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Larmandier-Bernier

New Disgorgments & More...
Larmandier-Bernier

We had a gripping tasting with Georges Larmandier in Vertus this year; some of those disgorgements we sampled have now arrived in Australia. Both the current Latitude and Longitude cuvées are based on the 2021 vintage, a very classical, incisive year that has brought gorgeous freshness to both wines. Taking nothing away from the 2020 base wines, the new vintages have an ounce more precision.

 

The same is true for the beautiful new Rosé de Saignée, made entirely from the 2021 vintage. Considerably finer and more subtle than 2020, Georges Larmandier sees delicate flavours of wild strawberry and orchard fruit compared to the riper, spiced mulberry fruits of warmer vintages. Then, Larmandier’s Terre de Vertus 2017 continues to grow in the bottle, revealing more citrus fruits and chalky minerality as it goes.

The Wines

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)

Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that wines from these sites—having more clay in the soil—tend to offer. In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria).

Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Latitude matures in bottle for more than two years before disgorgement and dosage at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, 3 g/L) at least six months before release. This bottling is based on the 2021 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004. Upcoming releases will include fruit from some terrific vineyards in Villeneuve and Bergères, which will only further buttress the quality.

"The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude 1er Cru is bright and beautifully focused. The Latitude contains 40% perpetual reserve wine dating back to 2004. It is usually a bit more approachable on release, but this year's version clearly needs time to soften. Today, citrus, floral and mineral notes abound on the steely finish."
92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“Unfurling from the glass with scents of pear, acacia and pastry, it is more ample than the Longitude, with ripe yet vibrant acidity and a pillowy mousse. Disgorged in February 2024 with a dosage of three grams per liter, it will make for a great comparison when tasted alongside the Longitude.”
91 points, Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)

Like this grower’s Latitude, this is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (the vineyards are in Cramant, Avize, Oger and Vertus), yet the vineyards have thinner topsoils so the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The name refers to the vertical nature of the geographic locations of the vineyards as well as the style of wine resulting from the chalky soils of these sites. While Larmandier’s Latitude is expansive across the palate, the Longitude is all about minerality, line and raciness. William Kelley has called this wine “one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne”, and the high ratio of reserve wines should leave you with little doubt as to the quality on offer. This bottling is based on the 2021 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

“The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Longitude 1er Cru is a powerful, ample wine. The Longitude builds beautifully in the glass, creamy and textured, with tons of resonance. Pear, white pepper, dried flowers, mint and chalk are all delineated in a Champagne that blends power and tension. This is all class.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“A considerable increase in intensity and tension compared to Latitude, Larmandier's excellent NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Longitude is crafted from a 2021 vintage base (60%) and combined with a perpetual reserve component. Disgorged in April 2024 with two grams per liter dosage, it is medium-bodied, taut and incisive in personality. Sourced from the villages of Vertus, Oger, Avize, Cramant and Chouilly, it offers aromas of white flowers, citrus fruit and oyster shell. Tangy acidity, informed by the long and cool growing season, with mineral-laden undertones, leads to a chalky, long-lasting finish.”
92 points, Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée (Base 21. Disg. Feb 24)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée (Base 21. Disg. Feb 24)

The Rosé de Saignée is drawn mainly from what are thought to be the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Vertus (50+ years old) and one of this village’s very last 100% Pinot vineyards. In fact, the vineyard is a co-planted blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Gris, with both varieties contributing to this wine. The grapes are allowed to macerate for two to three days before the juice is drawn off, providing the wine’s colour and much of its body and flavour. This saignée technique is now rare in Champagne, primarily as it is a demanding method of vinification and requires grapes with an excellent degree of maturity. Most rosé in Champagne is made with the addition of a little red wine.

As with all the Larmandier wines, the rosé ferments naturally. While the wines were previously made in concrete egg and stainless steel, since the 2021 vintage, it has aged in large, used oak barrels for at least two years in the cellars. This is a single-vintage wine (2021) but not labelled as such as it is only aged for two years on lees. Again, this is one of Champagne’s wow wines, repeatedly compared to a Chambolle-Musigny. In short, it’s a Champagne that can stop drinkers in their tracks. A touch more delicate and racier than the 2020 before it, the new vintage is an exceptional release built on energy and crystalline tension. Although it drinks beautifully on its own, it has the depth to go with smoked or grilled salmon. Yes, do that—you won’t regret it!  This bottling was disgorged with a discreet dosage of 2 g/L.

