Champagne Jacques Selosse Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Substance NV (Solera 1986-2016, Disg. May 2022)

Substance is drawn from a perpetual blend that began in 1986. The juice comes from two sites in Avize: one facing south, Le Mont de Cramant; and one facing east, Les Chantereines. Every release spends between five and six years on lees and is bottled with a dosage of between zero and two grams. As opposed to the Millésime, this is a wine where the process is designed to remove vintage from the equation, leaving behind an expression of the place through time. This is always a fascinating, full-bodied and incredibly deep Champagne and, in keeping with the age of the blend, it is also the most complex and developed in style.