“This is another set of gorgeous wines from the Rocca family. As has been the case now for some years, the wines are marked by striking translucence and tons of site character… Readers who have not tasted these wines recently owe it to themselves to do so, as the transformation here of late towards wines of purity and finesse is significant.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous Twenty-nineteen will go down in the books as one of the great years for Albino Rocca’s suite of Barbaresco. But at this address the entire portfolio is laced with quality. There is no dead weight as the old-school merchants might like to say—nor should there be. Rocca’s first-rate holdings are impeccably managed, and you get the impression that the family and cellarmaster Carlo Castellengo are really turning the screw, eking out any and every ounce of purity and finesse wherever and whenever they can find it. Much like the upcoming Barbaresco release, this year’s undercard is a thing of beauty and, as always, there is some terrific value to be found. It’s not always the case that we ship every single wine from our producers, yet at a tasting on the Strada Ronchi last year, everything was popping with the purity of Rocca’s neo-classical style. A more recent tasting in the office confirmed our view that you don’t have to pay top dollar for outstanding quality and authentic expression of terroir. Tuck in.