Champagne authority Peter Liem has argued, “From a top vintage, Clos des Goisses is one of the most exciting experiences Champagne can offer.” Today, we’re delighted to offer two of those ‘top vintages’ from the jewel in Philipponnat’s crown.The 2013 release is widely considered to be one of the most outstanding young wines released from the Clos des Goisses. Of the 14 plots in the clos, only the six finest were used to craft the Pinot-dominant 2013; even then, only the best wines were selected for the final blend. “Why is it quite so good?” asks William Kelley. “It would appear that 2013 was the perfect storm: an early-ripening terroir in a cool, late vintage; moderately yielding Burgundian selections of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that attained full maturity; and a willingness to make a strict selection have all come together to deliver a profound Clos des Goisses.” Alongside the 2013, we have been able to source a few more bottles of the stellar 2012 vintage—a year that Charles Philipponnat considers one of the best of the century. The clos is also the source of one of Champagne’s rarest and most unique rosé wines. The 2012 we offer today is the first release of Philipponnat’s Juste Rosé since the 2009. Finally, we offer the latest disgorgement from Philipponnat’s much-admired cellar-release program. If your budget stretches into prestige territory, the Clos de Goisses is one of the greatest Champagnes money can buy. The majestic Clos des Goisses vineyard rises steeply from the edge of the Marne River and is planted to 3.5 hectares of Pinot Noir and two hectares of Chardonnay. This historically revered south-facing slope was the first in the region to be bottled as a single-vineyard wine. Today, with a focus on precise viticulture, old mass-selection vines, moderate yields and ripe fruit at harvest, the wine has never been better.The extremely chalky soils of the Clos des Goisses, its aspect and atypical warmth—the average growing season temperature here is 1.5°C higher than most of Champagne—result in one of Champagne’s most powerful and intense wines. Yet what makes this site so special is its capacity to retain freshness even in vintages that are, on average, hotter than ever before. There is a signature freshness to the wine and a sustained sense of acidity that comes from the chalk, even in vintages that might be seen analytically to lack acidity.Be sure to serve it in a proper wine glass, ideally not too cold, and don’t be scared to decant. In short, treat it like a fine white wine—for that’s what it is! It’s also a serious food wine and able to stand up to a wide range of dishes, including roast chicken or pork, game birds, sausages, hard cheeses, pâtés and terrines, etc.