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As all followers of this domaine will know well, this is Mortet’s ‘super-Gevrey’, sourced from a clutch of five brilliantly placed plots that Denis Mortet chose for the distinctive quality of their terroir and plant material. All the vines are at the higher, northern end of the appellation, which dictates the finesse. The vineyards include: En Motrot, situated between the church and Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, close to Clos Saint-Jacques; Au Vellé, very close by, under Petits Cazetiers; Combe-du-Dessus, situated at the top of the Brochon slope just northeast of Gevrey itself; En Champs directly below Gevrey’s 1er Cru Champeaux (the vines here are over 70 years old); and En Dérée, below En Champs on the Brochon border.
Perfectly judged picking dates and moderate yields of 30hl/ha help explain the quality here. Only 25% new barrels were used, and one-third of the fruit was destemmed. This is simply brilliant and would have no problem passing for 1er Cru status (from a top producer!) in a blind line-up. Give it at least five years and you will reap even greater rewards.