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Place of Changing Winds Bullengarook Chardonnay 2019

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Place of Changing Winds Bullengarook Chardonnay 2019
Producer Place of Changing Winds
Region, Country Macedon Ranges, Australia
Bottle Size 750ml
Case Size 6
Product Code 18197-750

This is Place of Changing Winds' first, tiny Chardonnay release. It comes from a parcel of vines with a density of 12,000/ha. In 2019, 4,400 Chardonnay vines were harvested to get only 900kg of fruit. The fruit was whole-bunch pressed, hard and fast, and sent to barrel with all solids. Fermentation was in new wood—a single 300-litre Stockinger barrel and one 228-litre Dominique Laurent barrel—and then the wine was transferred to an older, neutral, 500-litre cask with all lees for aging. Finally, the wine was transferred to tank for a number of months before bottling in June 2020.

Even with these minuscule yields, the wines possesses terrific acidity and excellent pH (3.2 at picking, finishing at 3.35). This wine has gone through 100% malolactic and yet still retains plenty of freshness. It’s intense, floral and tonic. No fining or filtration. Minimal SO2. Bottled by gravity and by hand in June 2020. 887 bottles produced.


Place of Changing Winds Bullengarook Chardonnay 2019

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Reviews

“It’s a deft skewer. It takes understatement and gives it some character. It’s a nectarine-based wine threaded with brine, bran, chalk and anise. It feels quite incredibly pure. There’s a subtle milkiness to the texture; so subtle in fact that if it was a joke you wouldn’t get it until you were half-way home. Nothing about this wine is fruit-forward but it’s not mean about it; it’s like looking at velvet drapes just as they begin to draw open. It’s just beginning. The show’s about to start.”
94 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
“The 2019 Bullengarook Chardonnay weighs in at just 12.5% alcohol (according to the label), but it's no skinny, anemic offering. The nose boasts flinty nuances, hints of white peaches, blanched almonds and fresh lime juice, while the medium-bodied palate finely balances slightly rounder silk and custard notes against lighter, fresher yet intense sensations of citrus and rainwater that linger on the finish. While I personally prefer a bit more richness and generosity in Chardonnay, this is a notable effort. Fermented in new barrels but aged in a single used puncheon, the oak is barely discernible, with much of the wine's texture no doubt attributable to lees contact. Only 887 bottles were produced in this first commercial vintage.”
91 points, Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate

Reviews

“It’s a deft skewer. It takes understatement and gives it some character. It’s a nectarine-based wine threaded with brine, bran, chalk and anise. It feels quite incredibly pure. There’s a subtle milkiness to the texture; so subtle in fact that if it was a joke you wouldn’t get it until you were half-way home. Nothing about this wine is fruit-forward but it’s not mean about it; it’s like looking at velvet drapes just as they begin to draw open. It’s just beginning. The show’s about to start.”
94 points, Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
“The 2019 Bullengarook Chardonnay weighs in at just 12.5% alcohol (according to the label), but it's no skinny, anemic offering. The nose boasts flinty nuances, hints of white peaches, blanched almonds and fresh lime juice, while the medium-bodied palate finely balances slightly rounder silk and custard notes against lighter, fresher yet intense sensations of citrus and rainwater that linger on the finish. While I personally prefer a bit more richness and generosity in Chardonnay, this is a notable effort. Fermented in new barrels but aged in a single used puncheon, the oak is barely discernible, with much of the wine's texture no doubt attributable to lees contact. Only 887 bottles were produced in this first commercial vintage.”
91 points, Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate

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