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Syberia Chardonnay is a single-block wine sourced from a 10-acre block planted in 2006 at the highest point on the Hoddles Creek property. Unusually, the plantings run east to west, meaning the sun shines onto the canopy rather than directly on the fruit, resulting in long, even ripening. It’s a low-yielding plot, with 1.3 tonnes per acre considered an average yield. In 2021, the block was ravaged by deer, diminishing the already paltry crop by a further 40% and resulting in just 300kg of fruit per acre. When we asked Franco about the evolution of Hoddles Creek Chardonnay, he responded with typically refreshing honesty: “It hasn’t really changed in 25 years. When I first started, I had no idea how to make Chardonnay, and I still make it the same way today: pick it, press it, leave it on full solids, rack it to barrel and let it do its thing.” Makes it sound easy!
The 2021 was whole bunch-pressed to barrel and spent seven months in old oak, followed by long maturation in bottle, which Franco asserts “preserves vineyard purity”. The meagre yields have resulted in a wine of great concentration, yet in signature Syberia style, it’s light, chiselled and lithe. An excellent release.