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Recaredo

Turó d'en Mota: 100-point Sparkling Wine From “The Romanée-Conti of Penedès.” [Decanter]
Recaredo

“This pure Xarel-lo wine is gold in colour, and smells of the Catalan summer hills: fennel seeds and leaves, dried wild flowers and grasses, with a hint of citrus zest in the background.  It’s deep, concentrated and commanding, its fine textural wealth created in part by the seething mousse, but which also seems to hint at the carbonate drench you find in Vichy Catalan mineral water, too: a remarkable facet of fine sparkling wine here.  Rich, elemental, limpid and gratifying: a wine that you could sip slowly, letting the gas depart from the glass as you did so, and then enjoy it to no lesser an extent in still guise a few hours later.” Andrew Jefford on the 2005 Turó d'en Mota
 
Our readers know a great deal about what goes into crafting outstanding sparkling wine. This pioneering Catalan family tick all those boxes, and probably more. The quality of Recaredo’s wines and practices should be compared with Champagne’s greatest growers, rather than producers closer to home—but let’s not go there today.
 
While any one of Recaredo's wines might claim to be "Spain’s greatest sparkling wine," that title sits with a remarkable vineyard and mould-breaking cuvée called Turó d’en Mota. Described by Tom Hewson as “one of the world’s most remarkable sparkling wines”, Turó d’en Mota comes from a unique site within Recaredo’s Serral del Vell vineyard at 300 metres' altitude. It’s made from just under one hectare of low-yielding, goblet-trained Xarel·lo vines from 1940 that sit on the north side of the eponymous hill.
 
The soils, farmed biodynamically since 2010, contain calcareous lumps and quite a bit of limestone swashed down from the Serra del Mar and the Serra Catalana Mountain ranges. From these lean, rocky soils and the mature vines, winemaker Ton Mata is searching for the truest expression of the site’s mineral terroir. Cropped at tiny yields that rarely get past 25 hl/ha, the wine fermented in barrel and rested on lees over winter with occasional stirring. It then aged in bottle on lees for at least 12 years—150 months for this 2011 release—before the first disgorgement. In a good year, Recaredo only makes 200-250 cases.
 
The wine’s laser-focussed, earth-to-glass personality reminds us of a mature bottle of Agrapart’s stellar Mineral cuvée. Or rather, if Pascal Agrapart were to make a sparkling wine in the Penedès, it might taste something like Turó d’en Mota. There’s a thrilling, deep-set mineral character alongside sleek, elastic texture and, despite the age, terrific freshness. Not to mention the remarkable length of flavour. Even for those well-versed in great sparkling wine, tasting Turó d’en Mota for the first time is an epiphany.
 
The Turó d’en Mota ages like Peter Pan. To test his top wine’s capacity for aging even further, Ton Mata established an Enoteca cellar in 1999. The 2001 release, disgorged after 264 months(!), is the second release and the first Spanish sparkling wine to attain a 100-point score from The Wine Advocate. Recaredo disgorges just 150 bottles of each release, which partly accounts for the price. But then again, this is one of the world’s great sparkling wines that has spent 22 years aging in Recaredo’s cellars.

The Wines

Recaredo Corpinnat Turó d'en Mota de Recaredo Brut Nature 2011 (Disg. Oct 24)

Recaredo Corpinnat Turó d'en Mota de Recaredo Brut Nature 2011 (Disg. Oct 24)

Biodynamic. Described by Tom Hewson as “one of the world’s most remarkable sparkling wines”, the Turó d’en Mota cuvée is sourced from a unique site within the Serral del Vell vineyard. It’s made from just under one hectare of goblet-trained Xarel·lo vines, planted in 1940 at almost 300 metres on the north side of the hill from which it takes its name. Cropped at 22 hl/ha, the wine ferments in barrel and rests on lees over winter with occasional stirring. It then ages in bottle for at least 12 years (150 months for this release) before the first disgorgement, as indicated on every bottle.

When the wine was first released in 2008—the 1999 vintage—Turó d’en Mota was the first pure Xarel·lo produced in the region. Today, it is widely considered one of the great, if not the greatest, sparkling wines from Spain. Luis Gutiérrez regularly rates the wine in the high nineties and little wonder. Although far from Champagne, it ages like the great grower wines to the north, developing boundless complexity while remaining alive, vibrant and super detailed. Sheer class. The 2009 and 2010 vintages we have tasted are simply extraordinary: racy, mineral and remarkably vivid and detailed.

