Bibendum Wine Co.
Bibendum Wine Co.
Bibendum Wine Co.
Bibendum Wine Co.

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Domaine Denis Mortet

Stellar Gevrey-Chambertin from one of the Finest Addresses on the Côte

A man of the vineyards, Arnaud's “knack”, as critic David Schildknecht puts it, is to be driven to produce perfect Pinot fruit from meticulously tended vineyards. He is without question one of the finest growers of the entire Côte (many of his peers acknowledge as much) and as great wines are the products of great fruit, it is no coincidence that he is producing some of the finest wines in Burgundy today. There is no doubt that the wines are more refined than those produced while his father was alive, yet they share the same intensity and potential longevity.

Arnaud is continuing his father’s dream of producing more refined wines: openly getting stylistically closer to the wines of his uncle, Charles Rousseau, without sacrificing depth and intensity, or consistency across the range. Denis Mortet was already “backing off” the extraction in the pursuit of greater elegance but Arnaud is taking this even further, not only via shorter and gentler macerations but also by reducing the percentage of new oak used. At the same time, the vineyard work at chez Mortet is at the very highest level. A horse is now used to plough all 1er Cru and Grand Cru vineyards (to minimise soil compaction) and organic/biodynamic practice is now being trialled in these sites. Machines are no longer used in any of the sites and all the work, including spraying copper/sulphur is done via backpack.

Recent evolution, including the addition of three more Grand Cru plots, has combined with Mortet’s energy and talent to propel this Domaine to its status as one of the very finest producers of Gevrey-Chambertin.

After almost 20 years as a vigneron, Arnaud Mortet is still progressing like a man possessed. There is the same level of viticultural rigour for which he—and his father—have long been famous, but now there is also a new cellar, with large oak and new concrete fermenters. Significant portions of the grapes are hand-destemmed (with scissors, à la Leroy). This incredibly labour-intensive method—which requires the work of four people for one hour to fill a single barrel—involves cutting out the central axis of each bunch (known as the rachis) to ensure the berries are retained intact on their pedicels. The idea is that you get the value of whole-berry fermentation (the prettiness, fine tannins and perfume) but without the stems (which rob acidity and bring coarser tannins).

Despite these changes, which have become more and more evident in recent years, the last time we saw Arnaud Mortet he spoke with passion about how his desire to honour the memory of his father continues to drive him. Today the wines compare very favourably with those of Arnaud’s uncle, Charles Rousseau, even if the style is not the same. Denis Mortet would have been immensely proud of what his son (with the support of his mother Laurence and younger sister Clemence) has now achieved.

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Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2022

Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2022

Where Domaine Denis Mortet’s Les Cinq Terroirs comes from the Brochon side of the village, the parcels for Ma Cuvée lie south of Gevrey near several Premier and Grand Crus. Most lie just east of the Combe de Lavaux. Covering just over two hectares, the vineyards are Les Epointures, La Justice, Champs-Chenys, Les Champerriers, En Jouise, Clos de l’Arche and Les Platières. The latter vineyard features 70-year-old vines on gravel and limestone. This wine is mostly destemmed using the new state-of-the-art SOCMA Cube destemmer that leaves the berries whole without the pedicel. There were, however, 30% whole bunches used and just a quarter new oak. 

“Crimson ruby colour, a stricter nose, more strawberry fruit. Pretty enough, less succulent than Mes Cinq Terroirs (Denis Mortet label), but attractive and quite persistent. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Nov 2023.”
90-93 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
"The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée bursts with aromas of sweet cherries, red berries, plums and potpourri, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and charming palate that's lively, fine-boned and pure. As usual, this cuvée derives from the south of the appellation, in contrast to the more structured "Cinq Terroirs" bottling Mortet produces for the family domaine."
89-91 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Ma Cuvée 2022
Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St-Jacques 2022

Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St-Jacques 2022

Lavaux St-Jacques is the signature cuvée of the Mortet estate, with Domaine Denis Mortet crafting what many consider the benchmark example. Now, Arnaud Mortet has two wines coming from this great 1er Cru—and there is very little between them in terms of quality. Lavaux is always the last site to be harvested by Arnaud Mortet due to its cooler location. Even if it sits right next door to Clos St-Jacques, Lavaux does not have the protection of the high walls, and is fully open to the cooling, northern airstreams that flow down from the Combe de Lavaux valley. The Arnaud Mortet bottling comes from two small parcels of over 70-year-old vines with rocky and shallow soils (less than 50 cm) and many pieces of ‘Gevrey silex’ indicating a notable alluvial influence on the site.Denis Mortet, Arnaud’s late father, once described archetypal Lavaux as having “…an exquisite texture. It is solid, becoming more and more slender, very elegant and close to what one expects from a Grand Cru.” What was true then remains true today. The 2022 is a blinder: opulent, layered, packed with dark cherry fruits and loads of spice. All the fruit was destemmed; roughly 30% by hand, with the central stem painstakingly removed with scissors, leaving perfectly intact berries. Only 30% new oak was used this year.

Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St-Jacques 2022
Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perrière 2022

Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perrière 2022

Nestled beneath the Grand Cru vineyard of Mazis-Chambertin, La Perrière has some of the oldest bedrock in the village. Mortet’s wine comes from 0.35 hectares across two small, stony parcels directly under Mazis. La Perrière is a small vineyard and much divided, so it’s a pleasure to have this wonderful 1er Cru back in Bibendum’s books—Benjamin Leroux’s access to La Perrière ceased with the 2017 vintage. Crafted with 30% bunches and 30% new oak.

