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Bérêche’s succulent and salty rosé uses the Roman name for the countryside around Reims. The 2019 is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 10% Meunier with 25% Chardonnay, topped up with 5% still red. The fruit is sourced from vines planted by the brothers’ maternal grandmother in the 1950s. These three hectares of old vines are deeply rooted in the sandy Les Montées vineyard in Ormes, just west of Reims.
Disgorged by hand with 3 g/L dosage, the palate unpeels with flavours of red berries and Bandol-like blood orange, tobacco and sweet spices complemented by chalky mineral and saline notes. But it’s just as much about the texture, which is pillowy and charming before tapering to an incisive, fine-boned finish. We’ll leave the last word to Jamie Goode, who wrote in 2015 that Bérêche’s wine “is one of the best rosé Champagnes that I’ve had. It’s so beautiful.” Or perhaps to William Kelley: “exquisitely ethereal”. Or Jancis Robinson: “a rosé for the table. Perfume and gorgeousness.” Speaking of the table, Raphaël tells us that his favourite match with this wine, so far, is roast pigeon (à la Racine in Reims).