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Organic. First produced in 2013, this idiosyncratic, pulpy, saline white is made from Spain's indigenous Malvar grape. This variety tends to give wines with good acidity and aromas of citrus and bitter almonds. The fruit is drawn from a tiny 0.44-hectare plot of old bush vines rooted in the chalky clay soils of Valdilecha in the Madrid mountains, some 730 metres above sea level.
Organic/biodynamic cultivation, meagre yields and old-school (very old-school!) fermentation with skins and stalks are the keys to this delicious, fascinating and very priced white. Aging that included crushed skins and stalks was the traditional way Spanish farmers made their wines, and this just works with Malvar. Following pressing, the wine matured in old 300-litre casks. It’s a wine loaded with charisma and mouthcoating texture fused with deep citrus and mineral vibrancy. It also gives a glimpse into the deep history of this part of Spain.