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J. J. Prüm 2023

Magic: A Sublime Vintage from a Mosel Superstar
J. J. Prüm 2023

“To drink a Riesling from Joh. Jos. Prüm is to enjoy a springtime of the heart and mind.” Stephan Reinhardt wrote these words in 2012, but we're sure he would agree if we applied them to the 2023 vintage. The wines from this epic year are transparent and pure, with the precision and depth that are hallmarks of Prüm’s finest years. Katharina Prüm’s 2023s are classical, yet reflect the global warming era in their generosity and openness.


It’s tempting to call Prüm’s Kabinetts the most obvious beneficiary of this wonderful year. They boast a glowing intensity and perfume alongside a lovely core of juicy fruit. They remain a model of coiled precision. The Spätlese bracket is a blinder and borders on lacy, nuanced perfection. You’ll find juicer, more open personalities than the more powerful 2022s and, with them, more immediate seduction.


Similarly, the 2023 Auslese wines could stand as an archetypal expression of Prüm’s signature style. Forget what you know about Auslese: Prüm’s are remarkably precise, finessed and fresh. They dance across the palate with lacy elegance, despite their obvious intensity. By the time we get to the epic Auslese Goldkapsel, the point has already been made! These gold top wines confirm what we have seen of this year in the lower Prädikat wines—an otherworldly balance of depth and delicacy.

 

Finally, we have secured two, ex-cellar museum wines that we tasted on recent visits to the Estate. The 2003 vintage was Katharina Prüm’s first year at the helm and the Goldkap is drinking superbly. How amazing it is to be able to offer a wine exactly 20 years older than the current release…and at almost the same price! The 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Goldkap is the second wine that we have a small portion of. It is a fascinating expression of what a high-botrytis Prüm wine looks like with age. The Estate even feels that the wine is too young! But don’t let that hold you back. 

The Wines

Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023

Prüm has made a tiny amount of Goldkapsel this year. For this rare style, multiple passes and draconian selections were required to harvest fruit at precisely the right level of ripeness. Despite the early harvest, Prüm was also able to bring in some beautiful botrytis-affected grapes, which, in the end, accounted for roughly one-third of the fruit that made these wines.

Katharina Prüm explains the Goldkapsel wines in this way: “Think of them as limited edition, small production lots of the best Auslese of a vintage. They are made from stronger, selected grapes containing more concentrated juice, usually affected by a certain amount of botrytis. They can age even remarkably longer than ‘basic’ Auslesen, lasting for many decades. Over time, they lose some of their sweetness, gain more and more elegance and harmony, and the complex profile and depth come to the forefront.”

Goldkapsel wines can work very well with desserts—ideally fruit-based dishes or crème caramel, typically nothing too sweet or chocolate-based. However, they are again better paired—especially with age—with robust, savoury food and especially cheese. Regarding savoury dishes, you can throw anything at them, even very spicy dishes, red meat and the same flavours mentioned in the Auslese bracket above. These wines are far more versatile than most dry whites and certainly more so than all red wine styles.

“Welcome to the exotic fruit store, where the piles of papayas, passion fruit and mangosteens reach for the heavens. Who could resist this unbound sensuality? Yet the wine remains super precise on the medium- to full-bodied palate. The finish has so much power and drive (also from acidity), but is as fresh and clear as a mountain stream. Drink or hold.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Bernkasteler Badstube Auslese Goldkapsel features a touch of mango on the nose, leading into vivid peach compote. The palate tempers this with citrus, a hint of candied angelica and a gorgeous frisson of pepper. Sweet yet utterly balanced and deliciously tart.”
97 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023 (375ml)

Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023 (375ml)

Prüm has made a tiny amount of Goldkapsel this year. For this rare style, multiple passes and draconian selections were required to harvest fruit at precisely the right level of ripeness. Despite the early harvest, Prüm was also able to bring in some beautiful botrytis-affected grapes, which, in the end, accounted for roughly one-third of the fruit that made these wines.

Katharina Prüm explains the Goldkapsel wines in this way: “Think of them as limited edition, small production lots of the best Auslese of a vintage. They are made from stronger, selected grapes containing more concentrated juice, usually affected by a certain amount of botrytis. They can age even remarkably longer than ‘basic’ Auslesen, lasting for many decades. Over time, they lose some of their sweetness, gain more and more elegance and harmony, and the complex profile and depth come to the forefront.”

