“During my recent visit, in the company of Charles and his son François, I witnessed this qualitative evolution firsthand, and I must say that the 2015 Clos des Goisses stands out as one of the most precise and impressive of the “modern era,” while their rosé Champagnes are equally splendid. I strongly urge readers who appreciate saline, gastronomic wines to explore the entire range from this outstanding house.” Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate “From a top vintage, Clos des Goisses is one of the most exciting experiences Champagne can offer,” argues Champagne authority Peter Liem. Today, we’re delighted to offer another of those top vintages from the jewel in Philipponnat’s crown. The deep, chiselled 2015 certainly marks a change in tone coming after the cooler 2014 and the long, classic season of 2013. But then, as Charles Philipponnat will tell you, Clos des Goisses should not be your first port of call if you prize elegance above all else. “We don’t necessarily search for elegance in Clos des Goisses,” he says. “We want power and balance; we want something with muscle.” This striking Champagne delivers power, balance and muscle in spades. What makes this site so special is its capacity to retain freshness even in vintages that are, on average, hotter than ever. The wine has signature freshness and a sustained sense of acidity that comes from the pure chalk rock, even in vintages that might appear analytically low in acidity. A protean vineyard, then. More so, the ripeness is matched with a distinctive mineral character. “It’s the special kind of balance we get from very ripe grapes on very, very calcareous soil,” says Philipponnat. “It’s both fruity and fresh at the same time, and it retains sufficient acidity. Because the terroir gives us that, that’s where we take it.” The 2015 comprises 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay. For the first time, every wine in the blend fermented in oak, and, as usual, no malolactic fermentation occurred. Unlike many in Champagne who picked most of their fruit in August, Charles deliberately held out for an early September harvest. The reward: a great, complete wine from an inimitable vineyard that Philipponnat has firing on all cylinders. Alongside the 2015, we have been offered a precious few bottles of the Clos des Goisses lieu-dit Les Cintres: a single-plot, old-vine Pinot Noir from what is considered the heart of the vineyard. This wine comes from 2012, a much-lauded year that Charles Philipponnat considers one of the best in a century. The clos is also the source of one of Champagne’s rarest and most unique rosés. From a cool, incisive vintage, the 2014 we offer today is as exciting as we have tasted from this grower. Finally, we offer the latest disgorgement from Philipponnat’s far-sighted cellar-release program. If your budget stretches into prestige territory, these wines are some of the greatest and most unique Champagnes money can buy.