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Théo Dancer: 2024 from a Burgundy Prodigy

Théo Dancer: 2024 from a Burgundy Prodigy

“Readers keen to remain on Burgundy’s cutting edge will want to secure some [Roc Breïa]!” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 

 

Théo Dancer’s latest releases are the most exciting we have shipped so far. Every year they have progressed to be closer in quality and style to the Domaine Vincent Dancer wines, and today they sit proud in the range—a great way to access the glories of this cult grower.

 

The Roc Breïa wines come from a single, old-vine vineyard in the Mâcon-Bray area of the Mâconnais. This vineyard is meticulously managed by Théo and his team. The cooler terroir of this site, combined with Dancer’s perfectionist attention to detail, results in chiselled, vibrant, and strikingly pure wines. Meanwhile, the négoce wines under the Théo Dancer label are simply brilliant this year. These wines have offered Dancer the chance to collaborate with organic growers he deeply respects, as well as the freedom to explore grape varieties beyond his Domaine: Aligoté, Savagnin, Gamay, and Grenache. While each cuvée reflects the Domaine’s signature style in that they are all perfumed, fleshy and fine-boned, they equally express their own distinct regional and vineyard character. Above everything else, they are all super delicious!

 

Production remains extremely limited. The largest cuvée reaches only around 300 cases, with most wines made in significantly smaller quantities. We strongly recommend them to you. 

The Wines

Roc Breïa Mâcon Villages 2024

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Roc Breïa Mâcon Villages 2024

The Chardonnay is drawn from vines planted in the mid-1940s and mid-1970s. With assistance from vigneron Bastien Cubillé, Dancer is well on the way to raising the vineyard to his standards, bringing the soils and vines into balance, planting cover crops, cultivating inter-vine, etc. The winemaking is very simple. The Chardonnay is pressed as bunches to used 500-litre barrels for fermentation, and the wine is bottled unfiltered with a tiny (20 mg/L) addition of sulphur. Instead of taking the Mâcon-Bray appellation, Dancer has chosen to label the wine Vin de France, so he has no restrictions regarding picking dates. As for the wine, forget any stereotypes you hold about Mâcon; this is a pure and linear white Burgundy, atypically fresh and racy for the region. Yes, it has texture and weight, but the flavours are very much in the citrus and nectarine world and far less sun-kissed than what we often see from this part of Burgundy.  

Roc Breïa Mâcon Villages 2024

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Roc Breïa Bourgogne Rouge 2024

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Roc Breïa Bourgogne Rouge 2024

The Roc Breïa Pinot Noir vines are a touch younger than the Chardonnay and were planted between 1970 and 1985. This wine is vinified with some 50% whole bunch, followed by maturation in used 500-litre barrels. Dancer makes a rigorous barrel selection, eliminating anything he doesn’t like from the final blend. The wine is made in the same minimalist earth-to-glass spirit as Dancer’s Côte d’Or reds under the Vincent Dancer label: no yeast additions, very low sulphur and no filtration. The 2024 is utterly delicious, packed with florals, red fruits and a lick of oak. There are plenty of fine tannins, too, and terrific length. Again, it loves air, getting better in a decanter or a big glass. And it soars with full-flavoured foods like game birds. Decant, serve, and fall in love. 

Roc Breïa Bourgogne Rouge 2024

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Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2024

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Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2024

Théo Dancer has established his own micro-négoce sourcing tiny quantities of fruit from four special vineyards across France. Théo has always told us that his micro-negoce project is hugely important for him. It gives him the chance to work with other great growers; At the same time, he gets to explore other grape varieties he loves but does not work with in the domaine vineyards. 

From 2022, Dancer started working with a plot of organic, old-vine Aligoté in Meursault, and the quality has shot through the roof. It’s made the same way as the Vincent Dancer whites, with the fruit fermenting naturally with all its lees. There is no stirring, and the wine matures in large-format barrels over winter before resting in vat. It was racked just once and bottled unfiltered. As always with this wine, there’s lovely freshness and chalky drive to go with the generosity and complexity of the fruit. Simply great Aligoté. 

Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2024

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Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2024 (1500ml)

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Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2024 (1500ml)

Théo Dancer has established his own micro-négoce sourcing tiny quantities of fruit from four special vineyards across France. Théo has always told us that his micro-negoce project is hugely important for him. It gives him the chance to work with other great growers; At the same time, he gets to explore other grape varieties he loves but does not work with in the domaine vineyards. 

From 2022, Dancer started working with a plot of organic, old-vine Aligoté in Meursault, and the quality has shot through the roof. It’s made the same way as the Vincent Dancer whites, with the fruit fermenting naturally with all its lees. There is no stirring, and the wine matures in large-format barrels over winter before resting in vat. It was racked just once and bottled unfiltered. As always with this wine, there’s lovely freshness and chalky drive to go with the generosity and complexity of the fruit. Simply great Aligoté. 

Théo Dancer Bourgogne Aligoté 2024 (1500ml)

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2024

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2024

Théo Dancer has established his own micro-négoce sourcing tiny quantities of fruit from four special vineyards across France. Théo has always told us that his micro-negoce project is hugely important for him. It gives him the chance to work with other great growers; At the same time, he gets to explore other grape varieties he loves but does not work with in the domaine vineyards. 