Goldkapsel wines can work very well with desserts—ideally fruit-based dishes or crème caramel, typically nothing too sweet or chocolate-based. However, they are again better paired—especially with age—with robust, savoury food and especially cheese. Regarding savoury dishes, you can throw anything at them, even very spicy dishes, red meat and the same flavours mentioned in the Auslese bracket above. These wines are far more versatile than most dry whites and certainly more so than all red wine styles.

“Welcome to the exotic fruit store, where the piles of papayas, passion fruit and mangosteens reach for the heavens. Who could resist this unbound sensuality? Yet the wine remains super precise on the medium- to full-bodied palate. The finish has so much power and drive (also from acidity), but is as fresh and clear as a mountain stream. Drink or hold.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Bernkasteler Badstube Auslese Goldkapsel features a touch of mango on the nose, leading into vivid peach compote. The palate tempers this with citrus, a hint of candied angelica and a gorgeous frisson of pepper. Sweet yet utterly balanced and deliciously tart.”
97 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023 (375ml)
Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2023

Prüm’s filigreed 2023 Kabinetts are already shining. As usual, the power builds from Bernkastel to Graach to Wehlen. Each shows the quality of this vintage in their own way. Given the reviews below, we probably don’t need to say more. Overall, the wines are wonderfully intense, fresh and balanced. Although they will mostly be drunk young, they will also improve for five to 10 years, and 20 years will not weary them. These wines effortlessly stand up to a broad range of flavours: sashimi, lighter Asian dishes and tuna tartare, for example. But any seafood or white meat, and of course, they make beautiful aperitifs.

“Super cool and bright with a wide spectrum of delicate garden herb and white tree fruit aromas. Sleek, light-bodied and pristine, with a wonderful balance of restrained juiciness and stony freshness in the long, dry finish. Drink or hold.”
94 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett opens with a touch of mossy, lemony brightness that is vividly creamy. The palate is immediately fresh, superbly open and very friendly with some baby fat, channeling lemon and Reine Claude plum. It has a flowing, green-tinged aspect, almost like candied angelica, with a bright, fresh lemony finish.”
92 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2023

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2023s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and savoury, slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily perceptible sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. Again, as the notes below attest, 2023 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.

“A very cool and elegant Mosel riesling spatlese with aromas of white flowers dripping after a summer storm. Brimming with sliced pear fruit but barely off-dry on the palate, this is so easy to enjoy, with its deep well of finesse. The interplay of racy acidity, wet-stone character and fruit in the finish is stunningly beautiful. Drink or hold.”
95 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Bernkasteler Badstube Spätlese exudes a mossy green charm with lemon balm tinged in slight citric sweetness. The palate reveals this sweetness as Reine Claude plum compote, accompanied by lemon balm and wonderful brightness and lightness, with no baby fat at all. An utter charm bomb with serene sweetness and a delightful tinkle of lemon.”
94 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023

Prüm has made a tiny amount of Goldkapsel this year. For this rare style, multiple passes and draconian selections were required to harvest fruit at precisely the right level of ripeness. Despite the early harvest, Prüm was also able to bring in some beautiful botrytis-affected grapes, which, in the end, accounted for roughly one-third of the fruit that made these wines.

Katharina Prüm explains the Goldkapsel wines in this way: “Think of them as limited edition, small production lots of the best Auslese of a vintage. They are made from stronger, selected grapes containing more concentrated juice, usually affected by a certain amount of botrytis. They can age even remarkably longer than ‘basic’ Auslesen, lasting for many decades. Over time, they lose some of their sweetness, gain more and more elegance and harmony, and the complex profile and depth come to the forefront.”

Goldkapsel wines can work very well with desserts—ideally fruit-based dishes or crème caramel, typically nothing too sweet or chocolate-based. However, they are again better paired—especially with age—with robust, savoury food and especially cheese. Regarding savoury dishes, you can throw anything at them, even very spicy dishes, red meat and the same flavours mentioned in the Auslese bracket above. These wines are far more versatile than most dry whites and certainly more so than all red wine styles.

