Rioja is a region steeped in tradition and technique, defined in large part by its intricate aging system. Though this system forms the bedrock of the region’s wine identity, it is by no means a guarantee of quality, placing all the emphasis on maturation times, and little to none on place and practice. As in other regions in Europe, where regulations can prove restrictive and counter-intuitive, Rioja is home to a growing band of producers that champion terroir above all else, expectations be damned. Clos Ibai is one such producer.

Since establishing the estate in 2014, Daniel Frías and Xabier Kamio have deepened their understanding of their cadre of high-elevation, low-yielding sites scattered throughout Alavesa. They work tirelessly to improve soil health, using grass and cover crops to build diversity and enrich organic matter. They have also expanded their holdings to seven hectares and are now certified organic, with biodynamic certification expected in 2024. Small-batch experimentation continues to be an estate signature; expect a single-site Graciano and skin-contact white to join the ranks in the not-too-distant future.

In the cellar, the boys keep a very close eye on things but try to stay out of the way: lots of natural, whole cluster ferments in Flexitank eggs, stainless steel and oak barrels, with plenty of solids and aging on lees. And the wines? Well, if you’re not yet familiar with the wines of Clos Ibai, you can expect pure, transparent and insanely drinkable wines. Delicious Rioja, just not as you know it.