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Clos des Goisses

The New Releases from “Arguably the Single Greatest Vineyard Site in Champagne”
Clos des Goisses

“During my recent visit, in the company of Charles and his son François, I witnessed this qualitative evolution firsthand, and I must say that the 2015 Clos des Goisses stands out as one of the most precise and impressive of the “modern era,” while their rosé Champagnes are equally splendid. I strongly urge readers who appreciate saline, gastronomic wines to explore the entire range from this outstanding house.” Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate

 

“From a top vintage, Clos des Goisses is one of the most exciting experiences Champagne can offer,” argues Champagne authority Peter Liem. Today, we’re delighted to offer another of those top vintages from the jewel in Philipponnat’s crown. The deep, chiselled 2015 certainly marks a change in tone coming after the cooler 2014 and the long, classic season of 2013. But then, as Charles Philipponnat will tell you, Clos des Goisses should not be your first port of call if you prize elegance above all else. “We don’t necessarily search for elegance in Clos des Goisses,” he says. “We want power and balance; we want something with muscle.”

 

This striking Champagne delivers power, balance and muscle in spades. What makes this site so special is its capacity to retain freshness even in vintages that are, on average, hotter than ever. The wine has signature freshness and a sustained sense of acidity that comes from the pure chalk rock, even in vintages that might appear analytically low in acidity. A protean vineyard, then. More so, the ripeness is matched with a distinctive mineral character. “It’s the special kind of balance we get from very ripe grapes on very, very calcareous soil,” says Philipponnat. “It’s both fruity and fresh at the same time, and it retains sufficient acidity. Because the terroir gives us that, that’s where we take it.”

 

The 2015 comprises 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay. For the first time, every wine in the blend fermented in oak, and, as usual, no malolactic fermentation occurred. Unlike many in Champagne who picked most of their fruit in August, Charles deliberately held out for an early September harvest. The reward: a great, complete wine from an inimitable vineyard that Philipponnat has firing on all cylinders.


Alongside the 2015, we have been offered a precious few bottles of the Clos des Goisses lieu-dit Les Cintres: a single-plot, old-vine Pinot Noir from what is considered the heart of the vineyard. This wine comes from 2012, a much-lauded year that Charles Philipponnat considers one of the best in a century. The clos is also the source of one of Champagne’s rarest and most unique rosés. From a cool, incisive vintage, the 2014 we offer today is as exciting as we have tasted from this grower. Finally, we offer the latest disgorgement from Philipponnat’s far-sighted cellar-release program. If your budget stretches into prestige territory, these wines are some of the greatest and most unique Champagnes money can buy.

The Wines

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024)

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024)

78% Pinot Noir, 22% Chardonnay. The majestic Clos des Goisses vineyard rises steeply from the edge of the Marne River and is planted to 3.5 hectares of Pinot Noir and two hectares of Chardonnay. This historically revered, south-facing slope was the region’s first to be bottled as a single-vineyard wine. With a focus on precise viticulture, old mass-selection vines, moderate yields and ripe fruit at harvest, the wine has never been better.

The slope on this, the so-called Mont de Mareuil, is relatively steep, at between 30 and 45 degrees. The vineyard's altitude climbs from 85 to 130 metres, facing the midday sun and basking in the reflected glory of the River Marne at its foot. The Clos des Goisses' extremely chalky soils, aspect and atypical warmth—the average growing season temperature here is 1.5°C higher than most of Champagne—result in one of Champagne’s most powerful and intense wines.

Be sure to serve these wines in a proper wine glass, ideally not too cold, and don’t be scared to decant them. In short, treat it like a fine white wine—for that’s what it is! It’s also a serious food wine and can stand up to a wide range of dishes, including roast chicken or pork, game birds, sausages, hard cheeses, pâtés, terrines, etc.

“The 2015 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is a powerful, resonant wine, just as it was last year. In 2015, all of the lots were vinified in oak, which lends notable textural resonance and poise. Pear, spicecake, ginger, dried flowers and a kiss of oak are all dialed up. There is an underlying vegetal note lurking beneath, typical of the year, but it's nicely integrated. The long finish is striking. The 2015 opens beautifully with air, gaining in both precision and tension. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2024.”
96 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“Surpassing the 2010, the 2015 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is gorgeous, evoking aromas of pear, mirabelle, spices, honey, brioche and perfectly ripe orchard fruits intertwined with delicate notes of iodine. Full-bodied, vinous and concentrated, it's layered and dense with remarkable depth at the core combined with racy acids and a structured, perfectly balanced mid-palate. Slightly austere at this stage, it finishes long and sappy with a licorice-inflected aftertaste. This blend of 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay, disgorged in March 2024 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Readers eager to experience this superb Champagne at its peak should be patient.”
97+ points, Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
“This is very fine and crystalline with powerful lemon and cherry fruit. Such power here: bright with lemon and mandarin, showing great precision. This wine has a real dynamic range to it, with a touch of toastiness alongside the finely structured cherry and lemon notes. This needs time but already shows its potential.”
97 points, Jamie Goode Wine Anorak
Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024)
Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024) (1500ml)