“Vinified in 500-liter barrels, it reveals a bouquet of redcurrant, orange zest and cranberry mingling with spices. Medium-bodied and precise, marked by the vintage's acidic signature and concluding with a long, perfumed finish, it’s one of the more delicate editions of this cuvée—particularly when compared to its immediate predecessor’s exuberant aromatics and phenolic structure.”
94 points, Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée (Base 21. Disg. Feb 24)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2014 (Disg. Sep 23)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2014 (Disg. Sep 23)

Disg. Sep 23. First released in 1998, long before the concept of single-vineyard Champagnes became popular, this Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Little has changed, save for the name, which is now inspired by 1960-planted Bourron du Levant, the vineyard from which most of the grapes come. The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir Le Fond du Bâteau (with 85-year-old vines).

Both plots are at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe, layered wines. The old vines’ deep root system combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but you have more flesh, weight and body here.

The winemaking is similar across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines. Here, it is spontaneous fermentation and malolactic fermentation, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least eight years in bottle on lees. The 2014 was disgorged with 2 g/L dosage.

“The newly released 2014 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant unwinds in the glass with aromas of crisp stone fruit, freshly baked bread, white flowers, buttery pastry and clear honey. Full-bodied, pillowy and chiseled, with a sweet core of fruit, tangy acids and a penetrating, electric finish, it's a terrific success.”
95 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The 2014 Extra Brut Vieilles Vignes de Levant Grand Cru is a gorgeous, vinous Champagne. It emerges from 60-to-80-year-old vines on Cramant's east-facing slope. Tangerine peel, hazelnut, spice, menthol and dried flowers are all signs of a Champagne that has arrived at its peak of maturity. Even so, the balance here is exquisite. Readers seeking Champagne with a bit of bottle-age complexity will adore this. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: September 2023.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2014 (Disg. Sep 23)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. Sep 22)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. Sep 22)

Disgorged September 2022. This Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Nothing has changed save for the name, which is now inspired by the vineyard where most of the grapes come from, Bourron du Levant (planted in 1960). The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir of Le Fond du Bâteau (with 75-year-old vines).

Both plots are at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe, layered wines. The old vines’ deep root system combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but here you have more flesh, weight and body.

The winemaking across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines is similar. Here, it is spontaneous fermentation and malolactic conversion, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least eight years in bottle on lees. This release was disgorged with 2 g/L dosage.

Note: This review refers to a previous disgorgement. “The 2013 Extra Brut Vieille Vigne de Levant Grand Cru is a Champagne of real breadth and substance that captures the essence of these 50-70-year-old vines. Apricot, chamomile, dried flowers and a kiss of oak are all amplified. Vinous and creamy, the 2013 builds beautifully with time in the glass, showing tremendous character and pedigree. The 2013 was fermented and aged in a combination of neutral barrique and foudre. It's a super-classic Larmandier-Bernier Champagne. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: May, 2022.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The Larmandier family excelled in this cooler vintage, so it's unsurprising that the 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant has turned out beautifully. Wafting from the glass with notes of crisp yellow orchard fruit, brioche, white flowers, oyster shell and honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, deep, layered and incisive, with a tangy spine of acidity, terrific tension and a long, racy finish.”
96+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“Quite a buttery, round textural feel here, the core, yes, brine, fino sherry, but baked apple pie, cinnamon scrolls, lemon curd, dried stone fruits all filling out the shopping list of characters. Bubbles are bold, vigorous, invigorating but lend some extra creaminess too. Toasty and savoury elements build too. Complexity through vinous qualities here. Wonderful wine.”
95 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. Sep 22)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2015 (Disg. Sep 2022)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2015 (Disg. Sep 2022)

Disgorged September 2022. The Larmandier family vinifies fruit from two tiny plots in the heart of Avize (Chemin de Plivot planted in 1955, and Chemin de Flavigny planted in 1960) for this cuvée. Both are chalky parcels with very little topsoil, and both lie on the lower slopes of Avize (not far from Agrapart and Selosse’s La Fosse vineyard).

The winemaking is similar to the other cuvées, save for using smaller neutral barrels for the fermentations because of the smaller quantities of wine produced. The wines age in bottle for a minimum of five years and are then disgorged by hand with only 2 g/L dosage. It’s a stunning, racy example of Avize, a little deeper than Terre de Vertus, though more delicate and less fleshy than this grower’s Vieille Vigne du Levant.

