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Domaine Ponsot Grand Cru Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 2020

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Domaine Ponsot Grand Cru Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 2020
Producer Domaine Ponsot
Region, Country Morey-St-Denis, France
Bottle Size 750ml
Case Size 12
Product Code 24003-750

This is, without any doubt, Domaine Ponsot’s top wine and one of the finest wines of the Côte de Nuits. The terroir itself largely explains why. Domaine Ponsot is famously the largest landowner in Clos de la Roche, perfectly situated almost entirely within the historic clos and with some of the oldest vines (averaging approximately 65 years of age). 

Clos de la Roche was expanded in the 1950s to include a range of neighbouring sites (Les Fremières, Les Genevrières, Les Mochamps, Monts Luisants, etc.) surrounding the original vineyard. As you might expect, the original terroir (widely considered the finest part of the Clos de la Roche appellation) makes different wines from the surrounding sites now included in the AOC. Domaine Ponsot owns almost three hectares of this original 4.5-hectare clos. The rest of Ponsot’s holdings are within the Monts Luisants lieu-dit (which has always been bottled and sold as Clos de la Roche as it has the same soil, though it sits higher on the slope). The grapes from Monts Luisants add freshness to the natural power of the fruit from the original clos.

Terroir aside, this wine is the reference point for the AOC. To us, it is not only Ponsot’s grandest wine but also one of the greatest red wines in Burgundy. Exactly how much of the quality is related to terroir and how much to vine age, plant material and the quality of the farming is impossible to separate, yet all these factors come together to create something truly remarkable these days. The 2020 is a “wow” wine: deep, fleshy, layered, complex and long, with a lingering dark-fruited, floral, Vosne-like spice and saline-noted finish. The notes below speak for themselves.

Domaine Ponsot Grand Cru Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 2020

Reviews

“The 2020 Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes has a beautiful, concentrated bouquet, predominantly red fruit intermingled with orange zest, blackcurrant and pressed iris flower. The palate is very well structured with fine tannins, real weight and depth, this Grand Cru seeming to fill every pore in the mouth. It just fans out marvellously with a residual spicy note lingering long after the wine has departed. Superb.”
96-98 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“Averaging 65 years in age, these vines are found in the climats of Clos de la Roche (two-thirds) and Monts Luisants. The nose is exuberant with wild berries, smoke and spice. The palate adds on plums and cherries. Crackling acidity gives this medium-bodied wine with polished tannins as much refreshment as any white wine! Focused and aristocratic, this is thoroughly compelling.”
97 points, Christine Canterbury, Tim Atkin Burgundy Special Report
“The 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is brooding and powerful, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries and cassis mingled with sweet spices, licorice, smoke and orange rind. Full-bodied, deep and muscular, with a broad attack that segues into a sweet core of fruit framed by ample reserves of rich, powdery tannins and lively acids, it concludes with a long, resonant finish. Predictably backward, this will require over a decade's patience.”
95+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“Marvellous purple colour. The nose is seductively heady but with underlying class. Takes time to dig out, but there is a sensuality waiting to pounce. Much more together, rather less of a vinification style. It is still quite a brash fruit that comes out at the front of the palate, then the real wine further behind. The finish in particular shows style as well as persistence. Clearly the superior wine in the range.”
94-97 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

Reviews

“The 2020 Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes has a beautiful, concentrated bouquet, predominantly red fruit intermingled with orange zest, blackcurrant and pressed iris flower. The palate is very well structured with fine tannins, real weight and depth, this Grand Cru seeming to fill every pore in the mouth. It just fans out marvellously with a residual spicy note lingering long after the wine has departed. Superb.”
96-98 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“Averaging 65 years in age, these vines are found in the climats of Clos de la Roche (two-thirds) and Monts Luisants. The nose is exuberant with wild berries, smoke and spice. The palate adds on plums and cherries. Crackling acidity gives this medium-bodied wine with polished tannins as much refreshment as any white wine! Focused and aristocratic, this is thoroughly compelling.”
97 points, Christine Canterbury, Tim Atkin Burgundy Special Report
“The 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is brooding and powerful, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries and cassis mingled with sweet spices, licorice, smoke and orange rind. Full-bodied, deep and muscular, with a broad attack that segues into a sweet core of fruit framed by ample reserves of rich, powdery tannins and lively acids, it concludes with a long, resonant finish. Predictably backward, this will require over a decade's patience.”
95+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“Marvellous purple colour. The nose is seductively heady but with underlying class. Takes time to dig out, but there is a sensuality waiting to pounce. Much more together, rather less of a vinification style. It is still quite a brash fruit that comes out at the front of the palate, then the real wine further behind. The finish in particular shows style as well as persistence. Clearly the superior wine in the range.”
94-97 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

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