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Classical Nebbiolo and Friends from an Outstanding Barbaresco Estate
It’s easy to forget that Nebbiolo, produced from great sites and mature vines can be a wickedly seductive wine to drink young. The late Angelo Rocca was a master at reminding us of this fact. When Angelo Rocca tragically passed away in 2012 in a light plane accident, Barbaresco lost one of its most distinguished growers. It also lost a wonderful person and a deeply respected member of the Piemontese community. Rocca was operating at the peak of his powers and producing the most exciting, terroir-intense wines of his career. His three daughters (Daniela, Monica and Paola) along with Angelo’s cellarmaster (and son-in-law) Carlo have been determined to continue this legacy and in recent years, they have not missed a beat.
These are deeply classical wines in one sense (large cask, natural ferments, savoury tannins, etc.) and yet they are also wonderfully pure and precise. They nod to modernity in the best possible way. Of course, it helps that they have such wonderful holdings, use only Estate grown grapes and work very well in the vineyards with no herbicides, pesticides and only organic fertiliser—when it comes to Piemonte we have all been guilty of talking too much about winemaking and not enough about grape growing!
“The entire range trades on the same principal; honest, open and delightfully balanced wines, no matter what grape varieties are involved.” Nick Stock, Gourmet Traveller Wine
This producer has been through an incredible journey in recent years. The sudden passing of the family patriarch was obviously the catalyst. Angelo was already moving the Estate back to a more classical style (having come full circle), and after his passing his three daughters decided to produce a wine in his honour. Speaking with their grandfather, Albino Rocca (Angelo’s father and founder of the Estate), the idea came to them to make a wine that was vinified much in the way that Albino had done back in the day—using a wooden fermenter, with what we would call today ‘extended maceration’. The first release of the Angelo Barbaresco was such a success that it has now inspired evolution across all the wines (and two new wooden fermenters at the winery).
The Rocca’s efforts to continually improve the quality of all their Estate’s wines have resulted in some superb offerings over the last few vintages. All the wines are aged in large, neutral botti and remain contemporary in the sense that they are ripe, pure and meticulously made, but instead of any distracting new oak character, you have that wonderful dark cherry, floral and savoury structured personality of Nebbiolo in all its Piemontese glory. Not only are Albino Rocca wines outstanding examples of Barbaresco, but they are also very fairly priced.
This is a very classy Barbera, a ripe, pure and pulpy wonder with the kind of intensity and length seldom found in the regular DOC, where the best sites are often reserved for Nebbiolo. Plum, black cherry and raspberry fruit are framed by savoury tannins, chalky grip and the tangy acidity typical of the variety. Textural and full-bodied, the balance is sublime. It finishes with impressive length and precision. We might be in benchmark territory here—Galloni's note does not oversell the quality.
AT-A-GLANCE
• This Barbaresco family estate started as a négociant in the 1940s before evolving to estate bottling in the 1960s under Albino Rocca, son of founder Giacomo. • Following the untimely death of third-generation Angelo Rocca, the estate is run by his three daughters and son-in-law. • The family owns 20 hectares of vines on limestone/clay soils in Barbaresco, Neive and San Rocco Seno d’Elvio (Alba), some of which are as old as 75 years. • The estate makes four Cru wines (Ronchi, Ovello, Cottà and Montersino), a Barbaresco blend and a special Barbaresco bottling named in tribute to Angelo. There are also premium Riserva bottlings of some of the Crus. • From Alba and Langhe, there is a Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, two Barberas and a red blend. The estate also makes Cortese, Chardonnay and Moscato d’Asti. • The Cru wines are aged in German and Austrian oak for two years. IN THE PRESS “The entire range trades on the same principal; honest, open and delightfully balanced wines, no matter what grape varieties are involved.” Nick Stock, Gourmet Traveller Wine
“….there’s much to be said for the attractive willingness of the wines of Albino Rocca; the Barbaresco unmasks the essence of nebbiolo and presents the engaging, elegant and downright feminine side of this much revered grape. In fact, the entire range trades on the same principal; honest, open and delightfully balanced wines, no matter what grape varieties are involved.” Nick Stock, Gourmet Traveller Wine
“Paola, Monica and Daniela Rocca have unhesitatingly taken up the winemaking and moral legacy of their father Angelo following since his untimely death in 2012. They now continue with the story that won many fans thanks to above all to the happy combination of courteous affability permeating the Ronchi farm and the appealing, well-measured pace of the estate’s Barbarescos.” Gambero Rosso
Country
Italy
Primary Region
Barbaresco, Piemonte
People
Winemakers: The Rocca family & Carlo Castellengo
Availability
National
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