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The Clos du Chapeau is a 1.6-hectare monopole in Comblanchien, the neighbouring village to Premeaux (where L’Arlot is located), at the southern end of the Côte de Nuits. This part of Burgundy is now quietly on the rise, thanks to the work of excellent growers like Camille Thiriet. Smart buyers are increasingly paying attention! The vines of the Clos du Chapeau are now approaching 40 years old, and they sit in a hat-shaped plot (hence the name) where the soil has plenty of limestone gravel eroded from the hills above. Made from 100% destemmed fruit, the wine fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in tank and was then aged for 11 months in French oak (30% new) before bottling. In the context of today's Burgundy pricing, this represents exceptional value, though that word barely does it justice. The 2023 is lovely.