“Welcome to the peak of Mosel filigree in a category where most consumers only expect honeyed richness. Pure silk on the medium-bodied palate, where the great concentration slowly creeps up on you, building to a fantastic crescendo with a pink grapefruit freshness that’s unique in this category. You can drink it now, but then you will miss some of the greatness that’s still locked inside this treasure chest. Drink or hold.”
98 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Bernkasteler Lay Auslese Goldkapsel, with about a third of botrytis-affected fruit, offers an intense aroma of dandelion blossom and ripe peach, complemented by a hint of smokiness. The concentrated palate features intense sweetness framed by a gorgeous spice of candied grapefruit. This intensity seems to delve deeper into the stone, enticing you to take another salty-sweet sip.”
95 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2023

Again, the step up here is one of power rather than just sweetness. Riper and more intense is a more accurate way of describing what’s happening. The style remains pure and ultra-fine, and while the Spätlese wines revel in juicy intensity, this bracket offers more power, flesh, complexity and length. These wines can sometimes be tricky to understand fully when young—not so for the fruit-forward 2023s; they already have the wow factor. Again, there is a big step up in intensity, and the difference between the vineyards shines through even more.

With such finesse, delicacy and digestibility, these wines are typically too delicate for sweet desserts (although they can work with light, fruit-based dishes that are not overly sweet). Match them with whatever works for you, but don’t forget that this level can work very well with savoury food, matching superbly to pork, game birds, savoury tarts, roast chicken, ceviche, sausage, and venison. They are also brilliant with almost all Japanese and Chinese dishes and terrific with a wide range of cheeses. Spice and fruit-based sauces do not worry them!


“I love the mint and chamomile freshness that pulls you into this juicy and concentrated wine and also make it very filigreed on the medium-bodied palate. Incredible precision and subtlety in the super-long finish. Try to be patient, because this is a marathon runner. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auslese, made virtually without botrytis from fully ripe grapes, offers a shy tone of stone and yeast. The palate features Mirabelle jelly with lovely overtones of lemon balm and fern, wonderfully cut by freshness with a pithy, zesty edge of lime and mainly pale lemon. The finish resembles lemon and yellow plum sorbet, exquisitely fresh and palate-cleansing, yet with exquisite sweetness. Incredibly fine, slender and so balanced.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2023 (1500ml)

Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2023 (1500ml)

Again, the step up here is one of power rather than just sweetness. Riper and more intense is a more accurate way of describing what’s happening. The style remains pure and ultra-fine, and while the Spätlese wines revel in juicy intensity, this bracket offers more power, flesh, complexity and length. These wines can sometimes be tricky to understand fully when young—not so for the fruit-forward 2023s; they already have the wow factor. Again, there is a big step up in intensity, and the difference between the vineyards shines through even more.

With such finesse, delicacy and digestibility, these wines are typically too delicate for sweet desserts (although they can work with light, fruit-based dishes that are not overly sweet). Match them with whatever works for you, but don’t forget that this level can work very well with savoury food, matching superbly to pork, game birds, savoury tarts, roast chicken, ceviche, sausage, and venison. They are also brilliant with almost all Japanese and Chinese dishes and terrific with a wide range of cheeses. Spice and fruit-based sauces do not worry them!


“I love the mint and chamomile freshness that pulls you into this juicy and concentrated wine and also make it very filigreed on the medium-bodied palate. Incredible precision and subtlety in the super-long finish. Try to be patient, because this is a marathon runner. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auslese, made virtually without botrytis from fully ripe grapes, offers a shy tone of stone and yeast. The palate features Mirabelle jelly with lovely overtones of lemon balm and fern, wonderfully cut by freshness with a pithy, zesty edge of lime and mainly pale lemon. The finish resembles lemon and yellow plum sorbet, exquisitely fresh and palate-cleansing, yet with exquisite sweetness. Incredibly fine, slender and so balanced.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2023 (1500ml)
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2023 (375ml)

Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2023 (375ml)

Again, the step up here is one of power rather than just sweetness. Riper and more intense is a more accurate way of describing what’s happening. The style remains pure and ultra-fine, and while the Spätlese wines revel in juicy intensity, this bracket offers more power, flesh, complexity and length. These wines can sometimes be tricky to understand fully when young—not so for the fruit-forward 2023s; they already have the wow factor. Again, there is a big step up in intensity, and the difference between the vineyards shines through even more.