“La Perrière has enough soil to keep adequate water even in a dry year. Fresh mid purple. Plenty of fresh raspberry fruit on the nose, and following through in the mouth. Just a whiff of white pepper. This is certainly stylish and then delivers a particularly long and sappy finish. Exceptionally persistent even within this fine range! Drink from 2031-2039. Tasted Nov 2023.”
93-96 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
"It has a stony, slightly more austere bouquet than Mortet's other cuvée, though there is some lovely blackberry and raspberry fruit to enjoy. It’s just in the background at present. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It’s pure and elegant, offering mainly red berry fruit laced with orange rind and a dash of spice box on the finish. There's a nice strictness here."
91-93 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
Arnaud Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perrière 2022
Arnaud Mortet Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 2022

Arnaud Mortet Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 2022

This tremendously refined expression of Gevrey comes from Mazoyères dessous, the lower part of the vineyard bordering Morey. Arnaud’s 0.45 hectares average 45 years of age and are planted on deeper clay soil than his Charmes, the soil moisture being a real bonus in warm, dry vintages such as 2022. The Mazoyères-Chambertin received half new oak and 50-60% of the fruit was hand destemmed.

“It has a much more floral bouquet than the Charmes-Chambertin, with veins of blue fruit running through the red cherries and crushed strawberries. It’s slightly more opulent thanks to the deeper soils. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, supremely well-focused and tensile. Arnaud Mortet said that this is becoming one of his favorite cuvées as the improvements made in the vineyard come to fruition in the glass. Beautiful."
95-97 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
“A fine mid purple. This is somewhat sterner than the Charmes, with a drier finish, the fruit not reverberating in quite the same way. Some cherries do reappear at the back but the wood tannins impose a little more. Long finish on cherry and dark raspberry fruit. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted Nov 2023.”
94-96 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Arnaud Mortet Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 2022
Arnaud Mortet Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2022

Arnaud Mortet Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2022

A new cuvée for Arnaud, and hardly a bad location! The Chambertin-Clos de Bèze is the only négoce wine in the portfolio but it comes from an excellent grower that Arnaud tells us works to his high standards. From vines pushing 80 years old, Mortet crafts this wine as he does his Domaine’s Chambertin: aging it in two-thirds new (but very light toast) Cavin barrels. One third of the fruit was whole bunch, two thirds destemmed, with about half of this done by hand. An incredible wine.

“Arnaud used only about one-third whole cluster as there were a lot of small, millerandé berries here. The wine delivers a profusion of earthy spices, rich black fruits and sultry minerality. Noble, chiseled tannins and vibrant acidity keep the palate bustling.”
97 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Tim Atkin Burgundy Report
“The 2022 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is the maiden vintage, the only cuvée Mortet does not farm himself, though he assured that he buys top quality grapes from the grower who owns a large part of the Grand Cru. It has a refined bouquet with pure redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit, wonderful mineralité, crushed stone and oyster shell. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannins on the entry. It has fine depth but perhaps not quite the complexity of some of the other cuvées, though a disarming pepper note on the finish conveys a sense of joie-de-vivre.”
93-95 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
Arnaud Mortet Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2022
Arnaud Mortet Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2022

Arnaud Mortet Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2022

Arnaud’s 0.2 hectares of very old vines are well-situated, close to Griotte-Chambertin, on red soil with lots of pebbles and high active chalk content. The winemaking is very similar to the Mazoyères-Chambertin, albeit with a touch less new oak. There was a lot of millerandage (hen and chicken) here, so many tiny berries. Arnaud and his team hand-destemmed over half the fruit. Arnaud’s Charmes is often more red-fruited and spicier than Mazoyères. It brings plenty of red cherry aromas and flavours, whilst maintaining the opulence of classical Charmes and the vibrant, sweet, floral fruit this vineyard is famed for.

“Brisk purple. More weight more stuffing, more strawberries and cream with a dusting of pepper. Then some cheerful cherries behind, a bright and attractive fruit throughout with sensible structure behind. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted Nov 2023.”
95-97 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
“It has a poised bouquet with black cherries, raspberry, wet clay and potpourri scents that unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy tannins, quite firm and saline, with dark berry fruit, white pepper and clove. The finish is persistent with good sapidity on the aftertaste. Very classy."
93-95 points, Neal Martin, Vinous
Arnaud Mortet Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2022
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Domaine Denis Mortet is a family domaine of great note established by Charles Mortet in 1956 in Gevrey-Chambertin.

• Since 2006, the estate has been in the talented hands of third-generation Arnaud Mortet, with his mother Laurence and sister Clémence.

• Today, the estate spans approximately 16 hectares of vines across Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Clos de Vougeot, Echezeaux, Bonnes Mares, Mazis-Chambertin, Marsannay and Fixin.

• Viticulture is mostly organic, soils are ploughed infrequently to preserve soil structure, grass cover is encouraged, and trimming is done with shears.

• Some whole bunches are retained, otherwise destemming is done by hand to preserve whole berries, and the use of new wood is low.

• The range includes Bourgogne, Village, 1er Cru and Grand Cru wines.

• The wines are in high demand and are sold on allocation.



IN THE PRESS

“Mortet’s wines are often spellbinding creations, thrilling wines that instantly seduce with their seamless texture, filigree tannins and beguiling purity of fruit.” Neal Martin, Vinous 

“The wines are undeniably lovely, with the flesh and charm to drink well in their youth but the concentration and satiny structure to age. They're also impressively consistent. If Mortet can sustain the viticultural attention to detail that was his father's calling card across the entire breadth of his growing palette of appellations, then this domaine's position among the greats of the Côte de Nuits will be assured.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Country

France

Primary Region

Côte de Nuits

People

Winemaker: Arnaud Mortet

Availability

National

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