Ouillé (topped up). Dancer sources his Savagnin from a conscientious farmer in Rotalier, the same town as Ganevat and Julien Labet. The vines sit on chalky clay soils over Bajocian limestone subsoil. Dancer wants to emphasise purity and terroir rather than flor-aging notes, so the fruit is pressed directly to large oak barrels with no racking until the completion of fermentation, and the barrels are kept topped up throughout maturation. This is a fantastic rendition of this wine. It’s citrusy and tightly wound with some powdery grip, yet there is also a lot going on. With air, notes of lemon curd, ginger, spiced grapefruit and hints of pine sap emerge. Great drive, length and finesse; this is a talented Burgundy grower’s take on Jura. Magic. Don’t serve it cold, and don’t be scared to decant it if you’re serving it young.

Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2024

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2024 (1500ml)

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2024 (1500ml)

Théo Dancer has established his own micro-négoce sourcing tiny quantities of fruit from four special vineyards across France. Théo has always told us that his micro-negoce project is hugely important for him. It gives him the chance to work with other great growers; At the same time, he gets to explore other grape varieties he loves but does not work with in the domaine vineyards. 

Ouillé (topped up). Dancer sources his Savagnin from a conscientious farmer in Rotalier, the same town as Ganevat and Julien Labet. The vines sit on chalky clay soils over Bajocian limestone subsoil. Dancer wants to emphasise purity and terroir rather than flor-aging notes, so the fruit is pressed directly to large oak barrels with no racking until the completion of fermentation, and the barrels are kept topped up throughout maturation. This is a fantastic rendition of this wine. It’s citrusy and tightly wound with some powdery grip, yet there is also a lot going on. With air, notes of lemon curd, ginger, spiced grapefruit and hints of pine sap emerge. Great drive, length and finesse; this is a talented Burgundy grower’s take on Jura. Magic. Don’t serve it cold, and don’t be scared to decant it if you’re serving it young.  

Théo Dancer Vin de France Jurassique Savagnin 2024 (1500ml)

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2024

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2024

Théo Dancer has established his own micro-négoce sourcing tiny quantities of fruit from four special vineyards across France. Théo has always told us that his micro-negoce project is hugely important for him. It gives him the chance to work with other great growers; At the same time, he gets to explore other grape varieties he loves but does not work with in the domaine vineyards. 

Théo Dancer’s Gamay is sourced from an organic grower in Chiroubles. The winemaking remains the same as previous releases, with the grapes fully destemmed and the wine fermented and matured in amphora and old cask. It’s interesting to note that Dancer’s fellow Burgundian, Benoît Moreau, also makes Chiroubles using a similar, non-carbonic technique. The belief is that a longer, ‘Pinot-like’ fermentation allows the wine to transmit more of its site. Either way, the result is impressive, with lovely purity and gorgeous aromatics.  

Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2024

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2024 (1500ml)

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2024 (1500ml)

Théo Dancer has established his own micro-négoce sourcing tiny quantities of fruit from four special vineyards across France. Théo has always told us that his micro-negoce project is hugely important for him. It gives him the chance to work with other great growers; At the same time, he gets to explore other grape varieties he loves but does not work with in the domaine vineyards. 

Théo Dancer’s Gamay is sourced from an organic grower in Chiroubles. The winemaking remains the same as previous releases, with the grapes fully destemmed and the wine fermented and matured in amphora and old cask. It’s interesting to note that Dancer’s fellow Burgundian, Benoît Moreau, also makes Chiroubles using a similar, non-carbonic technique. The belief is that a longer, ‘Pinot-like’ fermentation allows the wine to transmit more of its site. Either way, the result is impressive, with lovely purity and gorgeous aromatics.  

Théo Dancer Vin de France Botanica Gamay 2024 (1500ml)

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2024

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2024

Théo Dancer has established his own micro-négoce sourcing tiny quantities of fruit from four special vineyards across France. Théo has always told us that his micro-negoce project is hugely important for him. It gives him the chance to work with other great growers; At the same time, he gets to explore other grape varieties he loves but does not work with in the domaine vineyards. 

Théo Dancer, like his father, is a big fan of Grenache. The vineyard he works with is in Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes (between Orange and Montélimar) near Cairanne. It’s a beautiful, shaded vineyard that looks out to Mont Ventoux, and the soils are littered with smooth galets roulés (the rounded stones that dominate so much of the southern Rhône). The vineyard has been managed organically for years—a key attraction for Théo. A remarkable and unique interpretation, this 2024 is an engaging whole-bunch Grenache through a Burgundian lens. 

Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2024

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2024 (1500ml)

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Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2024 (1500ml)

Théo Dancer has established his own micro-négoce sourcing tiny quantities of fruit from four special vineyards across France. Théo has always told us that his micro-negoce project is hugely important for him. It gives him the chance to work with other great growers; At the same time, he gets to explore other grape varieties he loves but does not work with in the domaine vineyards. 

Théo Dancer, like his father, is a big fan of Grenache. The vineyard he works with is in Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes (between Orange and Montélimar) near Cairanne. It’s a beautiful, shaded vineyard that looks out to Mont Ventoux, and the soils are littered with smooth galets roulés (the rounded stones that dominate so much of the southern Rhône). The vineyard has been managed organically for years—a key attraction for Théo. A remarkable and unique interpretation, this 2024 is an engaging whole-bunch Grenache through a Burgundian lens. 

Théo Dancer Vin de France Aragón Grenache 2024 (1500ml)

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