We tasted many of the wines we offer today during our last visit to Montlouis in May 2022. It was another thrilling tasting at this address—and a resounding reminder that this is a white-wine cellar to match the very best of the Côte de Beaune and Chablis. Due to the meagre yields of 2021, François has been managing his inventory, so this release includes the dry wines from 2021 and our second allocations from the previous vintage. Following the run of warmer seasons, the more recent year marks something of a return to the chiselled and scintillatingly racy Chidaine style of, say, 2010 and 2014. Having worked alongside her father for five years, Alice Chidaine has now assumed a key role in the cellar. Before returning to the domaine, Alice apprenticed with Clos Rougeard and Dagueneau in the Loire Valley, and worked vintage with Chris Alheit in Swartland. Perhaps even more than her father—who is happy to let the vintage dictate—she craves tension in her wines, and this signature is writ large over the riveting 2021 whites. Unfortunately, quantities are limited (so please act fast). In contrast to the cooler-season wines, Chidaine’s 2020s are powerful, supple, almost statuesque Chenin Blanc. Their character is built, to quote François, not so much on acidity as on magnificent fruit and the structure and phenolic freshness from the season’s thick skins. How Chidaine achieved such balance from a warm season and August harvest is remarkable. Perhaps “The Pope” had help from above? Alongside the whites, we’re more than excited to offer the vibrant Pétillant, the first time in some years that this great-value wine has been available. Finally, we have three wines from Chidaine’s sweeter stable. Many years ago, when the legendary Noël Pinguet was still with Domaine Huet, Pinguet joked with us that he held Chidaine’s sweet wines in such regard that sometimes he wished he could swap appellations. Enough said!