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Here we have another deliciously idiosyncratic wine from Jean-Marie Guffen’s Luberon estate. As the name suggests it’s a perpetual blend of successive vintages, in this case of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. Guffens’ selection of grapes is based on what he calls ‘raisins rôtis’ or roasted grapes; those grapes lying on the outside of the bunch and closest to the sun’s rays. The current bottling is based mainly on the 2022 and 2023 vintages, alongside a small proportion of the solera that contains every vintage going back to 2017. The name ‘1723’ release to both the youngest and oldest wines in the blend.
The juice is stored in concrete tanks, on lees, so the wine stays fresh and keeps developing slowly over the years. So, the older material adds complexity and texture and the younger vintages brings freshness and minerality. What can we say – it just works brilliantly! The current release is both fleshy and juicy, enlivened delightful tangy, mouthwatering structure. Expect succulent flavours of pineapple, orange, Mirabelle plum jam and mouthwatering bitters plum kernel and fresh kumquat. It finishes fresh and bright with notes of Sichuan pepper and lemongrass; welcome to the wonderful world of Château des Tourettes.