With such finesse, delicacy and digestibility, these wines are typically too delicate for sweet desserts (although they can work with light, fruit-based dishes that are not overly sweet). Match them with whatever works for you, but don’t forget that this level can work very well with savoury food, matching superbly to pork, game birds, savoury tarts, roast chicken, ceviche, sausage, and venison. They are also brilliant with almost all Japanese and Chinese dishes and terrific with a wide range of cheeses. Spice and fruit-based sauces do not worry them!

“I love the mint and chamomile freshness that pulls you into this juicy and concentrated wine and also make it very filigreed on the medium-bodied palate. Incredible precision and subtlety in the super-long finish. Try to be patient, because this is a marathon runner. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auslese, made virtually without botrytis from fully ripe grapes, offers a shy tone of stone and yeast. The palate features Mirabelle jelly with lovely overtones of lemon balm and fern, wonderfully cut by freshness with a pithy, zesty edge of lime and mainly pale lemon. The finish resembles lemon and yellow plum sorbet, exquisitely fresh and palate-cleansing, yet with exquisite sweetness. Incredibly fine, slender and so balanced.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2023 (375ml)
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2023

Prüm’s filigreed 2023 Kabinetts are already shining. As usual, the power builds from Bernkastel to Graach to Wehlen. Each shows the quality of this vintage in their own way. Given the reviews below, we probably don’t need to say more. Overall, the wines are wonderfully intense, fresh and balanced. Although they will mostly be drunk young, they will also improve for five to 10 years, and 20 years will not weary them. These wines effortlessly stand up to a broad range of flavours: sashimi, lighter Asian dishes and tuna tartare, for example. But any seafood or white meat, and of course, they make beautiful aperitifs.

“This Mosel riesling kabinett is a miniature masterpiece of delicacy. I love the aromas of wildflowers and herbs that are married to a wealth of mineral nuances on the light- to medium-bodied palate. Although a hint of sweetness is perceptible, this has quite a firm core, yet is very filigreed at the long, pristine finish. Drink or hold.”
95 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett initially presents a reductive funk that takes time to dissipate, allowing only brief glimpses of green apple to peep through. However, the palate is superbly sprightly, vividly light and lemony fresh, skipping along light-heartedly without a care in the world. It airily and charmingly spreads its lemony perfume and charm. A quintessential, elfin Kabinett.”
93 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2023 (1500ml)

Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2023 (1500ml)

Prüm’s filigreed 2023 Kabinetts are already shining. As usual, the power builds from Bernkastel to Graach to Wehlen. Each shows the quality of this vintage in their own way. Given the reviews below, we probably don’t need to say more. Overall, the wines are wonderfully intense, fresh and balanced. Although they will mostly be drunk young, they will also improve for five to 10 years, and 20 years will not weary them. These wines effortlessly stand up to a broad range of flavours: sashimi, lighter Asian dishes and tuna tartare, for example. But any seafood or white meat, and of course, they make beautiful aperitifs.

“This Mosel riesling kabinett is a miniature masterpiece of delicacy. I love the aromas of wildflowers and herbs that are married to a wealth of mineral nuances on the light- to medium-bodied palate. Although a hint of sweetness is perceptible, this has quite a firm core, yet is very filigreed at the long, pristine finish. Drink or hold.”
95 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett initially presents a reductive funk that takes time to dissipate, allowing only brief glimpses of green apple to peep through. However, the palate is superbly sprightly, vividly light and lemony fresh, skipping along light-heartedly without a care in the world. It airily and charmingly spreads its lemony perfume and charm. A quintessential, elfin Kabinett.”
93 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2023 (1500ml)
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2023

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2023s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and savoury, slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily perceptible sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. Again, as the notes below attest, 2023 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.

“This great Spatlese from the Graacher Himmelreich has everything we hope for from this famous site: excellent concentration and delicacy on the barely medium-bodied palate, terrific slatey character and a broad spectrum of aromas that range from white flowers and peaches to blackcurrants. Super-stony and precise finish. All of this has a wonderful spring-like freshness that makes it irresistible. Drink or hold.”
96 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese offers a yeasty aroma with a hint of flint and a slight touch of mint. The palate showcases pure Mirabelle and gentle sweetness, with exquisite delineation and a supple sweetness highlighted by an exquisitely pure lemon tone.”
95 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2023 (1500ml)

Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2023 (1500ml)

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2023s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and savoury, slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily perceptible sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. Again, as the notes below attest, 2023 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.

