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Bondar

“Ethereal quality” from a Young McLaren Vale Star

Exciting times are these for Australian wine. Times when quality small producers are popping up everywhere across the viticultural landscape. Times when many of these producers are striving to make delicious, lighter-bodied, fresher, purer, more digestible wines that have a strong sense of place. And now, most significantly, it is a time when some of these producers are realising that it is in the vineyard activity—more specifically the way their vineyards are planted and the way they are managed—that will ultimately determine the quality and uniqueness of the wines they are able to produce. Bondar is certainly at the heart of this zeitgeist.

Established in 2012, Bondar is the vision of husband-and-wife team Andre Bondar and Selina Kelly.  Andre, with a history as a winemaker in the Adelaide Hills and Selina with a background in marketing and law, have planted roots (literally) in the north of McLaren Vale, Their new home is the Rayner Vineyard on Chalk Hill Road, where plantings of old bush vine Grenache and Shiraz vines up to 65-years-old are already in play, while newer, closer planted Counoise (one of the 13 Châteauneuf varieties) has been recently planted, and Mataro, Carignan and Cinsault are on the horizon. 

“There must be a bit of magic behind Bondar. All of the wines have an ethereal quality” Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion

Straddling the Blewitt Springs and Seaview subregions, the Rayner Vineyard was planted in the 1950s. Today, under the meticulous management of Andre Bondar and Ben Lacey, the Rayner site is only now beginning to reveal its true potential. As the investment in the vineyard continues apace—with a focus on building soil health and microbial diversity—Bondar notes that this terroir and its old vines have begun to disclose a unique and consistent brand of freshness and elegance that screams of this deep sandy site. In tandem with the ascent of its vineyard, Bondar’s star continues its rise. 

Andre sees his role in translating the Rayner site into the wines as minimalist, and he picks earlier than many to catch the fresh fruit flavours intrinsic to Bondar’s graphic and fresh calling card. Native yeasts and gentle, extended extractions are par for the course, as is the use of mainly older hogsheads, puncheons and now demi-muids. Whole bunches are used extensively to introduce some more savoury characters to complement the purity of fruit that Rayner delivers. Regardless of the source of fruit, Andre and Selina want to make, in their own words, ‘… wines that are bright, structured, mid-weight, yet concentrated in flavour, and with a savoury element’. And of course, they want to make the finest quality possible. Terrific quality and remarkable pricing make for a heady mix and have gained Bondar the strong following they thoroughly deserve.

Currently Available

Bondar Junto Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2023

Bondar Junto Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2023

Junto is Spanish for ‘together’, and in this case means a union of old friends: Grenache (65%), Shiraz (16%), Mataro (8%) and Carignan (3%). The Grenache is culled from three separate blocks: the lion’s share is from Bondar's own Rayner vineyard with the balance coming from the Trott Wilpena and Slattery Vineyards in Blewitt Springs. The Shiraz is also home-grown Rayner fruit (70-year-old vines on sand), while the Mataro was sourced from a grower in the foothills of Willunga on the famed Kurrajong soils. The tiny addition of Carignan was drawn from young plantings in the Rayner vineyard. All the fruit was wild-fermented with approximately 20% whole-bunches, then raised in old oak for eight months. The blend was put together with the idea that Grenache heroes, with Shiraz supporting with flesh and the Mataro with spice, structure and tannin. The Carignan adds further finesse to the palate and contributes to the complexity. As always, Junto is a lively, vibrant wine with the restraint, energy and sheer drinkability that was once hardly known in the McLaren Vale.

"Frisky red fruited style with a smattering of dried herb and lemon zest. It’s light to medium-bodied, strawberry and orange rind, light grip of tannin, kind of edgy in character, though I like the fresh spiced and sappy strawberry thing it offers. There’s something like ozone or coal dust in the mix too, and the finish is lively, spicy and red fruited, with a Campari-like bitterness. Fun wine, could take a light chill even."
91 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“Made with approximately 20% whole bunch including a portion of carbonic maceration and matured in French hogsheads and puncheons (10% new). A medium-bodied, fragrant and elegant wine that opens up with red and black fruits, floral notes, pink peppercorns and blood orange. On the palate, this has real grip, intensity and persistence, and this will totally reward those who still have some in their cellar a decade from now.”
95 points, Philip Rich, The Wine Companion
“This is a delicious blend of grenache-dominant southern Rhône varieties. Kirsch, forest, whole bunch accents, peppercorns and cloves along a long, spicy ride. Prosaic in the very best sense, destined to be chilled and poured in large drafts. Drink now. Screw cap.”
93 points, Ned Goodwin MW, jamessuckling.com
“Vibrant ruby colour. Mulberry, dried blood and violets on the nose. Medium weight with a bright core of blue and purple fruits, layers of meaty savouries adding character to the flow. Tannins are supple and direct it to a decent length finish.”
90 points, Stuart Knox, The Real Review
Bondar Junto Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2023
Bondar Violet Hour Shiraz 2023

