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Diam. Didier Defaix tells us he has worked with the same grower family for 20 years. Although the vineyards are not organically certified, the grower “works like us” (that is to say, he’s very happy with the quality). The Montée de Tonnerre is drawn from old vines in Chapelot, which form 20 hectares of the vineyard on a similar southeast-facing aspect to the neighbouring Grands Crus. The vineyard's iconic grower is, of course, Raveneau, although Moreau-Naudet, Billaud-Simon and others farm vines in this prestigious lieu-dit. This cuvée is fermented wild, entirely in used barrels (one to five years old) with regular bâtonnage. The wine is bottled after 12 months. From the outstanding, balanced 2022 vintage, it's a textbook Monty with striking minerality enhanced by succulent grapefruit and confit citrus, with all the sprightly flavours pulled into the long, crushed oyster shell finish.