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Domaine de Marcoux

Purity and Finesse From One of Châteauneuf-du-Pape's Benchmark Estates
Domaine de Marcoux

“The Vieilles Vignes is one of the great Châteauneuf-du-Papes.” John Livingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhône 

 

Few producers have done more to redefine modern Châteauneuf-du-Pape than Domaine de Marcoux. Long before biodynamics became fashionable, the Armenier family was quietly farming their vineyards without chemicals, becoming the first estate in the appellation to convert to biodynamic viticulture nearly three decades ago. Since Sophie and Catherine Armenier assumed full control of the Domaine in the mid-1990s, Marcoux has become one of the Southern Rhône's most admired addresses, producing wines of remarkable elegance, perfume and precision.

 

Today, Sophie's son, Vincent Estevenin, continues the family's commitment to biodynamic farming while further increasing biodiversity throughout the vineyards. In the cellar, the philosophy remains unchanged: native fermentations, gentle extraction, concrete fermentation and maturation in large old foudres preserve the purity and character of each site.

 

Despite its reputation, Marcoux remains remarkably small, producing just two to four thousand cases each year from an exceptional collection of old vineyards across Châteauneuf-du-Pape. What has long distinguished the Domaine is its pursuit of elegance. In a region often associated with richness and power, Marcoux has always favoured perfume, freshness and balance.

 

The latest release once again showcases the breadth of the estate, from the vibrant Côtes du Rhône and increasingly impressive Lirac La Lorentine through to the benchmark Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge and the magnificent Vieilles Vignes. Across the range, these wines remain true to the philosophy that has made Marcoux one of the Southern Rhône's benchmark estates: purity, perfume and remarkable balance.

The Wines

Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2024

Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2024

La Revue du Vin de France is not wrong when it writes: “[The Domaine’s white wines] regularly establish themselves among the most beautiful of the appellation; cultivation has a lot to do with it.” Marcoux’s Châteauneuf Blanc is one of the great whites of France’s south. It is atypically Roussanne-dominant (up to 70%), blended with Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc and Clairette. Most of the fruit hails from two parcels: Les Esqueirons, where the cool, limestone-based soils are perfect for white grapes, and Les Bosquets, where the Bourboulenc brings citric freshness and drive to the layered Roussanne.

In the cellar, the grapes are pressed as whole bunches, and ferment naturally in mostly steel tanks. An ever-increasing portion of the wine is now raised in low-impact Stockinger casks, and some sandstone amphorae have entered the mix.

“As always, a blend of 70% Roussanne and 30% Bourboulenc, the 2024 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc opens with aromas of white fruits, ripe orchard fruit, spices and clove. Medium- to full-bodied, concentrated, ample and satiny in texture, it has a rich core of fruit and concludes in a long, dense finish that ultimately lacks a bit of energy and lift. It remains a very good wine.”
93 points, Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2024
Domaine de Marcoux Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2023

Domaine de Marcoux Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2023

Marcoux’s silky and perfumed Côtes-du-Rhône was traditionally drawn from two small, biodynamically farmed parcels of old vines on the edge of the Châteauneuf vineyards in the northern sector near Orange. There’s one hectare at Maucoil (planted in the 1930s) and another at Bois Lauzon (planted in 1965). Today, two newer parcels, close to the winery in the north of Châteauneuf, have joined the blend. The wine is a blend of Grenache and Syrah, with a little Mourvèdre. The grapes are sorted both in the vineyard and in the cellar—not all Côtes-du-Rhône is created equal. Harvesting is always done by hand, and fermentation takes place in cement tanks using wild yeast. As always, it is a cut above, and a delicious introduction to the Domaine’s wines.

Domaine de Marcoux Côtes du Rhône Rouge 2023
Domaine de Marcoux Lirac La Lorentine 2023

Domaine de Marcoux Lirac La Lorentine 2023

Marcoux’s biodynamically farmed Lorentine vineyard lies in the heart of the Lirac appellation on the red clay, limestone and galet soils of Saint-Laurent-des-Arbres (in the valley of Balouvière). Over many years, the Armenier family has slowly peeled back the layers of Lirac’s neglected terroir. They have restored life to the soils through cultivation and organic/biodynamic practice. Today, they produce wines worthy of this excellent terroir. In 2023, this usually Grenache-dominant blend was crafted from 40% Syrah and 40% Mourvèdre with 20% Grenache. The wines fermented with indigenous yeasts and were raised for 15 months in concrete, foudres and old wooden barrels.

Domaine de Marcoux Lirac La Lorentine 2023
Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2023

Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2023

Marcoux’s Châteauneuf is drawn from 13 parcels of vines, biodynamically farmed and dotted across the appellation. The famous Crau plateau boasts a concentration of quality parcels, enhanced by the diverse soils of numerous sites. To the east of Chateauneuf proper, north of Le Crau, Chabonnières contributes sandy soils and produces ethereal grapes. Flung out to the far west L’Arnesque is settled on stony galets, with a sister site directly north of town in Les Bosques. To the south-west, Beaurenard and Les Esquirons form a line of limestone and white clay. The deep south sites of Les Galimardes, Les Serres and Les Plagnes show a shock of red in their clay and gravel soils, and grow equally intense fruit. This patchwork means Marcoux can produce a wine that holistically reflects the Châteauneuf terroir. It also allows the Domaine to craft balanced wines year in, year out, as each parcel is vinified separately before blending. Any parcels that do not fit the bill are typically declassified to Côtes-du-Rhône or sold to the négoces. 

“The 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has come together nicely, unwinding with pronounced strawberry, dried herbs, crushed violets and stemmy gradations. Despite the elevated concentration and richness, the 2023 doesn’t feel cloying or heavy at all, which can partially be traced back to higher-than-usual yields of around 30 hl/ha due to the generous growing season. Full-bodied, round and fruit-toned, the 2023 is a beauty.”
92 points, Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous
Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2023
Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2023

Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2023

Christened by Robert Parker as “one of the world’s truly magnificent wines,” this rarity is among the most limited and sought-after wines of Châteauneuf. The Vielle Vignes fruit comes from three crown-jewel parcels of exceptionally old vines in Charbonnières and Les Esqueirons. Charbonnières (planted in 1900) lies on the northern side of the Crau plateau, mostly on sandy soils with molasse sandstone. The vines are nearly all Grenache with a few rows of Mourvèdre. The plot in Les Esqueirons lies behind the famous chateau ruins on the hill's western side. Here, the Grenache vines (and some Roussanne) are rooted in limestone and white clay. Some were planted in 1900, and the rest in 1949. The fruit sees the same minimalist treatment as the classic bottling. The taste simply reflects the fruit of these ancient vines and their terroirs. The Domaine does not use new oak throughout the maturation; the wines ferment naturally and are raised for 18 months in concrete and large oak foudres before being bottled unfiltered. The Vieilles Vignes is only produced in great vintages—which, in a way, says it all.

“The 2023 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is exquisite, bursting with a beautifully perfumed bouquet of peonies, rose petals, dark berries and exotic spices. Medium- to full-bodied, supple and layered, it delivers a fleshy, unctuous core of fruit enlivened by bright acids and framed by powdery, velvety tannins. Complete and harmonious, it concludes with a long, ethereal and perfumed finish. This pure Grenache Noir is a standout in what is a remarkably consistent 2023 portfolio from the estate.”
96 points, Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2023

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