Bondar Violet Hour Shiraz 2023

Named after the evocative sky beneath which Andre Bondar and Selina Kelly picked the last Shiraz bunches for their first-ever release of this wine, Violet Hour is a blend of fruit from 10 blocks in Bondar’s Rayner vineyard. Each block has a different aspect, and soils range from deep sand with ironstone rocks to clay over limestone. The Shiraz vines are some of the oldest on the property, reaching 70 years in some blocks—a key to understanding the depth and detail this wine can express.Violet Hour encapsulates the Bondar style—fragrance, juicy fruit and lightness of touch. The winemaking is adapted to the season; whole-bunch and destemmed fruit are used, and the juice spends varying times on skins, depending on the block. The wine sees only seasoned oak, usually for 10 months. The result is a seemingly effortless, transparent, deeply expressive wine that perfectly captures site, season and the Bondar style.The third in a string of La Niña years in McLaren Vale, 2023 was, in fact, the region’s coolest season in decades. Andre Bondar’s preference is for wines of perfume and restrained power, so these marginal conditions and low yields played right into his hands. Picking came late in the season, giving the fruit plenty of time to hang and develop intense, complex flavour while maintaining high, fresh acid lines. The result is a joyously bright, fragrant, spice-driven wine with dark berry flavours, a warm woodsy feel and purple flower lift. The palate is full and plump, with svelte structure and a bright, long finish.

“Deep, dark and inky in the glass. Heady aromas of mulberry, plum, sweet spice, dried herbs, violets, nutty oak, earth and bramble. Generously flavoured, full-bodied and mouth-filling. There's a lovely drive of fleshy dark fruits, along with firm, grippy tannins, bright acidity and shapely oak. Power and balance evident here.”
92 points, Aaron Brasher, The Real Review
“The value here has always been super keen. That’s as true as ever with this iteration from a cool year, typically lifted and fragrant but also with some serious import. A tick up from mid-weight, this is spicy and peppered ferruginous minerality, along with blackberry, dark cherries, tapenade, violet, cassia, bay, coffee bean and salted licorice. Red berries swell up on the palate, with a thoughtfully woven skein of tannins underwriting its class. Excellent.”
96 points, Marcus Ellis, The Wine Companion
Bondar Violet Hour Shiraz 2023
Bondar Rayner Vineyard Shiraz 2022

Bondar Rayner Vineyard Shiraz 2022

This exceptional Shiraz is drawn from the two oldest blocks in the Rayner Vineyard, planted in 1950. Three-quarters of the fruit comes from Block 24 in the northeast corner of the vineyard, on deep sandy soils with ironstone rocks, dry-grown and organically managed. This portion gives wonderful fragrance and elegant structure. The remainder is cropped from Block 1, in the northwestern corner of the vineyard, laying in a cool gully. Dry-grown and organically managed, the shallow clay on the limestone base builds fine structure around the prettier, fleshier sandy portion.Fermented wild with 20% whole bunches, the wine spent two weeks on skins before 18 months’ aging in mostly used French hogsheads (with 5% new oak as part of the final blend) and was bottled without fining or filtration.

“Blueberry, blackberry, mint and sage, seaweed, some liquorice and biscuit spice. It’s full-bodied, but only just, saline and savoury, black olive, sweet blue and black fruit, raspberry ripple, ripe fine-grained but insistent tannin, oyster shell and cool peppermint, it’s thoroughly regional but has depth and presence. Lots to like here, and it feels classic McLaren Vale in character, though turned out with a light and deft touch in the winery. Ripe tannin rolls out the red raspberry carpet on a finish of fine length.”
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“Among the finest shiraz in the Vale, with the meager volume, subsequent concentration and tannic delivery of 2022 serving the plush, aromatic, full-bodied style well. Boysenberries, anise, pepper and ferrous tannins, forceful without compromising the tenacious, juicy flow of the fruit. Textbook Vale shiraz.”
95 points, Ned Goodwin MW, jamessuckling.com
“Dense and inky core, deep purple at the rim. Mulberry, clove, iodine, and mocha aromas. Dense and weighty with plush blue and purple fruits driving the core. The fruit sits fresh and lively though, alongside clove and vanilla spices, with a deep iodine ferrous undercurrent. Fine grained tannins keep it rolling along and it finishes very long. It has a classic Vale plushness but without overworking the fruit. Honestly, a bargain at the price.”
95 points, Stuart Knox, The Real Review
“From the two oldest blocks (1950 and ’60); two weeks on skins with about 20% whole bunches; 18 months in French hogsheads (5% new). The home vineyard shiraz trio are neatly differentiated. Here, there's a denser, more ‘classic’ feel, though the house style of restraint is still writ large. In part, this is defined by the iron, iodine and nori mineral notes sitting so forward in the wine, blue florals perfuming. Blackberry pastille, dark cherry, bitter chocolate, tar and master stock spice feature across a plumpness of fruit, but sans sweetness, rather suffused with the silky, supple gravitas of old-vine fruit guided by assertively fine tannins.”
96 points, Marcus Ellis, Halliday Wine Companion 2025
Bondar Rayner Vineyard Shiraz 2022
Bondar Junto Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2024