“This great Spatlese from the Graacher Himmelreich has everything we hope for from this famous site: excellent concentration and delicacy on the barely medium-bodied palate, terrific slatey character and a broad spectrum of aromas that range from white flowers and peaches to blackcurrants. Super-stony and precise finish. All of this has a wonderful spring-like freshness that makes it irresistible. Drink or hold.”
96 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese offers a yeasty aroma with a hint of flint and a slight touch of mint. The palate showcases pure Mirabelle and gentle sweetness, with exquisite delineation and a supple sweetness highlighted by an exquisitely pure lemon tone.”
95 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese 2023 (1500ml)
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2023

Again, the step up here is one of power rather than just sweetness. Riper and more intense is a more accurate way of describing what’s happening. The style remains pure and ultra-fine, and while the Spätlese wines revel in juicy intensity, this bracket offers more power, flesh, complexity and length. These wines can sometimes be tricky to understand fully when young—not so for the fruit-forward 2023s; they already have the wow factor. Again, there is a big step up in intensity, and the difference between the vineyards shines through even more.

With such finesse, delicacy and digestibility, these wines are typically too delicate for sweet desserts (although they can work with light, fruit-based dishes that are not overly sweet). Match them with whatever works for you, but don’t forget that this level can work very well with savoury food, matching superbly to pork, game birds, savoury tarts, roast chicken, ceviche, sausage, and venison. They are also brilliant with almost all Japanese and Chinese dishes and terrific with a wide range of cheeses. Spice and fruit-based sauces do not worry them!

“This great Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese shows exactly the combination of white flower and white peach aromas with silky succulence and extraordinary freshness that made these wines legendary. There’s a healthy amount of unfermented grape sweetness, but the interplay of this with the myriad other components is so complex and fascinating. Super-graceful finish that feels like stroking satin. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese, made with virtually no botrytis from ripe grapes, offers equal notes of grapefruit peel, juicy peach and lemon. The extreme finesse of the Prüm style meets the site's elegance, with stony lemon running like a central vein through the linear, elongated body. Such finesse, lightness and filigree nature, yet so much depth. Simply astonishing and a paradigm of site and style.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2023 (1500ml)

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2023 (1500ml)

Again, the step up here is one of power rather than just sweetness. Riper and more intense is a more accurate way of describing what’s happening. The style remains pure and ultra-fine, and while the Spätlese wines revel in juicy intensity, this bracket offers more power, flesh, complexity and length. These wines can sometimes be tricky to understand fully when young—not so for the fruit-forward 2023s; they already have the wow factor. Again, there is a big step up in intensity, and the difference between the vineyards shines through even more.

With such finesse, delicacy and digestibility, these wines are typically too delicate for sweet desserts (although they can work with light, fruit-based dishes that are not overly sweet). Match them with whatever works for you, but don’t forget that this level can work very well with savoury food, matching superbly to pork, game birds, savoury tarts, roast chicken, ceviche, sausage, and venison. They are also brilliant with almost all Japanese and Chinese dishes and terrific with a wide range of cheeses. Spice and fruit-based sauces do not worry them!

“This great Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese shows exactly the combination of white flower and white peach aromas with silky succulence and extraordinary freshness that made these wines legendary. There’s a healthy amount of unfermented grape sweetness, but the interplay of this with the myriad other components is so complex and fascinating. Super-graceful finish that feels like stroking satin. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese, made with virtually no botrytis from ripe grapes, offers equal notes of grapefruit peel, juicy peach and lemon. The extreme finesse of the Prüm style meets the site's elegance, with stony lemon running like a central vein through the linear, elongated body. Such finesse, lightness and filigree nature, yet so much depth. Simply astonishing and a paradigm of site and style.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2023 (1500ml)
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2023 (375ml)

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2023 (375ml)

Again, the step up here is one of power rather than just sweetness. Riper and more intense is a more accurate way of describing what’s happening. The style remains pure and ultra-fine, and while the Spätlese wines revel in juicy intensity, this bracket offers more power, flesh, complexity and length. These wines can sometimes be tricky to understand fully when young—not so for the fruit-forward 2023s; they already have the wow factor. Again, there is a big step up in intensity, and the difference between the vineyards shines through even more.

