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Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2023

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Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2023
Producer Bondar
Region, Country McLaren Vale, Australia
Bottle Size 750ml
Case Size 6
Product Code 24451-750

The Shiraz grapes for Midnight Hour are sourced from two blocks in Andre Bondar and Selina Kelly's own Rayner Vineyard. Planted in 1960 and 1990 on the Seaview side of the vineyard on red/brown clay over limestone, these vines are farmed using organic principles and without irrigation where possible. The soil and age of the vines result in smaller, more open canopies that allow for lots of sunlight to reach the developing bunches. This ensures that stems used in the fermentation are lignified, increasing the complexity of the finished wine.

The 2023 season followed the La Niña pattern of the preceding two years, meaning conditions were cool, particularly in summer and autumn. In fact, it was the coolest season for decades in McLaren Vale. Once again, yields were low, and harvest came late, with fruit coming off the vine two to three weeks later than the previous decade’s average. Cool conditions meant Bondar’s Shiraz spent a lengthy spell on the vine, developing complexity to match the low-yield flavour intensity. Andre Bondar incorporates full stems into the Midnight Hour ferments, a technique he picked up in the Northern Rhône. Maturation takes place in used French oak over a 15-month period. It’s a complex wine of deep flavour, silky yet firm texture and an alluring, pure-fruited profile.

Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2023

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Reviews

"From the Seaview side of the Rayner Vineyard and a 1960 planted block. 85% whole bunch. Liquorice, pepper, spice, blue and black fruit with a distinctly earthy and ferrous edge, along with almond paste. It’s medium-bodied, deep and savoury, lots of dried herb and black olive, clove spice and chewy almost gummy tannin, with a black fruit and spice finish of excellent length. Ooof. Very good!"
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“From a '60-planted block on the Rayner vineyard. Naturally open canopies, along with some carefully curated exposure, result in lignified stalks, so this saw 80% whole bunch. Élevage was in older French oak for 15 months. It’s always tempting to call a wine like this Rhône-like. It’s not untrue, but the comparison irks when this is not imitative, rather singular, and of place. It’s spicy and tarry, suffused with dark Asian spices, meat-curing woodsmoke, cracked pepper, salted licorice, coal dust, dried violet, clove, pumpernickel, dried olive, black cherry, dried rosemary and lavender. Absent a sweet spot, but intensely fruitful in a savoury way, this is linear, elegant and framed with insistent, natural tannins. It’s another exceptional release.”
97 points, Marcus Ellis, Wine Companion

Reviews

"From the Seaview side of the Rayner Vineyard and a 1960 planted block. 85% whole bunch. Liquorice, pepper, spice, blue and black fruit with a distinctly earthy and ferrous edge, along with almond paste. It’s medium-bodied, deep and savoury, lots of dried herb and black olive, clove spice and chewy almost gummy tannin, with a black fruit and spice finish of excellent length. Ooof. Very good!"
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“From a '60-planted block on the Rayner vineyard. Naturally open canopies, along with some carefully curated exposure, result in lignified stalks, so this saw 80% whole bunch. Élevage was in older French oak for 15 months. It’s always tempting to call a wine like this Rhône-like. It’s not untrue, but the comparison irks when this is not imitative, rather singular, and of place. It’s spicy and tarry, suffused with dark Asian spices, meat-curing woodsmoke, cracked pepper, salted licorice, coal dust, dried violet, clove, pumpernickel, dried olive, black cherry, dried rosemary and lavender. Absent a sweet spot, but intensely fruitful in a savoury way, this is linear, elegant and framed with insistent, natural tannins. It’s another exceptional release.”
97 points, Marcus Ellis, Wine Companion

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