“This pure Xarel-lo wine is gold in colour, and smells of the Catalan summer hills: fennel seeds and leaves, dried wild flowers and grasses, with a hint of citrus zest in the background. It’s deep, concentrated and commanding, its fine textural wealth created in part by the seething mousse, but which also seems to hint at the carbonate drench you find in Vichy Catalan mineral water, too: a remarkable facet of fine sparkling wine here. Rich, elemental, limpid and gratifying: a wine that you could sip slowly, letting the gas depart from the glass as you did so, and then enjoy it to no lesser an extent in still guise a few hours later.” Andrew Jefford on the 2005 Turó d'en Mota Our readers know a great deal about what goes into crafting outstanding sparkling wine. This pioneering Catalan family tick all those boxes, and probably more. The quality of Recaredo’s wines and practices should be compared with Champagne’s greatest growers, rather than producers closer to home—but let’s not go there today. While any one of Recaredo's wines might claim to be "Spain’s greatest sparkling wine," that title sits with a remarkable vineyard and mould-breaking cuvée called Turó d’en Mota. Described by Tom Hewson as “one of the world’s most remarkable sparkling wines”, Turó d’en Mota comes from a unique site within Recaredo’s Serral del Vell vineyard at 300 metres' altitude. It’s made from just under one hectare of low-yielding, goblet-trained Xarel·lo vines from 1940 that sit on the north side of the eponymous hill. The soils, farmed biodynamically since 2010, contain calcareous lumps and quite a bit of limestone swashed down from the Serra del Mar and the Serra Catalana Mountain ranges. From these lean, rocky soils and the mature vines, winemaker Ton Mata is searching for the truest expression of the site’s mineral terroir. Cropped at tiny yields that rarely get past 25 hl/ha, the wine fermented in barrel and rested on lees over winter with occasional stirring. It then aged in bottle on lees for at least 12 years—150 months for this 2011 release—before the first disgorgement. In a good year, Recaredo only makes 200-250 cases. The wine’s laser-focussed, earth-to-glass personality reminds us of a mature bottle of Agrapart’s stellar Mineral cuvée. Or rather, if Pascal Agrapart were to make a sparkling wine in the Penedès, it might taste something like Turó d’en Mota. There’s a thrilling, deep-set mineral character alongside sleek, elastic texture and, despite the age, terrific freshness. Not to mention the remarkable length of flavour. Even for those well-versed in great sparkling wine, tasting Turó d’en Mota for the first time is an epiphany. The Turó d’en Mota ages like Peter Pan. To test his top wine’s capacity for aging even further, Ton Mata established an Enoteca cellar in 1999. The 2001 release, disgorged after 264 months(!), is the second release and the first Spanish sparkling wine to attain a 100-point score from The Wine Advocate. Recaredo disgorges just 150 bottles of each release, which partly accounts for the price. But then again, this is one of the world’s great sparkling wines that has spent 22 years aging in Recaredo’s cellars.