“The 2015 Extra Brut Les Chemins d'Avize Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is a broad, ample Champagne that reflects both vinification in wood and time on the lees. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried flowers, chamomile, sage and spice build in the glass. Powerful and resonant, with no hard edges, the 2015 is terrific. It's also a throwback to the style of the time, and one I must say I like a lot. This is a fine effort for the year.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The 2015 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize opens in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, verbena, fresh pasty, vanilla pod and fresh herbs. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and chalky, with a vinous, rather concentrated profile and bright acids, it's a little compact out of the gates but appears to be built to age with grace.”
94+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“Creamy, distinctly saline, vigorously fresh. Sea spray, sugared almonds, green apple, lime, a light dusting of sweet spices, some floral notes, jasmine tea, ginger. It’s quite tight and squeaky in its textural feel, extreme length and persistence, brine and hazelnut to finish. Power then delicacy, purity, energy. Understated amazingness.”
96 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2015 (Disg. Sep 2022)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2016 (Disg. Apr 2024)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2016 (Disg. Apr 2024)

Disg. Apr 2024. Les Chemins d’Avize debuted in 2009. For this cuvée, the Larmandier family vinifies fruit from two tiny plots in the heart of Avize (Chemin de Plivot, planted in 1955, and Chemin de Flavigny, planted in 1960). Both are chalky parcels with very little topsoil and lie on the lower slopes of Avize, not far from Agrapart and Selosse’s La Fosse vineyard. “Initially, it was really tough for the vines to grow here, the soil is so hard,” Arthur Larmandier told us. “Now, they make really, really great wines.” 

The winemaking is similar to the other cuvées, save for the use of smaller, neutral barrels due to the smaller quantities of wine produced. The wines age in bottle for a minimum of five years and are then disgorged by hand with only 2 g/L dosage. It’s a stunning, racy example of Avize, a little deeper than Terre de Vertus, though more delicate and less fleshy than this grower’s Vieille Vigne du Levant.

“The 2016 Blanc de Blancs Les Chemins d'Avize, disgorged in April 2024 with a dosage of two grams per liter, is a particular success. Hailing from Le Chemin de Flavigny and Le Chemin de Plivot, located in a flat part of Avize at the bottom of the slope, these are some of the last plots to be harvested, as the fruit ripens more slowly here. Vinified in 20-hectoliter Stockinger vat and barrels of various sizes, it was matured on its lees for 10 months. Informed by the concentration of 50-year-old vines, lower-than-average yields due to mildew pressure and a late-ripening season, it opens from the glass with aromas of marzipan, baked bread, lemon zest and beeswax. Elegantly muscular and vividly chalky, it’s layered and harmonious, underpinned by bright acidity, leading to a precise, long-lasting finish. A more tense, higher-acid version than 2015, it has more in common with the personality of the 2013 vintage.”
96 points, Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate
“The 2016 Extra Brut Les Chemins d'Avize Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is a very pretty, exotic Champagne. White flowers, mint, chalk, white pepper and crushed rocks are finely sculpted. Low dosage of 2 grams per liter adds notable tension and verve throughout This savory, super-excessive Champagne will be a fine companion at the dinner table.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2016 (Disg. Apr 2024)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)

Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that wines from these sites (having more clay in the soil) tend to offer. In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large-format casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria). Fermentation and malolactic conversion take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Bottle mature for more than two years before disgorgement and dosage at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, 3 g/L) at least six months before release.

Despite its obvious crystalline and salty backdrop, in contrast to the Longitude cuvée, Latitude is a Champagne built on textural breadth and volume. Pure and mineral, this offers texture and stone-fruited depth without sacrificing the cut-diamond precision and citrusy, chalky energy that is a given at this address. Extremely versatile at the table, both entry cuvées work with a wide range of dishes, including fish, terrines, any chicken dish (particularly lemon chicken) and most cheeses (except blue or strong washed-rind). This bottling is based on the 2018 vintage, with the reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. May 2023) (1500ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. May 2023) (1500ml)

Disgorged May 2023. Like this grower’s Latitude, this is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (the vineyards are in Cramant, Avize, Oger and Vertus), yet the vineyards have thinner topsoils, and so the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The name here refers to the vertical nature of the geographic locations of the vineyards as well as the style of wine resulting from the chalky soils of these sites, i.e. a more linear, mineral wine. While Larmandier’s Latitude is expansive across the palate, the Longitude is all about minerality, line and raciness. William Kelley has called this wine “one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne”, and the high ratio of reserve wines (40% from their perpetual reserve started in 2004) should leave you with little doubt as to the quality on offer. This bottling is based on the 2018 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