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024) (1500ml)

78% Pinot Noir, 22% Chardonnay. The majestic Clos des Goisses vineyard rises steeply from the edge of the Marne River and is planted to 3.5 hectares of Pinot Noir and two hectares of Chardonnay. This historically revered, south-facing slope was the region’s first to be bottled as a single-vineyard wine. With a focus on precise viticulture, old mass-selection vines, moderate yields and ripe fruit at harvest, the wine has never been better.

The slope on this, the so-called Mont de Mareuil, is relatively steep, at between 30 and 45 degrees. The vineyard's altitude climbs from 85 to 130 metres, facing the midday sun and basking in the reflected glory of the River Marne at its foot. The Clos des Goisses' extremely chalky soils, aspect and atypical warmth—the average growing season temperature here is 1.5°C higher than most of Champagne—result in one of Champagne’s most powerful and intense wines.

Be sure to serve these wines in a proper wine glass, ideally not too cold, and don’t be scared to decant them. In short, treat it like a fine white wine—for that’s what it is! It’s also a serious food wine and can stand up to a wide range of dishes, including roast chicken or pork, game birds, sausages, hard cheeses, pâtés, terrines, etc.

“The 2015 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is a powerful, resonant wine, just as it was last year. In 2015, all of the lots were vinified in oak, which lends notable textural resonance and poise. Pear, spicecake, ginger, dried flowers and a kiss of oak are all dialed up. There is an underlying vegetal note lurking beneath, typical of the year, but it's nicely integrated. The long finish is striking. The 2015 opens beautifully with air, gaining in both precision and tension. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2024.”
96 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“Surpassing the 2010, the 2015 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is gorgeous, evoking aromas of pear, mirabelle, spices, honey, brioche and perfectly ripe orchard fruits intertwined with delicate notes of iodine. Full-bodied, vinous and concentrated, it's layered and dense with remarkable depth at the core combined with racy acids and a structured, perfectly balanced mid-palate. Slightly austere at this stage, it finishes long and sappy with a licorice-inflected aftertaste. This blend of 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay, disgorged in March 2024 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Readers eager to experience this superb Champagne at its peak should be patient.”
97+ points, Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
“This is very fine and crystalline with powerful lemon and cherry fruit. Such power here: bright with lemon and mandarin, showing great precision. This wine has a real dynamic range to it, with a touch of toastiness alongside the finely structured cherry and lemon notes. This needs time but already shows its potential.”
97 points, Jamie Goode Wine Anorak
Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2015 (Disg. Mar 2024) (1500ml)
Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Les Cintres Extra Brut 2012 (Disg. Jun 2022)

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Les Cintres Extra Brut 2012 (Disg. Jun 2022)

100% Pinot Noir. In exceptional years, this pure Pinot Noir cuvée emerges from the heart of Clos des Goisses, from the adjoining plots of Les Petits Cintres and Les Grands Cintres. According to Charles Philliponnat, these are the oldest and best-exposed plots on the entire hill, home to 70-year-old mass-selection cuttings of unknown origins. Known for yielding exceptionally concentrated fruit, the 2012 was fully barrel fermented and underwent no malolactic fermentation. It was disgorged after 10 years on lees and finished with a 4.5 g/L dosage. This cuvée is deliberately crafted in limited quantities and produced using just a third of the harvest volume to avoid weakening the classic cuvée.

“Beautiful and intense aromas of dried apples, spices, crushed stones, walnuts, brioche and hints of salted caramel. It’s so deep and full of flavor, evolving on the palate, layered and seamless. Tight, fine bubbles. Energy, intensity and structure combined to give a long and driven finish. 100% pinot noir. Disgorged June 2022. 2,176 bottles produced. Drink or hold.”
98 points, James Suckling, jamessuckling.com
“From an outstanding vintage, the 2012 Les Cintres extra brut derives from vines planted on two parcels inside the Clos des Goisses walled vineyard planted with Pinot Noir. It possesses a multifaceted, intense bouquet with aromas of pear, spring flowers, cherries, ripe orchard fruits, crushed stones, honey and rose petals, followed by a full-bodied, fleshy and racy palate that’s simultaneously crystalline and pure with a splendid core of fruit, racy acids and a long, endless finish. Presently, it stands as the most exceptional Les Cintres rendition. Dosage was 4.5 grams per liter.”
97+ points, Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Les Cintres Extra Brut 2012 (Disg. Jun 2022)
Champagne Philipponnat Clos de Goisses Juste Rosé 2014 (Disg. Mar 2024)

