It’s no secret that the team behind Place of Changing Winds are a tough bunch to please. Rob and Remi do not agree on everything, so it speaks volumes that both are particularly excited with their 2023 Grower wines. And it’s easy to see why. The latest releases have a gorgeous level of purity and vibrancy, kicking up the pleasure factor without losing the quality and sophistication that is a constant under this label. Actually, the style this year is not wildly different from 2022. Both were fresh, slow-ripening vintages, perfect for Rhône varieties in these Victorian regions as well as for the ‘digeste’ style of wine the cellar loves to make and drink under the Grower banner. What is different is that the Syrah wines have even more finesse and drinkability, while the white, which also has a little more Roussanne in the blend, is a more vibrant, racier expression than last year’s. Just touching 13%, the Harcourt Syrah is the prettiest and most floral Syrah POCW has made from the granite Lome vineyard. The long hang time and slow ripening in 2023 allowed the team to pick exactly when they wanted, and it shows in the superb balance of the wine. The same goes for the Marsanne/Roussanne, with the higher acidity of 2023 bringing terrific balance to Marsanne’s natural generosity. The Syrah No. 2 is arguably the best release of this blend so far. Rob and Remi certainly believe so. Don’t be misled by the price (or the name)! In terms of quality, a second wine it is not. Rather, it is the product of two single-vineyards, blended to create a wine that can be drunk on release and is perfect to pour by the glass. This year also sees the release of the 2022 Heathcote Syrah, which is released with an extra year of aging. The new vintage is perhaps the most balanced, and even Rhône-like, that the team has bottled from the Cambrian soils of the Mount Camel Range. There is no white Tradition this year, but the red is back and better than ever. The wine’s label (pictured above) was inspired by the magical way Pinot and Syrah fuse together in the cellar. Remi tells us the whole team comes together to create this blend, and it is a lot of fun to make; we can tell you, it is just as much fun to drink. Overall, it’s a brilliant, eye-catching release (if we can say that on the team’s behalf!). Contact your rep and taste for yourself.