“This is one of the years (also 2003 and 2005) when the wines suffered dehydration, and that concentrated everything, including acidity, and the wine has a low pH of 2.96. It has a nose of bread dough and wet chalk, notes of Mediterranean herbs, even esparto grass, a little riper, with a velvety palate, textured, with very fine bubbles, balanced and fresh after 150 months in bottle with lees. 2,646 bottles produced. It was disgorged in October 2024.”
96+ points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
Recaredo Corpinnat Turó d'en Mota de Recaredo Brut Nature 2011 (Disg. Oct 24)
Recaredo Corpinnat Turó d'en Mota de Recaredo Brut Nature 2001 (Disg. May 24) (Wooden Gift Box)

Recaredo Corpinnat Turó d'en Mota de Recaredo Brut Nature 2001 (Disg. May 24) (Wooden Gift Box)

Organic. Arguably the finest sparking wine that has been made from outside Champagne, the 2001 Turó d'en Mota is the second release from Recaredo’s long-aged Enoteca programme started in 1999. After almost 22 years under cork, just 150 bottles were manually disgorged in May 2024 with no dosage. Not only is it “really breathtaking”, to quote Luis Gutiérrez, in terms of purity, energy and complexity, but it also leaves most Grande Marque for dust. It's a Xarel·lo from another planet!

Turó d’en Mota cuvée takes its name from unique site within the Serral del Vell vineyard. It’s made from just under one hectare of goblet-trained Xarel·lo vines, planted in 1940 at almost 300 metres on the north side of the hill from which it takes its name. The soils, farmed biodynamically since 2010, contains calcareous lumps and quite a bit of limestone from the Serra del Mar and the Serra Catalana, which were deposited in the area due to erosion. From these lean, rocky soils and these mature vines, Recaredo is searching for the truest expression of the site’s most mineral soils (containing 33% active limestone).

“The big news (in terms of quality, not in terms of volume) is the release of the 2001 Enoteca Turó d'en Mota, from the family reserve they kept of the single-vineyard Xarel.lo they started producing in 1999. It's closed with a spectacular natural cork, worthy of the best wine they have produced to date and, to me, the finest sparkling wine from Spain. It has a very complex and subtle nose that is nuanced and with great complexity of aromas, a mixture of ash, toasted bread, yeasts and smoke from the extended contact of the wine with the lees, hints of mushrooms, diesel, moss and spice, a little balsamic twist (camphor), baked brioche... It has a laced palate with very fine bubbles that give it texture and freshness but are barely noticeable. It has incredible complexity and elegance, really breathtaking. Bravo!!”
100 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
Recaredo Corpinnat Turó d'en Mota de Recaredo Brut Nature 2001 (Disg. May 24) (Wooden Gift Box)
Recaredo Corpinnat Terrers Brut Nature 2019 (Disg. June 2023)

Recaredo Corpinnat Terrers Brut Nature 2019 (Disg. June 2023)

Biodynamic. 57% Xarel·lo, 25% Macabeu, 17% Parellada, 1% Monastrell. Aged for 39 months on lees, Terrers is made from fruit grown in Recaredo’s own vineyards, all rooted in the calcareous soils of the Alt Penedès region. Each year, the blend can include fruit from as many as 65 small parcels drawn from Recaredo’s vines in Serral del Roure, Serral del Vell, Pedra Blanca, Marçaneta and the elevated Montpedrós vineyard at 455 metres. The base wines for Terrers are raised in tank, giving a super bright and fluid wine with textured stone fruit and bursts of citrus alongside an elegant palate marked by notes of herb and spice and creamy, textured lees-aging notes.

“Terrers is a vivid, expressive and instantly-gratifying blend with its sweet herb, light orange peel and crusty sourdough bread, bright-toned but far from simple as it opens with fleshier yellow apple and blossom notes. There's a welcome, measured dose of Catalan punchiness in the blend, but the overall impression is one of completeness and finesse.”
92 points, Tom Hewson, Catalunya Sparkling Wine Report (Tim Atkin MW)
“Complex, extremely subtle and well balanced. Doesn’t taste like champagne, but why should it? Very well made. Super-refreshing with a little grip on the end.”
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com
“Mouth-filling yet so clean and bright, layers of sea spray, dried apple, strong general minerality, touches of cinnamon toast with lime and pink grapefruit brightening. Quite delicate and understated but comes with an authority of texture and drive. Subtle but frisky bubbles. Very pure feeling too. And delicious. Wildly drinkable; fine expression.”
93 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
“It’s quiet to start. Flint and roasted cashews, crushed white flowers, a hint of pink fruit. Then comes the creaminess and licks of smoke—grilled peach with pastry weight but it’s all very fine mousse lifting the whole flavour profile. It’s pleasantly bitter with a touch of warmth, a cinnamon dust tingle to the very close of things. Yummy.”
93 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front
Recaredo Corpinnat Terrers Brut Nature 2019 (Disg. June 2023)
Recaredo Corpinnat Intens Rosat Brut Nature 2019 (Disg. Nov. 2022)

Recaredo Corpinnat Intens Rosat Brut Nature 2019 (Disg. Nov. 2022)

Biodynamic. Recaredo’s fascinating Rosat is made exclusively from Monastrell grown in the Serral de Vell (250 metres) and Marçaneta (200 metres) vineyards. Ton Mata prefers to stay away from the pale style of rosé as he doesn’t believe this on-trend style fits the character of the Alt Penedès. So, against the current fashion, it has an intense ruby colour drawn from six hours of skin contact. Despite the intensity of the colour, it has the subtlety and elegance of a fine Blanc de Blancs, coupled with vinous texture and piercing red-fruit flavours. Aged in bottle for 32 months, it finishes with biscuity complexity and pleasant twist of Mourvèdre savouriness that works beautifully at the table.