Champagne Philipponnat Clos de Goisses Juste Rosé 2014 (Disg. Mar 2024)

80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. Juste Rosé was added to the portfolio in 1999. Rather than creating a flamboyantly bold wine, as might have been expected from the warm south-facing site, Charles Philipponnat opted for a more refined and pale-coloured wine—‘hardly a rosé’, as its name suggests. The wine is based on a similar blend to the Clos des Goisses Blanc, with an addition of Pinot from several Clos des Goisses lieux-dits, including La Dure, Le Collet, Les 28 Verges, Les Petits Cintres and Les Jolivets Noirs. Only 2,000-3,000 bottles are produced each year, and the wine ages for nine years before release. The rosé is now made with 30% saignée to allow control over the wine’s hue and structure, and the winemaking supports a texture that is at once supple and exceptionally graceful.

“The 2014 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé is terrific. This is the second vintage where the Pinot component includes 30% Pinot Noir (the highest here) done with a light saignée (rather than blended in as still red wine), which results in a Rosé with striking persistence. Cranberry, white pepper, chalk, mint and pink grapefruit lend complexity. More than anything else, though, I am so impressed with the wine's depth and the overall direction for this bottling. What a delight. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2024.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“‘Juste’ in this context means ‘hardly’. The first edition in 1999 was made from a base wine that was a blend of red and white wines. After a few years, they decided to concentrate the red wine in the blend by bleeding it, because they found that a longer maceration caused some green notes and extra tannins that they didn’t want. But they found that the saignée wine they produced by bleeding was very interesting, and from then on used the skin-fermented red for the rosé NV and 1522 rosé, while they saved the bled juice for this wine, and they’ve found it ages very well. This spends 24 h-36 h on skins. Pale pink with a hint of orange, this is precise and linear, with lovely crystalline fruit. There’s some red cherry and cranberry but also some lemon with a tangy finish and astonishing precision.”
96 points, Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak
Champagne Philipponnat Clos de Goisses Juste Rosé 2014 (Disg. Mar 2024)
Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V. 1999 (Disg. Mar 2024)

Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V. 1999 (Disg. Mar 2024)

59% Pinot Noir and 41% Chardonnay. Packaged in a solid oak box. The L.V., or Long Vieillissement, is Philipponnat’s extended-aging project. It is widely accepted that the Clos des Goisses is one of the finest wines in Champagne for aging and needs at least 10 to 15 years to unveil its true majesty. For over two decades, Philipponnat has held back a portion of Clos des Goisses to be released over time. While there have already been some late-disgorged wines released over the years, the L.V. range now formalises a yearly release at the same time as the current vintage. Please note, we are talking about maturation on lees here, with late disgorgement for release. The 1999 L.V. is a blend of 59% Pinot Noir and 41% Chardonnay vinified by Charles Philliponnat himself (in his first year) and aged for a quarter of a century in Philipponnat’s Caveau du Trésor.

“The 1999 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. is stunning. A Champagne of soaring intensity and pedigree, the 1999 is simply magnificent. Citrus, marzipan, chamomile, baked apple tart and yellow flowers open effortlessly. The 1999 is a timeless wine. It shows some signs of age and yet remains wonderfully fresh. Its purity and finesse are just remarkable. I can't wait to taste it in finished form. Tasted à la volée, with no dosage.”
95-97 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous (Tasted March 2024.)
“A blend of 59% Pinot Noir and 41% Chardonnay, the 1999 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. reveals a complex, spicy bouquet of jasmine, flowers, smoke, guava, honey, confit orange and exotic fruit. Muscular, concentrated and beautifully tannic, it's full-bodied and has a vinous, structured mid-palate and crystalline texture, concluding with a long, toasty, pure and saline finish. This elegant, refined Champagne is the first vintage blended by Charles Philipponnat. Disgorged in March 2024 with 4.5 grams per liter dosage.”
96 points, Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate
“LV stands for Long Vieillissement, and this wine spent 24 years on lees, released 25 years after harvest. 1999 was a cool, old-fashioned vintage with high yields of healthy grapes. ‘The good vintages in the long run,’ says Charles, ‘are not the most intense vintages: they are the purest vintages.’ Of this wine, which was disgorged in March 2024, he says, it is still quite reductive and will be showing its best in two years’ time. Complex, detailed and fresh with some red cherry and fresh mushroom and porcini notes. Very fine with subtle toastiness and a nice acid line. Crystalline in quality.”
95 points, Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak
Champagne Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V. 1999 (Disg. Mar 2024)

“…this clos is a special site, and the wine from it is truly remarkable.” Jamie Goode

“It is arguably the single greatest vineyard site in Champagne…” Peter Liem

“Clos des Goisses has always been one of the most extraordinary jewels in Champagne’s crown.”
Tom Stevenson

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