With such finesse, delicacy and digestibility, these wines are typically too delicate for sweet desserts (although they can work with light, fruit-based dishes that are not overly sweet). Match them with whatever works for you, but don’t forget that this level can work very well with savoury food, matching superbly to pork, game birds, savoury tarts, roast chicken, ceviche, sausage, and venison. They are also brilliant with almost all Japanese and Chinese dishes and terrific with a wide range of cheeses. Spice and fruit-based sauces do not worry them!

“This great Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese shows exactly the combination of white flower and white peach aromas with silky succulence and extraordinary freshness that made these wines legendary. There’s a healthy amount of unfermented grape sweetness, but the interplay of this with the myriad other components is so complex and fascinating. Super-graceful finish that feels like stroking satin. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese, made with virtually no botrytis from ripe grapes, offers equal notes of grapefruit peel, juicy peach and lemon. The extreme finesse of the Prüm style meets the site's elegance, with stony lemon running like a central vein through the linear, elongated body. Such finesse, lightness and filigree nature, yet so much depth. Simply astonishing and a paradigm of site and style.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2023 (375ml)
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023

Prüm has made a tiny amount of Goldkapsel this year. For this rare style, multiple passes and draconian selections were required to harvest fruit at precisely the right level of ripeness. Despite the early harvest, Prüm was also able to bring in some beautiful botrytis-affected grapes, which, in the end, accounted for roughly one-third of the fruit that made these wines.

Katharina Prüm explains the Goldkapsel wines in this way: “Think of them as limited edition, small production lots of the best Auslese of a vintage. They are made from stronger, selected grapes containing more concentrated juice, usually affected by a certain amount of botrytis. They can age even remarkably longer than ‘basic’ Auslesen, lasting for many decades. Over time, they lose some of their sweetness, gain more and more elegance and harmony, and the complex profile and depth come to the forefront.”

Goldkapsel wines can work very well with desserts—ideally fruit-based dishes or crème caramel, typically nothing too sweet or chocolate-based. However, they are again better paired—especially with age—with robust, savoury food and especially cheese. Regarding savoury dishes, you can throw anything at them, even very spicy dishes, red meat and the same flavours mentioned in the Auslese bracket above. These wines are far more versatile than most dry whites and certainly more so than all red wine styles.


“One of the great Mosel Auslese masterpieces of modern times, this has all the floral splendor of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard site on the medium-bodied palate, through which an extremely delicate thread of floral honey flows. Then the exotic fruit aromas cascade over you at the extremely long and precise finish. Perfect balance makes this seem much less sweet than it really is. Limited production. Drink or hold.”
99 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel opens with a fleeting touch of mint oil before revealing a world of peachy suppleness and concentration, countered by lemon and tender, light-footed elegance. It unfolds with exquisite aromatic finesse. Yes, this is a Goldkapsel, but its lightness and purity are exquisite. So fine and bright with a lastingly zesty finish.”
97 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023 (375ml)

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023 (375ml)

Prüm has made a tiny amount of Goldkapsel this year. For this rare style, multiple passes and draconian selections were required to harvest fruit at precisely the right level of ripeness. Despite the early harvest, Prüm was also able to bring in some beautiful botrytis-affected grapes, which, in the end, accounted for roughly one-third of the fruit that made these wines.

Katharina Prüm explains the Goldkapsel wines in this way: “Think of them as limited edition, small production lots of the best Auslese of a vintage. They are made from stronger, selected grapes containing more concentrated juice, usually affected by a certain amount of botrytis. They can age even remarkably longer than ‘basic’ Auslesen, lasting for many decades. Over time, they lose some of their sweetness, gain more and more elegance and harmony, and the complex profile and depth come to the forefront.”

Goldkapsel wines can work very well with desserts—ideally fruit-based dishes or crème caramel, typically nothing too sweet or chocolate-based. However, they are again better paired—especially with age—with robust, savoury food and especially cheese. Regarding savoury dishes, you can throw anything at them, even very spicy dishes, red meat and the same flavours mentioned in the Auslese bracket above. These wines are far more versatile than most dry whites and certainly more so than all red wine styles.