Bondar Junto Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2024

Junto is Spanish for ‘together’, and in this case means a union of old friends: Grenache (78%), Mataro (12%) and Shiraz (10%). The Grenache is sourced from two sites. The majority comes from Bondar’s Rayner Vineyard, with supplementary fruit from a deep, sandy site in Blewitt Springs. The Shiraz is also home-grown Rayner fruit (70-year-old vines on sand), while the Mataro–at its highest proportion ever in a Junto release, thanks to the warm conditions and outstanding quality–was sourced from the Lacey vineyard in the foothills of Willunga on the famed, rocky Kurrajong soils. All the fruit fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in old oak for eight months. As always, the blend was composed with the idea that Grenache is the hero, with Shiraz supporting with roundness and depth and the Mataro lending spice, structure and tannin. Predictably, 2024 Junto is a lively, vibrant wine with restraint, energy and sheer drinkability.

“A fresh and lively wine. Has something of a petrichor character, that thing when rain hits a hot road, which I like very much. I also associate it with ozone, which is the smell when a storm rolls in and lightning starts to strike. All that nonsense aside, it’s red fruited, cranberry and raspberry, a light spiciness with some gum leaf perfume. Medium-bodied, crisp and crunchy, some Spanish black olive lends a slightly metallic and savoury element, and it sports pepper dusted strawberry and orange peel on a finish of solid length. Light and frisky, but a nice wine. Easy to like.”
90 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
Bondar Junto Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2024
Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2022

Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2022

The Shiraz grapes for Midnight Hour are sourced from two blocks in Andre Bondar and Selina Kelly's own Rayner Vineyard. Planted in 1960 and 1990 on the Seaview side of the vineyard on red/brown clay over limestone, these vines are farmed using organic principles and without irrigation where possible. The soil and age of the vines result in smaller, more open canopies that allow for lots of sunlight to reach the developing bunches. This ensures that stems used in the fermentation are lignified, increasing the complexity of the finished wine. The 2022 vintage was similar to 2021. with La Niña driving a cooler-than-usual summer and autumn. Thankfully the wet conditions that can also be a feature of this weather pattern missed Bondar's McLaren Vale home. The cooler conditions delayed the start of vintage by two weeks, so the team was harvesting into the shorter days and longer nights of autumn. Given the stable ripening, Shiraz had more time on the vine, with no rush to pick. The resulting profile brings together red and black fruits with a lot of aromatic lift and a slightly lighter mouthfeel from the cool year. The bunches for Midnight Hour were harvested by hand and fermented with 100% of their stems. Andre and Selina learned the technique during their time working harvest in the northern Rhône. The wine from each batch aged in used French oak for 15 months. The result is a Shiraz with layers of complex flavour, yet an intriguing, textural, black fruit-laden palate.

