for Paterson and his growers, Marlborough’s Southern Valleys were spared the torrid weather events that blighted Hawkes Bay and Canterbury. To paraphrase Dickens, it was the worst of times, it was the best of times: “as far as a perfect harvest goes, [it was excellent] from a growing season perspective,” explained Mike, “if I could dial up 2023 each year, that'd be the one.”

 

Harvested a little earlier than in 2022, the Corofin Chardonnays are typically lucid and pure, with a lovely savoury streak drawn from both their clay soils and long cellar maturation. Even the blended Chardonnay spent two winters on lees, building complexity and freshness. The 2023 Pinots are long and lithe with transparency and detail. “We’re seeing just the perfect brightness as well as fine physiological ripeness,” said Mike, “they just have a little bit more energy about them in their youth.” Corofin has emerged as a paragon address for Pinot and Chardonnay in New Zealand, and the new releases will only enhance its reputation. 

The Wines

Meltwater Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024

Meltwater Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024

Organic. As you would expect from a producer of Corofin’s calibre, Meltwater’s Marlborough Sauvignon hits all the right notes, with considerably more texture and interest than this category typically delivers. Based on low-cropping, certified-organic blocks in central Wairau Valley and the Omaka Valley, this wine gets the Rolls Royce treatment: hand-harvest, wild ferment and eight months on lees in tank. It’s a gorgeous release for this label, with ripe citrus and stone fruit moderated by tangy energy, supple texture and joyous drinkability. Beautifully done. A rose amongst thorns. 

Meltwater Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024
Corofin Marlborough Chardonnay 2023

Corofin Marlborough Chardonnay 2023

Organic. This year, the blend for Corofin’s ‘village’ wine comprised fruit from the Brawn Vineyard, a mere three kilometres from the ocean (60%) and the Wrekin Vineyard occupying its own small locality tucked into the foothills of Marlborough’s Southern Valleys (40%). The Brawn Vineyard lies on Kaiapoi silt loam over pea gravel and is home to an old-vine Mendoza clone that is now rare in Marlborough.

Driven by precision from Wrekin and salinity from Brawn, the 2023 fermented on high solids and aged for 18 months in 500-litre seasoned French oak puncheons and two stainless barrels. It’s a wine of pulpy intensity and energy, weaving cool citrus and fleshy lime—and more nutty complexity—through layers of silken fruit. We love how this wine achieves such sophisticated texture without any sense of heaviness.

"This has a complex, flinty nose of dried lemons, beeswax, spices, peaches and wet stones. It’s tense and structured with a medium to full body, offering steady acidity and a phenolic underlay. Textured and long. From organically grown grapes."
92 points, James Sucking, JamesSuckling.com
Corofin Marlborough Chardonnay 2023
Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Chardonnay 2023

Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Chardonnay 2023

Organic. Planted in 2002, The Wrekin Vineyard occupies its own small locality tucked into the foothills of Marlborough’s Southern Valleys. It’s a significant site for Corofin, and the region in general, providing both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of “exceptional individuality and quality,” according to Mike Paterson.

Owned by Jan and Andrew Johns and farmed by Jeremy Highland, Wrekin sits in the lee of the Southern Valley scarps on clay-rich soils laid over greywacke mother rock. Orientated northeast and planted at 4000 vines per hectare (to moderate vigour), it’s also one of the highest vineyards in the valley, producing archetypal cool-climate fruit that balances fleshy texture with racy drive.

Hand-harvested on March 19th and raised in 500-litre seasoned French oak puncheons, the wines aged for two winters in the cellar building texture and freshness from it’s lees. Of the two single-vineyard Chardonnays this year, Wrekin is more knife-edged, with white stone fruit and Meyer lemon exuberance pulsating through the chalky finish.

“White nectarine, poached pear, citrus, almond and white flowers.. It’s tight with bright grapefruity acidity and chalky texture, but also has flavour with almond cream, stone fruit, a green apple twang, and some savoury and saline characters on a finish of excellent length. Such a lovely and distinctive wine here.”
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
"Attractive nose of peaches, preserved lemons, fresh nuts, acacia blossoms, mustard seeds, spices and seashells. Very clean and pristine, almost weightless, yet it’s full, broad and firm in structure. Racy and energetic, with a long finish that lingers and a tense, restrained flinty note. Drink or hold."
96 points, James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Chardonnay 2023
Corofin Brawn Vineyard Chardonnay 2023

Corofin Brawn Vineyard Chardonnay 2023

Organic. Sitting in the lee of the Wither Hills to the southeast of the Wairau Valley floor, the Brawn Vineyard lies on Kaiapoi silt loam over pea gravel, closer to the ocean than Corofin’s other sites. It’s home to an old-vine Mendoza clone that is now rare in Marlborough, “most of the old blocks have been ripped out and replaced with Sauvignon,” sighs Paterson. It’s the thick skins of this old-vine fruit that Paterson credits with his wine’s succulent extract and spice tones. In addition, both Glover and Paterson have identified a unique saline/umami note to the Chardonnay from this site. “It’s a wonderful block to work with,” says Mike Paterson.

This year, Brawn was hand-harvested two weeks after Wrekin and pressed at a snail’s pace to extract all this coastal vineyard’s striking fruit intensity.  Of the two single vineyards this year, Brawn is again the more textural and exuberant; the nose brings more spice and the mouthcoating palate is layered with notes of yellow fruit, wild fennel and blossom all leaning into a chiselled finish. Two winters aging on lees brings composure and brightness. This is elite-level Chardonnay.