“One of the great Mosel Auslese masterpieces of modern times, this has all the floral splendor of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard site on the medium-bodied palate, through which an extremely delicate thread of floral honey flows. Then the exotic fruit aromas cascade over you at the extremely long and precise finish. Perfect balance makes this seem much less sweet than it really is. Limited production. Drink or hold.”
99 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel opens with a fleeting touch of mint oil before revealing a world of peachy suppleness and concentration, countered by lemon and tender, light-footed elegance. It unfolds with exquisite aromatic finesse. Yes, this is a Goldkapsel, but its lightness and purity are exquisite. So fine and bright with a lastingly zesty finish.”
97 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese GOLDKAPSEL 2023 (375ml)
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2023

Prüm’s filigreed 2023 Kabinetts are already shining. As usual, the power builds from Bernkastel to Graach to Wehlen. Each shows the quality of this vintage in their own way. Given the reviews below, we probably don’t need to say more. Overall, the wines are wonderfully intense, fresh and balanced. Although they will mostly be drunk young, they will also improve for five to 10 years, and 20 years will not weary them. These wines effortlessly stand up to a broad range of flavours: sashimi, lighter Asian dishes and tuna tartare, for example. But any seafood or white meat, and of course, they make beautiful aperitifs.

“Super elegant and super filigreed, with ravishing aromas of honeysuckle, white peaches and Asian pears, this is a very sophisticated and polished wine for this category. Incredibly refreshing, but also incredibly silky on the light-bodied palate. Then comes the extremely long and precise finish in which floral and wet-stone elements are almost perfectly interwoven. Drink or hold.”
96 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett opens with some reduction, but the yeastiness blends with lemon. The palate is sleek and contoured, vividly fine, with cool, salty slate. Its blue, cool aspect shines with yellow lemon, creating a gorgeous complementary accord that accentuates absolute elegance.”
94 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2023 (1500ml)

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2023 (1500ml)

Prüm’s filigreed 2023 Kabinetts are already shining. As usual, the power builds from Bernkastel to Graach to Wehlen. Each shows the quality of this vintage in their own way. Given the reviews below, we probably don’t need to say more. Overall, the wines are wonderfully intense, fresh and balanced. Although they will mostly be drunk young, they will also improve for five to 10 years, and 20 years will not weary them. These wines effortlessly stand up to a broad range of flavours: sashimi, lighter Asian dishes and tuna tartare, for example. But any seafood or white meat, and of course, they make beautiful aperitifs.

“Super elegant and super filigreed, with ravishing aromas of honeysuckle, white peaches and Asian pears, this is a very sophisticated and polished wine for this category. Incredibly refreshing, but also incredibly silky on the light-bodied palate. Then comes the extremely long and precise finish in which floral and wet-stone elements are almost perfectly interwoven. Drink or hold.”
96 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett opens with some reduction, but the yeastiness blends with lemon. The palate is sleek and contoured, vividly fine, with cool, salty slate. Its blue, cool aspect shines with yellow lemon, creating a gorgeous complementary accord that accentuates absolute elegance.”
94 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2023 (1500ml)
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2023s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and savoury, slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily perceptible sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. Again, as the notes below attest, 2023 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.

“The sensuous curves of Art Nouveau design and joyful flourishes of rococo both give an idea of what Mosel riesling elegance means, but in a masterpiece like this it takes on a totally distinctive feeling unlike anything else on Planet Wine. The white peach fruit, white flower aromas and slatey minerality all tingle on your palate, then flicker on and on in a totally fascinating manner in the nearly endless finish. The touch of sweetness is already beautifully integrated, although the wine just began a decades-long life. Drink or hold.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese opens with a serene, stony, salty slaty breeze. The palate is exquisitely fine and very bright, luminous even, soaring upward as it reaches down into the slate, embodying the total elegance of the site. Slenderness and serenity are exemplary.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2023s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and savoury, slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily perceptible sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. Again, as the notes below attest, 2023 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.

