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Garagiste: Mornington Glory—The Outstanding 2022 Terre de Feu and Terre Maritime

Garagiste: Mornington Glory—The Outstanding 2022 Terre de Feu and Terre Maritime

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We don’t think it’s news that the 2022 vintage was a dream year for Garagiste. Growing conditions were nigh-on perfect—a long, slow and moderate season that allowed for ideal flavour development and precise harvesting. And, even if volumes have been shot to pieces by the La Niña pattern, the quality has been, to quote the man himself, “bloody spectacular”.

It’s been ten years since Barney first released his flagship Terre de Feu Pinot Noir. Since then, both the wine and its maker have come a long way. The wine has always been 100% whole bunch, and Barney explains that early releases received a shorter ferment with more early extraction than he employs today. Recent years have seen longer ferments, extraction later in the élevage and more extended periods on skins—from two weeks in the first few years up to three to four in this release. In tandem with softer handling, extending the process has paved the way for Barney to capture more nuance and perfume in the wine. His 2022 is a knockout.

The Terre Maritime Chardonnay, now in its fifth year, has seen a similar qualitative evolution in the vineyard and cellar. Seeking oak support rather than impact, Barney is now exclusively using large, seasoned wood, and 2022 is his second year with Stockinger foudre in play. The purity and clarity of this label has never been more exciting.

We’ll leave the final words to Barney, who succinctly captures the essence of these two wines when he tells us, “Your top wine doesn’t have to be the biggest, boldest expression, it can be quieter, more detailed, more subtle and still have as much—if not more—interest and excitement.” Spoken like a true vigneron. We’ll drink to that.

The Wines

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