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Valenciso

Terroir-Driven Rioja from Ollauri
Valenciso

From humble beginnings, Valenciso has risen to become a leading light among Rioja’s small yet growing band of terroir-focused producers. The story began in the late 1990s when wine industry veterans Luis Valentín (Valen…) and Carmen Enciso (…ciso) left behind outstanding careers at Bodegas Palacio and rented a small warehouse with barely enough space to produce their first vintage of 2,000 cases.

 

Today, the vineyards and cellar are in the far north of Rioja Alta, in Ollauri, a small village four kilometres from Haro. Believing most of the region’s most outstanding wines derive from commune-specific precincts, Valentin and Enciso chose to focus on Ollauri and its immediate environs. Part of what has been proposed as the Western Sonsierra zone (by Alberto Gil and Antonio Remesal Villar in their compelling book, “Rioja: Vinos Silenciosos”), Ollauri’s vineyards are noted for their excellent calcário soils, altitudes of up to 600 meters and Atlantic-influenced climate. These factors are responsible for imparting depth and finesse into the Rioja Alta’s northern Tempranillo wines.

 

The Wines

Valenciso Rioja Laderas de Cabama 2024

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Valenciso Rioja Laderas de Cabama 2024

Laderas de Cabama is 100% Tempranillo, crafted from a single plot of 40-year-old vines in Ollauri. It grows on the classic clay/limestone soil of the Rioja Alta. This single-vineyard bottling used to be made in a similar style to Valenciso’s flagship Reserva in that it was built to age in barrel and bottle before release. From the 2018 vintage, Valenciso has sought to craft Laderas de Cabama in a younger, more fruit-forward style. The fruit is picked a little earlier, and the winemaking employs a portion of whole-berry, semi-carbonic fermentation, bringing a more primary, juicy profile. No new oak is used. Instead, fermentation occurs in cool concrete, followed by 14 months in used French oak barrels.

Valenciso Rioja Laderas de Cabama 2024

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Valenciso Rioja Cemento 2022

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Valenciso Rioja Cemento 2022

Organic. From humble beginnings, Valenciso has risen to become a leading light among Rioja’s small yet growing band of terroir-focused producers. The vineyards and cellar are located in the far north of Rioja Alta in Ollauri, a small village four kilometres from Haro. In part of what has been proposed as the Western Sonsierra zone (by Alberto Gil and Antonio Remesal Villar in their compelling new volume—Rioja: Vinos Silenciosos), Ollauri’s vineyards are noted for their excellent calcário soils, altitudes of up to 600 meters and Atlantic-influenced climate. These factors are responsible for imparting depth and finesse into the Rioja Alta’s northern Tempranillo.

A distinctive feature of Valenciso’s approach in the cellar has been the widespread use of concrete tanks for fermentation, a practice which allows for a gentler extraction of fruit and colour. Concrete vats were once a mainstay in Rioja, yet by the 1980s the tradition of fermenting and aging in concrete vessels had largely been replaced by stainless steel and oak maturation. Today, thanks to its numerous advantages and a group of specialist manufacturers, concrete has found itself right back at the forefront of fashion.

While all Valenciso’s wines see the inside of some concrete during their élevage, this bottling, as the name suggests, is fermented and raised entirely in concrete vats. It’s 100% Tempranillo drawn from a group of old-vine vineyards nestled in the limestone-rich hillsides of Haro and Ollauri. All up, this was aged for 26 months before bottling. 

"The unoaked red 2022 Cemento is pure Tempranillo. It fermented with uncrushed grapes and selected yeasts in concrete, where it matured until bottling. It's juicy and fruit-driven, quite straightforward. It has good ripeness, 14% alcohol and a mellow palate, reflecting the warmer and drier year with a pH of 3.9 and 4.62 grams of acidity. 18,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2025."
91 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
Valenciso Rioja Cemento 2022

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Valenciso Rioja Selección Especial Reserva 2020

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Valenciso Rioja Selección Especial Reserva 2020

This estate's flagship perfectly encapsulates Luis Gutiérrez’s assertion that Valenciso is one of the most traditional of Rioja’s modern producers. From a selection of handpicked Tempranillo from the clay/limestone soils around Ollauri, the grapes are drawn from 17 organically managed plots spread across the villages of Villalba, Gimileo, Rodezno, Briones and Haro, all within a five-kilometre radius of the winery.

Part of what has been proposed as the Western Sonsierra zone (by Alberto Gil and Antonio Remesal Villar in Rioja: Vinos Silenciosos), these venerable sites lie at the heart of Rioja’s grower-producer genesis in the late 19th century.  Key to the quality includes the patrimony of old-vine Tempranillo (no less than 60 years old in this cuvée), excellent limestone calcário soils and altitudes of up to 600 metres. In the right hands, these historic terroirs imbue their wines with aromatic intensity and great structure for longevity. 

The wine ferments naturally in concrete vats before aging for 18 months in (mostly) low-toast Radoux French oak barriques. In recent vintages, 10% of the wine has also been raised in low-toast Caucasus oak, further lessening the wine’s already minimal wood influence. Following aging in barrel, the wine is transferred back to cool concrete vats to settle for a further 24 months before release. Luis and Carmen find the wine clarifies so well in concrete that there is no need to fine or filter it before bottling. “We seek wines with aromatic volume, wines that shine not out of weight but of perfume,” explains Luis Valentín. 

"The 2020 Reserva, which could be labeled Selección Especial in some markets, reflects the house style, which is somewhere between tradition and modernity, keeping the character and typicity with good ripeness, controlled extraction, a certain elegance and integrated oak. It's elegant, perfumed and floral, quite showy, more developed and complex this time, medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a polished palate. It doesn't lack ripeness—it has 14.5% alcohol—but it keeps the balance and poise with integrated acidity and a soft texture. It matured in French oak barrels, one-third new, for 19 months and then spent a further 12 months in concrete until bottling. It's harmonious and balanced, with power and elegance. 80,000 bottles were produced in January 2024."
93 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
Valenciso Rioja Selección Especial Reserva 2020

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