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The Clos de Cuminaille is one of the most privileged sites of Saint-Joseph. It’s an east-facing, walled vineyard on Chavanay’s pure granite soils and produces one of the most distinctive wines of the appellation each year. When Gaillard bought this three-hectare site, he passed on the chance to buy a slice of the now-renowned La Turque vineyard in Côte-Rôtie, a site he helped plant. He simply felt that Clos de Cuminaille was the better site. The vines here are now over 30 years old, and the winemaking is no different to the Saint-Joseph—save for a touch more new oak (a well-integrated 40% this year). It’s a refined and wonderfully balanced Cuminaille of dazzling fruit and succulence.