“Deep, rich ruby red hue. Blueberry, dried morcilla, clove and beef bone aromas. Deep and weighty on the palate, all about savoury complexity over dark fruits. Drying beef, slate, iodine and roasting mushrooms all sit through the length of the palate, with a tight net of ripe tannins dialling up the pressure and drive. It stays with you for a long time, with a late lift of ripe blueberries cleaning the finish well. Serve it with beef rib roast and all will be good in your world.”
96 points, Stuart Knox, The Real Review
“Lots of smoky paprika spice here, blackberry pastille, dark cherry chocolate, some violet and mint, charred meat too. It’s fleshy and meaty, with distinct spice, medium to full-bodied, sage sausage flavour comes to mind, plenty of dry and grainy tannin grip, and it’s really quite different in character to your usual McLaren Vale Shiraz. The finish is a little bit salty, but has length and spicy tannin grip. There’s maybe a little too much whole bunch here, lending to dryness and coconut husk grip, though that’s an aside. The wine is good.”
93 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“This is the yin to the Violet Hour’s yang, coming off red/brown clay over limestone from two blocks, planted 1960 and ’90 (the Violet Hour is mainly sandy soils). Open canopies lead to ‘ripe’ stems, with 100% whole-bunch ferments employed; 15 months' seasoned French oak. Dark and brooding, though not heavy, rippling with dark fruits, dried cherry, olive, blackstrap licorice, thyme, toasted rye, coal dust, anise, clove, white pepper … a swell of dark red cherry and sour plum enlivening the palate. This may be more darkly wrought than the Violet Hour, but it’s not heavy, with a slinky suppleness of texture and assertive natural tannin. Truly exceptional.”
97 points, Marcus Ellis, Top Rated: Halliday Wine Companion 2025
Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2022
Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2023

Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2023

The Shiraz grapes for Midnight Hour are sourced from two blocks in Andre Bondar and Selina Kelly's own Rayner Vineyard. Planted in 1960 and 1990 on the Seaview side of the vineyard on red/brown clay over limestone, these vines are farmed using organic principles and without irrigation where possible. The soil and age of the vines result in smaller, more open canopies that allow for lots of sunlight to reach the developing bunches. This ensures that stems used in the fermentation are lignified, increasing the complexity of the finished wine.The 2023 season followed the La Niña pattern of the preceding two years, meaning conditions were cool, particularly in summer and autumn. In fact, it was the coolest season for decades in McLaren Vale. Once again, yields were low, and harvest came late, with fruit coming off the vine two to three weeks later than the previous decade’s average. Cool conditions meant Bondar’s Shiraz spent a lengthy spell on the vine, developing complexity to match the low-yield flavour intensity. Andre Bondar incorporates full stems into the Midnight Hour ferments, a technique he picked up in the Northern Rhône. Maturation takes place in used French oak over a 15-month period. It’s a complex wine of deep flavour, silky yet firm texture and an alluring, pure-fruited profile.

"From the Seaview side of the Rayner Vineyard and a 1960 planted block. 85% whole bunch. Liquorice, pepper, spice, blue and black fruit with a distinctly earthy and ferrous edge, along with almond paste. It’s medium-bodied, deep and savoury, lots of dried herb and black olive, clove spice and chewy almost gummy tannin, with a black fruit and spice finish of excellent length. Ooof. Very good!"
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
Bondar Midnight Hour Shiraz 2023
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Andre and Selina Bondar established Bondar in 2012 with the purchase of Rayner Vineyard.

• The site is in the north of McLaren Vale on the border of Blewitt Springs and Seaview. It has deep sandy soils with ironstone rocks throughout.

• The 1950s-planted vineyard is dry-grown, organically managed and home to old bush-vine Shiraz and Grenache, with recent plantings of Counoise, Mataro, Carignan and Cinsault.

• The Bondars also purchase fruit—including Chardonnay, Fiano and Monastrell—from like-minded growers in McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills.

• The style hinges on freshness: picking is earlier than most, extractions are gentle, and new oak is used sparingly.

• The range includes entry-level blends and straight varietals in white, red and rosé, plus premium, single-vineyard reds.

IN THE MEDIA

“There must be a bit of magic behind Bondar. All of the wines have an ethereal quality” Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion

“Marquee McLaren Vale vineyard now in the hands of some really good people, really good winemakers. It’s a very exciting proposition. The resulting wines, so far, short as the tenure has been, have been great.” Mike Bennie, The Wine Front

“Andre Bondar and Selina Kelly began a deliberately unhurried journey in '09, which culminated in the purchase of the celebrated Rayner Vineyard post-vintage ’13. Andre had been a winemaker at Nepenthe wines for 7 years, and Selina had recently completed a law degree. They changed focus and began to look for a vineyard capable of producing great red wines. Rayner had all the answers: a ridge bisecting the land, Blewitt Springs sand on the eastern side; and heavier clay loam soils over limestone on the western side. The vineyard has been substantially reworked and includes 10ha of shiraz, with smaller amounts of grenache, mataro, touriga, carignan, cinsaut and counoise, all of which are tended to with modern winemaking.” ★★★★★ Halliday Wine Companion

Country

Australia

Primary Region

McLaren Vale, South Australia

People

Winemaker: Andre Bondar

Availability

VIC, QLD, SA, TAS, WA

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