“A juicy, peachy, spicy wine here with some lemon curd richness, grilled nuts too, though will it’s quite fruity, it’s also distinctly saline and umami, with a light fino character both to flavour and tangy acid cut. It’s fine and dusty in texture, bursts though the finish with a soft of electric zing and finishes long. A fascinating wine. Really quite something.”
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
"This shows creaminess, with aromas of apples, cashew nuts and touches of yogurt and beeswax. Full-bodied, tense and very minerally, with a spicy rosemary note and a touch of olives. Very attractive. Drink or hold"
95 points, James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
Corofin Brawn Vineyard Chardonnay 2023
Corofin Marlborough Pinot Noir 2023

Corofin Marlborough Pinot Noir 2023

Rather than casting the net wide to unknown and unproven sources, Mike Paterson composed this ‘village’ wine from his most prized vineyards―the sites responsible for his exceptional single-vineyard bottlings. This year’s release combined fruit from the Wrekin (55%) and Settlement (45%) Vineyards in Omaka Valley, harvested two days apart. Paterson loves the combination of these two sites, finding harmony in the elegant, red-fruited suppleness of Settlement and the brooding, savoury weight of Wrekin.

It's not hard to understand why Corofin’s regional blend shine so brightly. The quality of the vineyards is one thing, as is the crafting, which includes handpicking, natural fermentation, gentle extraction and long lees aging in oak. Bottled at 13%, it’s a delicate and succulent Corofin Pinot laden with vivid red fruits. There’s a whisp of smoke cosseted by fine cherry-ripe acidity and refined structure. Lovely.

"This has an attractive nose of red berries, blueberries, grapefruit peel and savory nuances alongside flinty, wet-stone minerality. Medium-bodied, crunchy and brisk on the palate, with lively, energetic tension. From organically grown grapes."
93 points, James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
Corofin Marlborough Pinot Noir 2023
Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023

Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023

Organic. Planted in 2002, The Wrekin Vineyard occupies its own small locality tucked into the foothills of Marlborough’s Southern Valleys, a place the John’s family refer to a Fairhall Valey.  It’s a significant site for Corofin, and the region in general, providing both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of “exceptional individuality and quality,” according to Mike Paterson. Owned by Jan and Andrew Johns and farmed by Jeremy Highland, Wrekin sits in the lee of the Southern Valley scarps on clay-rich soils laid over greywacke mother rock.

Oriented northeast and planted at 4000 vines per hectare (to moderate vigour), it’s also one of the highest vineyards in the valley, producing fruit that is often the last to be harvested. Mike Paterson explains that this site gives him Corofin’s most dense and dark-fruited expression. The gorgeous, svelte 2023 is, then, true to form; a wonderfully layered fusion of sweet-toned, wild berry fruit, herbal lift and delicate oak spice. The nicely sculpted tannins draw the flavours into a super finish. It’s still in its cocoon phase and has everything required to age gracefully for a decade.

“Red fruits, almond, dried roses, biscuit spice and tobacco. It’s medium-bodied, red fruit, a quiet and subdued wine in a way, balanced acidity, again quite nutty, with something of a tacky feel to tannin, savoury and grainy to close with good length. Stylish.”
93 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
"Very minerally and tense, this offers vibrant red berries, orange peel, iodine and hints of seashells on the nose. The medium- to full-bodied, smooth and almost weightless palate is tense and mouthwatering, offering fine tannins and persistent acidity. Focused and fresh."
94 points, James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023
Corofin Settlement Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023

Corofin Settlement Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023

Organic. The 20-year-old Settlement Vineyard is located on the slopes of the Omaka Valley to the south of Marlborough’s Wairau Plains. This organic-certified site is owned by Dog Point and is managed by gun viticulturist Nigel Sowman. The fruit for this bottling hails from a tiny sliver of vines at the top of the vineyard’s east slope, a clay-rich parcel planted at 4,000 vines per hectare (all 777 clone). Typically, the Settlement fruit is among the first to be picked and tends to sit in the red-fruited, youthfully radiant end of the Corofin single-vineyard spectrum. That said, Mike Paterson tells us he’s witnessed a significant evolution in the phenolic structure of the fruit in recent years.

This is classic Settlement. Picked on 14th March and cropped at 40 hl/ha, it’s already super impressive and loaded with succulent red berry and sour cherry fruit backed up by blue florals, forest floor and a streak of brown spice. It’s so nuanced, refined and powdery; that Paterson weaves this clay-rich site into something so finessed is the sign of a great winemaker. Lots of whole berries, delicate excitation—jugotage!—and slow winemaking may provide the answers.

“Cherry, slightly twitchy and resinous, orange peel and spice. Medium-bodied, a little earthy and autumnal, quite dry in tannin, nutty and savoury with a finish of good length.”
92 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
"Complex and aromatic on the nose, this offers sour cherries, citrus peel and hints of lavender, rosemary and iron. Beautifully tense and focused on the palate, showing crunchy fruit yet with a firm and compact structure and bright minerality, finishing dusty and long. Already very attractive, but will age well."
96 points, James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
Corofin Settlement Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023

“For me, Corofin is one of Marlborough’s (and New Zealand’s) most exciting wine projects. The people behind it are Mike and Anna Paterson, and the idea is to tell the new Marlborough story: interesting, organically farmed terroirs seen through the lens of Chardonnayand Pinot Noir.” Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak

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