“To drink a Riesling from Joh. Jos. Prüm is to enjoy a springtime of the heart and mind.” Stephan Reinhardt wrote these words in 2012, but we're sure he would agree if we applied them to the 2023 vintage. The wines from this epic year are transparent and pure, with the precision and depth that are hallmarks of Prüm’s finest years. Katharina Prüm’s 2023s are classical, yet reflect the global warming era in their generosity and openness. It’s tempting to call Prüm’s Kabinetts the most obvious beneficiary of this wonderful year. They boast a glowing intensity and perfume alongside a lovely core of juicy fruit. They remain a model of coiled precision. The Spätlese bracket is a blinder and borders on lacy, nuanced perfection. You’ll find juicer, more open personalities than the more powerful 2022s and, with them, more immediate seduction. Similarly, the 2023 Auslese wines could stand as an archetypal expression of Prüm’s signature style. Forget what you know about Auslese: Prüm’s are remarkably precise, finessed and fresh. They dance across the palate with lacy elegance, despite their obvious intensity. By the time we get to the epic Auslese Goldkapsel, the point has already been made! These gold top wines confirm what we have seen of this year in the lower Prädikat wines—an otherworldly balance of depth and delicacy. Finally, we have secured two, ex-cellar museum wines that we tasted on recent visits to the Estate. The 2003 vintage was Katharina Prüm’s first year at the helm and the Goldkap is drinking superbly. How amazing it is to be able to offer a wine exactly 20 years older than the current release…and at almost the same price! The 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Goldkap is the second wine that we have a small portion of. It is a fascinating expression of what a high-botrytis Prüm wine looks like with age. The Estate even feels that the wine is too young! But don’t let that hold you back.