There’s just a single Pinot Noir released from Place of Changing Winds from the 2023 vintage, and it’s one of the most seductive this vineyard has yet produced. As Rob explains, the cool, late season meant the style and personality of the vineyard’s Beyond the Forest and High Density parcels fell a whisker short of receiving their own label. Instead, he and Rémi opted to create the best blend from the best ferments produced across the three-hectare POCW vineyard (and declassified whatever didn’t make the cut). “We only started flowering on Christmas Eve and didn’t begin harvesting until the third week of April,” says Rob. “Ultimately, it was a year that taught us that our place, our vines and our practice can produce wines of interest, even in a very cold year.” Once again, the bunches were small, mostly between 30 and 70 grams, and POCW handpicked every parcel individually, as each plot arrived at maturity. In the end, just over 10 tonnes of Pinot was harvested—with an average across the vineyard of just over 260 grams of fruit per vine. That’s around 25 hectolitres per hectare; for context, this is well below the permitted levels in Grand Cru Burgundy. The low yield of small bunches was precisely why the Estate was able to produce such a compelling Pinot in such a cold year. If you are reading this offer, there’s a good chance you are familiar with Rob’s goal to produce the greatest, most intense wines of place he can from POCW’s small, three-hectare vineyard. To achieve this aim, his team follow a system of agronomy that requires a crazy level of manual labour. To cut a long story short, the boundary-pushing level of practice here remains unique in Australia. This aromatic and intense Pinot represents another exciting chapter in this young project’s fascinating story.