“Delivering aromas of citrus pith, pastry cream, crisp orchard fruit and freshly baked bread, the latest rendition of Larmandier-Bernier's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Longitude is medium to full-bodied, chalky and incisive, with a rich core of fruit, racy acids and a pretty pinpoint mousse. Concluding with a long, saline finish, it's more chiseled than its Latitude counterpart and represents an appreciable step up.”
93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. May 2023) (1500ml)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée (Base 18. Disg. Apr 2021) (1500ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée (Base 18. Disg. Apr 2021) (1500ml)

The Rosé de Saignée is drawn mostly from what are thought to be the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Vertus (45 years old), and one of this village’s very last 100% Pinot vineyards. In fact, the vineyard is a co-planted blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Gris, with both varieties contributing to this wine. The grapes were allowed to macerate for a period before the juice was drawn off, providing the colour and much of the body and flavour for the wine. This saignée technique is now rare in Champagne, primarily as it is a demanding method of vinification and it requires grapes with an excellent degree of maturity. Most rosé in Champagne is made by the addition of a little red wine. Vive la difference!

As with all Larmandier’s wines it was naturally fermented. Part of this cuvée was raised in a Nomblot concrete egg and part in stainless steel, and more recently Larmandier has been also trialling amphora designed by Mizel Riouspeyrous from Domaine Arretxea. 

It’s one of Champagne’s wow wines, repeatedly compared to a Chambolle-Musigny. In short, it’s a Champagne that can stop drinkers in their tracks. The 2019 is a spellbinding release built on energy and crystalline tension. Although it drinks beautifully on its own, it has the depth to go with smoked or grilled salmon. Yes, do that—you won’t regret it! This bottling was disgorged with a discreet dosage of three grams per litre. It is a superb release that will be even better with a year or two in the cellar.

It’s one of Champagne’s wow wines, repeatedly compared to a Chambolle-Musigny. In short, it’s a Champagne that can stop drinkers in their tracks. The 2019 is a spellbinding release built on energy and crystalline tension. Although it drinks beautifully on its own, it has the depth to go with smoked or grilled salmon. Yes, do that—you won’t regret it! This bottling was disgorged with a discreet dosage of three grams per litre. It is a superb release that will be even better with a year or two in the cellar.

“Larmandier-Bernier's NV (2018) Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée is a very pretty wine. The style is a bit more floral and savory, with less vinous intensity than some previous editions, but plenty of ethereal nuance. This is an especially understated style. Dosage is 3 grams per liter.”
93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The NV Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée (2018 base) will soon be disgorged, and readers will be able to identify it by its deeper, unusually saturated hue without looking at the small print. Bursting with aromas of pear, plums, orange rind and sweet berries, it's medium to full-bodied, round and enveloping, with a ripe core of fruit and the most phenolic presence I've tasted in this perennially superb cuvée. That makes this 2018 base a more vinous, gastronomic wine, which will offer interesting possibilities at the table.”
94 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The village of Vertus is unusual in the Côte des Blancs for playing host to a historical plantation of Pinot Noir. Here it is assembled with a little Pinot Gris by Côte des Blancs stalwarts Pierre and Sophie Larmandier into a striking, deep-cherry rosé de saignée (made by macerating the Pinot Noir skins in the juice at press). Absolutely bursting with strawberry and floral tones yet still manages to retain a linear, focused energy and supple texture that’s quite unusual for the style. A Côte des Blancs original.”
93 points, Tom Hewson, Decanter
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée (Base 18. Disg. Apr 2021) (1500ml)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2015 (Disg. May 23) (1500ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2015 (Disg. May 23) (1500ml)

Terre de Vertus is one of three single-terroir Blanc de Blancs produced at this estate and is certainly the most famous. It is from a parcel of vines on the chalky mid-slope of Vertus, traversing the 1er Cru lieux-dits of Les Barillers and Les Faucherets. These sites produce intensely mineral wines that recall the best of Le Mesnil (to the north) in their chalky raciness and drive.

This fermented naturally, with roughly 60% fermented and aged in neutral barrique and the other 40% in large Stockinger casks. Malolactic conversion began spontaneously, and the wines were left on their lees for nearly a year. After the second fermentation, the wine aged in bottle for another six years before being disgorged. There is no dosage in order to respect the purity of the terroir. The result is one of the most distinctive and mineral wines of the entire Champagne region—and one of the benchmark wines of the great grower movement. 

