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Domaine Hubert Lamy Grand Cru Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Haute Densité 2021

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Grand Cru Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Haute Densité 2021
Producer Domaine Hubert Lamy
Region, Country Puligny-Montrachet, France
Bottle Size 750ml
Case Size 6
Product Code 24190-750

Yes, we realise the price for this unicorn is now in the stratosphere—The Wine Advocate’s 100-point score for the 2020 did not help matters. But we get only a few bottles from a handkerchief-sized 0.05-hectare parcel, and we should recall that the overall pricing of Lamy wines is extremely fair in the context of modern, benchmark white Burgundy. We always take what we can get, and the wine is certainly as outstanding as it is rare. The Lamy family have farmed the vines here for three generations, and the parcel borders the southeast corner of Bâtard, right next to Domaine d’Auvenay’s plot. Olivier Lamy has taken the density up to 24,000 vines per hectare. Unlike most of its Grand Cru contemporaries, this wine is entirely unfettered by new oak (instead, it is raised in a single, 250-litre, six-year-old barrel (with part of the aging in Wineglobe) and, when there is enough for a second vessel, this is aged in Wineglobe). So, the aging vessel always gets out of the way, allowing the drinker to get straight to the heart of the matter—which is simply remarkable white Burgundy. 

Domaine Hubert Lamy Grand Cru Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Haute Densité 2021

Reviews

“Lamy's sole grand cru was happily spared by the April frosts, and in the 2021 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité he has produced one of the vintage's most imposing wines. Unwinding in the glass with notes of orange zest, pear, freshly baked bread, iodine and toasted nuts framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with a hugely concentrated and youthfully tightly wound core of fruit that's framed by racy acids and an abundance of chalky structuring extract. Long, resonant and serious, this will demand and richly reward patience in anyone lucky enough to latch onto a bottle of the 300 produced.”
97 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“Here’s a nose that already has scale with a slight lime extra complexity that’s shared across the HD wines. More of this direction. Lime, minerality in this length of flavour too. In many respects this wine is not superior to the othe HD wines – except – the finish sticks, it’s unending – I can only compare this finish to 2002 Montrachet of DRC. It’s a really great wine, and largely, it will live longer than that 2002 ever did too!”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

Reviews

“Lamy's sole grand cru was happily spared by the April frosts, and in the 2021 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité he has produced one of the vintage's most imposing wines. Unwinding in the glass with notes of orange zest, pear, freshly baked bread, iodine and toasted nuts framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with a hugely concentrated and youthfully tightly wound core of fruit that's framed by racy acids and an abundance of chalky structuring extract. Long, resonant and serious, this will demand and richly reward patience in anyone lucky enough to latch onto a bottle of the 300 produced.”
97 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“Here’s a nose that already has scale with a slight lime extra complexity that’s shared across the HD wines. More of this direction. Lime, minerality in this length of flavour too. In many respects this wine is not superior to the othe HD wines – except – the finish sticks, it’s unending – I can only compare this finish to 2002 Montrachet of DRC. It’s a really great wine, and largely, it will live longer than that 2002 ever did too!”
Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

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