“The sensuous curves of Art Nouveau design and joyful flourishes of rococo both give an idea of what Mosel riesling elegance means, but in a masterpiece like this it takes on a totally distinctive feeling unlike anything else on Planet Wine. The white peach fruit, white flower aromas and slatey minerality all tingle on your palate, then flicker on and on in a totally fascinating manner in the nearly endless finish. The touch of sweetness is already beautifully integrated, although the wine just began a decades-long life. Drink or hold.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese opens with a serene, stony, salty slaty breeze. The palate is exquisitely fine and very bright, luminous even, soaring upward as it reaches down into the slate, embodying the total elegance of the site. Slenderness and serenity are exemplary.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2023s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and savoury, slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily perceptible sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. Again, as the notes below attest, 2023 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.

“The sensuous curves of Art Nouveau design and joyful flourishes of rococo both give an idea of what Mosel riesling elegance means, but in a masterpiece like this it takes on a totally distinctive feeling unlike anything else on Planet Wine. The white peach fruit, white flower aromas and slatey minerality all tingle on your palate, then flicker on and on in a totally fascinating manner in the nearly endless finish. The touch of sweetness is already beautifully integrated, although the wine just began a decades-long life. Drink or hold.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese opens with a serene, stony, salty slaty breeze. The palate is exquisitely fine and very bright, luminous even, soaring upward as it reaches down into the slate, embodying the total elegance of the site. Slenderness and serenity are exemplary.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2023s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and savoury, slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily perceptible sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. Again, as the notes below attest, 2023 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.

“The sensuous curves of Art Nouveau design and joyful flourishes of rococo both give an idea of what Mosel riesling elegance means, but in a masterpiece like this it takes on a totally distinctive feeling unlike anything else on Planet Wine. The white peach fruit, white flower aromas and slatey minerality all tingle on your palate, then flicker on and on in a totally fascinating manner in the nearly endless finish. The touch of sweetness is already beautifully integrated, although the wine just began a decades-long life. Drink or hold.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese opens with a serene, stony, salty slaty breeze. The palate is exquisitely fine and very bright, luminous even, soaring upward as it reaches down into the slate, embodying the total elegance of the site. Slenderness and serenity are exemplary.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2023s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and savoury, slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily perceptible sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. Again, as the notes below attest, 2023 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.

“The sensuous curves of Art Nouveau design and joyful flourishes of rococo both give an idea of what Mosel riesling elegance means, but in a masterpiece like this it takes on a totally distinctive feeling unlike anything else on Planet Wine. The white peach fruit, white flower aromas and slatey minerality all tingle on your palate, then flicker on and on in a totally fascinating manner in the nearly endless finish. The touch of sweetness is already beautifully integrated, although the wine just began a decades-long life. Drink or hold.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese opens with a serene, stony, salty slaty breeze. The palate is exquisitely fine and very bright, luminous even, soaring upward as it reaches down into the slate, embodying the total elegance of the site. Slenderness and serenity are exemplary.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

At this level, the Prüm wines are still light in body, but the flavour intensity and depth of character go up markedly, and the 2023s deliver a mesmerising balance between elegance, freshness, racy fruit and savoury, slate-like minerality. There is considerably more depth of fruit here than in the Kabinett-level wines, although not necessarily perceptible sweetness. Instead, it is a question of more flesh, more power and, therefore, wines that can stand up to richer food. Katharina Prüm believes this category is the most versatile at the table. We agree. Again, as the notes below attest, 2023 is a stunning vintage for Prüm’s Spätlese. These wines are already thrilling to taste but will continue gaining depth and complexity for decades.

“The sensuous curves of Art Nouveau design and joyful flourishes of rococo both give an idea of what Mosel riesling elegance means, but in a masterpiece like this it takes on a totally distinctive feeling unlike anything else on Planet Wine. The white peach fruit, white flower aromas and slatey minerality all tingle on your palate, then flicker on and on in a totally fascinating manner in the nearly endless finish. The touch of sweetness is already beautifully integrated, although the wine just began a decades-long life. Drink or hold.”
97 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
“The 2023 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese opens with a serene, stony, salty slaty breeze. The palate is exquisitely fine and very bright, luminous even, soaring upward as it reaches down into the slate, embodying the total elegance of the site. Slenderness and serenity are exemplary.”
96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2023

“No matter what kind of mood you are in, the world always seems a better place with a glass of Prüm in hand; these are gracious, charming, wines that go straight for the heart leaving you only with the desire to finish the bottle quickly, resolving to finish a second bottle more slowly and reflectively.Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

The entire [2023] collection is a light-footed but intensely aromatic dream.”Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous

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