Since the mid-‘90s, this wine has always been non-dosé—long before it was fashionable. The Larmandiers made the decision because this particular terroir (when farmed in their way: old vines, biodynamics, low yields, etc.) works best without any additions. Still very young and brimming with textural richness and energy, the new release shows a little more flex than the previous vintage. Courtesy of an especially low-yielding year high in dry extract, the palate is buoyed with freshness and the chalky finish is incredibly long and scintillating. Try it with oysters, terrine, hard cheeses, roast chicken or grilled white fish. 

“The 2015 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus continues to show well, offering up generous aromas of peach, orange oil, ripe melon, white cherries, buttery pastry, orange oil and dried white flowers. Full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with a vinous, muscular profile and a long, gently mordant finish, it's one of the more powerful wines in the range.”
93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2015 (Disg. May 23) (1500ml)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. May 22) (1500ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. May 22) (1500ml)

This Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Nothing has changed save for the name, which is now inspired by the vineyard where most of the grapes come from, Bourron du Levant (planted in 1960). The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir of Le Fond du Bâteau (with 75-year-old vines). 

Both plots are at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe, layered wines. The old vines’ deep root system combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but here you have more flesh, weight and body. 

The winemaking across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines is similar. Here, it is spontaneous fermentation and malolactic conversion, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least eight years in bottle on lees. This release was disgorged with 2 g/L dosage.

“The 2013 Extra Brut Vieille Vigne de Levant Grand Cru is a Champagne of real breadth and substance that captures the essence of these 50-70-year-old vines. Apricot, chamomile, dried flowers and a kiss of oak are all amplified. Vinous and creamy, the 2013 builds beautifully with time in the glass, showing tremendous character and pedigree. The 2013 was fermented and aged in a combination of neutral barrique and foudre. Its a super-classic Larmandier-Bernier Champagne. Dosage is 2 grams per liter.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The Larmandier family excelled in this cooler vintage, so it's unsurprising that the 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant has turned out beautifully. Wafting from the glass with notes of crisp yellow orchard fruit, brioche, white flowers, oyster shell and honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, deep, layered and incisive, with a tangy spine of acidity, terrific tension and a long, racy finish.”
96+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. May 22) (1500ml)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. Oct 2022)(3000ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. Oct 2022)(3000ml)

Disgorged October 2022. Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that the wines from these sites (having more clay in the soil) tend to offer.
In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large-format casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria). Fermentation and malolactic conversion take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Bottles are matured for more than two years, manually disgorged and dosed at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, four grams per litre) at least six months before release.
Pure and mineral, this offers texture and stone-fruited depth without sacrificing the cut-diamond precision and citrusy, chalky energy that is a given at this address. Extremely versatile at the table, both entry cuvées can work with a wide range of dishes from fish, terrines, any chicken dish (particularly lemon chicken) and most cheeses (except blue or strong washed-rind). This bottling is based on the 2018 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

This review pertains to a previous disgorgement: "The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude 1er Cru is a powerful, driving wine that exemplifies the house style at Larmandier-Bernier. There's real texture and breadth here. Citrus, dried almond, chamomile and crushed flowers build in a beautifully resonant, expressive Champagne that shows the natural richness that is common in the southern part of Vertus. This release is 60% 2018 and 40% a perpetual reserve that goes back to 2004. It's fabulous. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged April, 2021."
93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 18 Disg. Oct 2022)(3000ml)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Oct 2022) (6000ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Oct 2022) (6000ml)

Disgorged October 2022. Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that the wines from these sites (having more clay in the soil) tend to offer.
In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large-format casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria). Fermentation and malolactic conversion take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Bottles are matured for more than two years, manually disgorged and dosed at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, four grams per litre) at least six months before release.
Pure and mineral, this offers texture and stone-fruited depth without sacrificing the cut-diamond precision and citrusy, chalky energy that is a given at this address. Extremely versatile at the table, both entry cuvées can work with a wide range of dishes from fish, terrines, any chicken dish (particularly lemon chicken) and most cheeses (except blue or strong washed-rind). This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Oct 2022) (6000ml)

“In a region that still produces too many meager, brittle wines, Larmandier-Bernier reminds us of the plenitude and texture that great Champagne can offer.” Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate

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