As the old saying goes, sometimes you’ve got to rob Peter to pay Paul. It’s a stark reality that yields in Victoria have been far less than ideal for the last few years. Yet, despite the meagre crops, Barney Flanders believes he’s making the best wines of his career. Few would argue.The 2023 vintage was another long, cool and even season, and while yields were modest, the quality of Garagiste’s Merricks wines is, to quote Barney, “really up there, putting its nose in front of 2022”.Of course, vintage conditions are only part of the puzzle. Barney’s been making wine on the peninsula for 22 years, and in common with all the top winemakers, he’s continually seeking to improve.Three years ago, he implemented changes in his vineyards, adjusting the under-vine management to be far more sympathetic to the soil. These minor, incremental modifications are coming to fruition. “I’m starting to see the changes we’ve made play out in the fruit,” Barney told us. “I’m seeing a dramatic shift in how our vines adapt to the season. There’s more energy, they’re stronger, and I’m seeing that translate to the fruit.”Here’s another old proverb: In wine, there is truth. Each of Garagiste’s 2023 Merricks wines is a resonant and pure expression of its variety and its place. You might drink more expensive Mornington, but you won’t drink much finer. Please note that the Aligoté is, as always, super limited.