“Very aromatic, rose hip tea, pot pourri, sourdough bread, some dried cranberry and faint game meat elements with wild herbal inflections and some violet lift. Creamy texture with a hazy, almost chalky edge, fine tannins included with a freshness yet strong savoury undertow, the finish decidedly firm yet mouth-watering and fresh. Bright, light bubbles. Red fruits, florals, nuttiness. Beautiful. Such a sense of complexity and uniqueness. A fine wine first, it feels.”
94 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
“I’m so drawn to this. Pink Lady apple, strawberry, raspberry, rose perfume, hibiscus. You get it, all the delicious pink and red colours. Strawberries and cream fill the palate but there’s a pinch to bubbles giving it a savoury, racy edge and then it’s more creamy in the aftertaste. There’s more. Cranberries and blood orange finish with a bitter tang and oyster shell ‘mineral’ feel in the finale. Very friendly wine. On its own or with food.”
94 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front
Recaredo Corpinnat Intens Rosat Brut Nature 2019 (Disg. Nov. 2022)
Recaredo Corpinnat Subtil Brut Nature 2018 (Disg. Nov. 2022)

Recaredo Corpinnat Subtil Brut Nature 2018 (Disg. Nov. 2022)

Biodynamic. 100% Xarel·lo, Subtil is sourced from the Serral del Roure estate, which ranges in altitude from 210 to 285 metres. The soils here are loamy and characterised by a relatively even balance of sand, silt and clay. There is little more clay in the soil than in Serral del Vell, resulting in a tendency to produce a rounder, more mouthfilling wine. A portion of the base wine is fermented in Stockinger barrel, which lends more savoury complexity to this bottling. It ages for 36 months in the bottle and is disgorged by hand. The 2018 is a brilliant, suave expression of Catalonia’s signature grape variety, with a core of pulpy, driving stone fruit and a long, chalky, bone-dry finish.

“It has 11.5% alcohol with very good freshness, reflecting a cooler year, and there is some spiciness and a yeasty touch with a medicinal and balsamic twist and a very tasty finish, almost salty, long, lively and with a bitter twist. This was recently disgorged (all bottles have the disgorgement date on the back label) after two years and eight months sur lie.”
94 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
“Savoury and sweet patisserie scents, preserved lime, stony mineral elements, faint toast and dried apple with whiffs of vanilla cream, sea spray and aniseed. Texture is amazing here, strong currency of the fine white wine underlying, savoury and minerally, with a lighter, lower atmosphere of bubbles that seems to only lend complexity rather than star. A touch of sugared bun finishes with briny minerality. Exceptional length and persistence, with a sense of delicacy, purity and verve. Drinks beautifully.”
95 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
“Love the individual expression of this one grape. It represents quite understated power here, apples and cold smoke, papaya, herbs—all on an iron bed, with that type of steely vibration that last for a while. Savoury and quite unique in its suit. Lovely.”
94 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front
Recaredo Corpinnat Subtil Brut Nature 2018 (Disg. Nov. 2022)
Recaredo Corpinnat Serral del Vell Brut Nature 2017 (Disg. June 2023)

Recaredo Corpinnat Serral del Vell Brut Nature 2017 (Disg. June 2023)

Biodynamic. 87% Xarel·lo, 13% Macabeu. This striking single-vineyard wine takes its name from the sloping Serral del Vell estate overlooked by the Montserrat mountains. The soil of the Serral del Vell plateau contains calcareous lumps and quite a bit of limestone from the Serra del Mar and the Serra Catalana, which were deposited in the area due to erosion. From these lean, rocky soils and these mature vines, Recaredo is searching for the truest expression of the site’s most mineral soils (containing 33% active limestone).

Only the Xarel·lo base wines are fermented in large-format oak. Recaredo prefers to use tanks for their Macabeu. Yields from Recaredo vineyards dipped to 26.5 hl/ha in 2017, and you can feel the fleshy intensity and low-yield energy coursing through the palate. With air, the 2017 develops some lovey nutty complexity, yet the style rests more on purity and salty-mineral impact than simple autolytic notes and dosage despite the lengthy 64 months on lees.

