As we write, Mike Paterson is somewhere deep in Sydney showing a terrific set of artisanal Marlborough wines from the 2023 vintage. Fortunately for Paterson and his growers, Marlborough’s Southern Valleys were spared the torrid weather events that blighted Hawkes Bay and Canterbury. To paraphrase Dickens, it was the worst of times, it was the best of times: “as far as a perfect harvest goes, [it was excellent] from a growing season perspective,” explained Mike, “if I could dial up 2023 each year, that'd be the one.” Harvested a little earlier than in 2022, the Corofin Chardonnays are typically lucid and pure, with a lovely savoury streak drawn from both their clay soils and long cellar maturation. Even the blended Chardonnay spent two winters on lees, building complexity and freshness. The 2023 Pinots are long and lithe with transparency and detail. “We’re seeing just the perfect brightness as well as fine physiological ripeness,” said Mike, “they just have a little bit more energy about them in their youth.” Corofin has emerged as a paragon address for Pinot and Chardonnay in New Zealand, and the new releases will only enhance its reputation.