Estate manager and winemaker Huw Kinch is one of the most thoughtful and detailed growers we know. And with the support of the expertise of industry legend Steve Smith, he is crafting some of New Zealand’s most exhilarating, terroir-driven wines. From the outset, they have made it clear that their vision for Pyramid Valley is to seal its place as one of the world’s great producers of cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Many in the trade believe they are there already. They certainly have all the tools, from their excellent rocky terroirs and ideal micro-climates to their precise, hardworking ethic in their vineyards and cellar. And while the word “talent” is over-used in wine writing, in Hew Kinch and Nick Paulin, Pyramid are also blessed in that department. Pyramid calls these two collections Colours and Pastures—but banish any image of broad brushstrokes and distant fields; here, everything is vividly detailed and finely etched. The Pastures Collection’s chief focus is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, made in the same earth-to-glass spirit as Pyramid’s iconic Botanical Collection. These releases are from 2021, a season in which Waipara frosts wiped out the Waikari home vineyard. Yields elsewhere were decimated, but where there was life, there was more than hope. “The rest of the season was pretty easy,” Kinch tells us with a rueful smile. The small crops that came through for the North Canterbury Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were bright, ripe and intense. This year’s Central Otago Pinot Noir is drawn exclusively from Manata, Pyramid’s organic site in Lowburn. Paulin—the team’s biodynamic specialist who apprenticed under Blair Walter at Felton Road—lives on the property, giving it the same care lavished upon the Waikari site, where the Kinch family reside. Then there’s a limited single-site Sauvignon Blanc from the Weaver family’s Churton vineyard—a Marlborough Sauvignon of deep ambition. With the Colours Collection, Pyramid Valley goes into exploratory mode. In the cooler 2022 season, Kinch and the team let the fruit hang for longer than usual before taking in grapes with natural grace and balance. The stylistic playfulness of these wines belies a typically attentive respect for site, fruit quality and detail. That rosé, by the way… Once again, all the wines play out with beautiful purity in the glass, exuding the kind of authenticity and vitality that is hardwired into the DNA of the world’s greatest growers. They are genuine expressions of their place and reflective of this estate's foundational philosophies. You could say Pyramid Valley is crafting some of the most important wines grown in New Zealand today. Let’s see what you think…