“Serral del Vell is a star, channelling all the salty-mineral focus that Xarel-lo can draw from these soils. Bright mandarin and lime rind aromatics, softened a touch by Macabeo's peachiness and lifted by lavender florals and subtle fresh nut lees character. Superb.”
95 points, Tom Hewson, Catalunya Sparkling Wine Report (Tim Atkin MW)
“All their wines are Brut Nature, and so is the 2017 Serral del Vell, a blend of 87% Xarel.lo and 13% Macabeo. They look for the expression of the soil here, narrower and more direct, with more tension and with tons of elegance from the aging with the lees, very integrated and balanced, keeping the acidity. It developed an acute note of licorice with time in the glass. It was disgorged after 56 months sur lie, because demand outgrows supply. They have 47,000 bottles of this vintage, which should last them for two years, so the 2018 will have a longer aging in bottle when it's released.”
95 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
“A huge volume of perfume, dried flowers, apple, fennel, buttered cinnamon buns, ginger and sea spray. The palate is acute, tightly wound, super minerally with veins of racy brine, crushed rock and slate lancing lime and crunchy green apple characters – a dominant and proud feature, enlivening the palate wildly. The fizz is frisky but a back seat. Gentle palate staining of apple, ginger, cinnamon and brine. Brilliant, vivid, alive.”
95 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
“Such detailed perfume! Almond blossom, waxy quality, candle wax, frangipani aroma, white stone fruit, nectarine stone bitterness, white flowers. Very pretty. Acidity and texture here are like talcum powder, chalky but very fine and sort of squeaky vibrating at a high pitch. Amazing finesse and elegance.”
95 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front
Recaredo Corpinnat Serral del Vell Brut Nature 2017 (Disg. June 2023)
Recaredo Corpinnat Reserva Particular Brut Nature 2013 (Disg. Sept. 2022)

Recaredo Corpinnat Reserva Particular Brut Nature 2013 (Disg. Sept. 2022)

Biodynamic. 56% Macabeu, 44% Xarel·lo. Recaredo’s Reserva Particular was created in 1962 by Josep Mata Capellades, who wanted to unearth the delicacy and subtle complexity of long-aged sparkling wines in the Penedès setting. The Xarel·lo and Macabeu for this bottling are drawn from some of Recaredo’s oldest vines, planted between 1950 and 1955 in sloping clay soils that give this cuvée its breadth and more traditional old-school personality. Aged for 100 months before release, it’s a beautifully weighted and engagingly complex wine with more classical, old-school Penedès notes of menthol, toasted nuts and spice alongside a refined., delicate mousse flecked with Mediterranean herbs, anise and more spice. Serve this at the table, much as you would a fine, mature white wine (which it is!)

“There is great freshness and minerality in the 2013 Reserva Particular, reflecting a very cold and rainy vintage when the wine was produced with a blend of 56% Macabeo and 44% Xarel.lo and disgorged after 99 months with lees in bottle. There are notes of lemongrass, caramel, toast, camphor and bay leaf with the classical yeasty notes of brioche and bread dough. It's balsamic and medicinal and has a very lively palate with almost imperceptible bubbles, which are subtle and integrated and give the wine texture and freshness but it's secondary.”
95 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
“Wonderful, evocative scents of preserved lemon, wild herbs, maritime freshness, dried stone fruits, almost a touch of custard but a sense of savouriness a curious and delightful override. The palate is quite generous and rich, creamy, lightly honeyed and toasty with hazy apple juice, lemon curd with strong briny elements. There’s a course of low key but uplifting bubbles. Finishes stony, fresh-dry and pleasingly bitter-herbal, lingering incredibly and with a light effervescence going on and on. Lots on here; fabulous journey.”
94 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
“It has a pearly glow, this wine. Like a smudged lens. Maybe this bottle, maybe age? Anyway, it’s quite shy on the nose at first, so let’s start with flavours—bitter preserved lemons, rock salt, brine and a wild honey character. Yoghurty palate. Very unique combination. Salty shortbread and a nutty character. Chewy acidity. Funky. Briny. Bitter. Mint, aniseed, cumin. Peculiar, different to others, perhaps due to age and development. I like it’s slight quirkiness. Could go 94 but…”
93 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front
Recaredo Corpinnat Reserva Particular Brut Nature 2013 (Disg. Sept. 2022)

“I’m not sure if there is any other sparkling wine producer in the world who works with such strict standards…They are the best producer of sparkling wine from Spain.”Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate

“First Growths’ of Cava. It was like being elevated to a higher level of complexity, a thrilling example of tense, mineral-rich Cava that has a distinct Champagne-like personality.”Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate

“Of all the sparkling wines I tried in Penedès, these were the ones that most captivated me with their distinctive identity, complexity and flavor.”Joaquín Hidalgo, Vinous

“The Romanée-Conti of Penedès,”Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, Decanter

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