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Luciano Sandrone

Iconic Barolo and more from a Jewel in Piemonte’s Crown

Today, Luciano Sandrone is one of Barolo’s most admired names, a fact made all the more remarkable given his Estate’s humble beginnings. As Kerin O’Keefe writes in Barolo and Barbaresco, Sandrone is one of “the few producers who does not hail from generations of growers and winemakers.” Sandrone’s father was a carpenter, but instead of following in his father’s footsteps, Luciano chose a life in wine, first at Giacomo Borgogno and then at Marchesi de Barolo, where he rose to become cellar master, a role he would hold until 1990. 

In 1978 Sandrone achieved his ambition, buying a small plot in the then little-known Barolo Cru of Cannubi Boschis. Made in his parent’s garage overlooking the Cannubi hill, Sandrone tentatively took his inaugural Barolo to Vinitay in 1981, where he sold every one of the 1500 bottles to an American broker. It quickly became one of Piemonte’s first cult wines, first with the 1982 and 1985 vintages, and by the time the 1990 Cannubi received a perfect score from Robert Parker, the dye was cast.

“Sandrone is now a historic estate, but the wines keep getting better and more finessed, a testament to the drive for perfection that runs through every aspect of this exemplary winery...” Antonio Galloni

Since the early ’90s, Luciano has worked alongside his children Luca and Barbara and, increasingly, his grandchildren Alessia and Stefano. Driven by the family’s clarity of vision, the Estate has since expanded to over 27 hectares. One of the things least discussed about this celebrated producer and Barolo, in general, is the quality of their work in the vineyards. Sandrone is genuinely one of the regional leaders in this area. Firstly, they are organic in a region where organic practice is still infrequent. Secondly, Luca Sandrone is a perfectionist (like his sister Barbera) and is completely obsessed with the vines he manages. His focus is very much on making the vines stronger, healthier and more resilient rather than the symptomatic approach that is so typical. A great deal of the vineyard work is done by hand, with the Estate employing twelve full-time workers in the vines alone. Luca and Luciano openly reference Burgundy in their approach and seek to harvest only perfectly ripe and immaculate fruit. This is one of the keys to the purity and flesh of the wines. 

Another little-known fact is that 30-50% of the fruit is fermented as whole bunches, with the destemmed portion of the fruit also having a very high percentage of whole berries. Luciano Sandrone remembers well that once upon a time, all the region’s wines were made without destemming. The maturation occurs in large format oak, 500 litres and beyond, and only a small percentage of this oak is new (10% across the winery). The work in the cellar is minimal, with only wild yeast fermentation and no filtration. The macerations are managed very carefully, and the bottling occurs relatively early as Luciano Sandrone wants to capture the most refined tannins and as much fruit purity as possible, another key to understanding the wines produced here. 

Of course, like all great growers, the primary key is the vineyards themselves. There is no doubt that Sandrone works with a spectacular range of Barolo vineyards. Yes, there is the legendary Cannubi Boschis (today bottled under the Aleste label), but there are also great Barolo sites in Monforte, Serralunga, Castiglione Falletto, Novello and more in the Barolo township itself that all contribute to the outstanding Le Vigne cuvée. Little wonder this wine now comfortably rivals (and some would argue in specific years eclipses) the Aleste for quality.

“No one has done a better job of bridging the traditional and modern style than Sandrone, especially in recent years. The Sandrone Barolos are made in a style that emphasizes fruit and intensity. In that sense, they are the equivalents to growers such as Claude Dugat or Leroy in Burgundy.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Tasting at Sandrone is like an endless degustation at your favourite restaurant, where every dish is unique, yet just as delicious as the next! There are no entry-level wines at this address, more a series of benchmarks with their own distinctive personality and style. I don’t think that Luciano Sandrone will mind Galloni comparing his wines, (stylistically or otherwise) with those of Claude Dugat or Leroy. Luciano is a lover of Burgundy and is very open about the influence this region has had on his viticulture (organic and perfectionist) and winemaking (where the aim is purity and ripe tannins). After his first ‘win’ at Vinitaly in 1982, he jumped in his car and drove over the Alps to Burgundy. By his own admission, Sandrone absorbed an awful lot from this, and subsequent visits to the great vineyards of the Côte d’Or. Given the class and expression of Sandrone’s wines today, we’re pretty sure Mr. Dugat and Mme. Bize-Leroy would be similarly flattered by the stylistic comparison!

What is most important is that irrespective of fashion or style, Luciano Sandrone crafts wines of profound integrity, purity and deep expression. These are wines made with passion and honesty. They provide wonderful drinking pleasure both when young and with bottle age. As a fastidious and naturally talented vigneron, Sandrone’s obligation to keep the unique signature of the terroirs alive is vividly captured in these wonderfully intense wines.

The Sandrone family also runs an outstanding museum program they call Sibi et Paucis (the name is Latin and translates roughly as: ‘for the few and favoured’). Each year, about 10 to 15% of the production of their Nebbiolo wines (the two Barolos and the Valmaggiore) is held back in the winery’s underground cellars under optimal aging conditions to provide this producer’s long-term clients with aged-release wines that are closer to maturity. 

Luciano Sandrone dreams that one day all his wines will be released only when they are ready to drink. Currently, the Sibi et Paucis wines start being re-released six years after the vintage for the Valmaggiore and for the Barolos, 10 years after the vintage. It is a wonderful initiative that we, of course, welcome. Each release comes with a stamp on the label to differentiate it from the original release.

Currently Available

Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d'Alba 2021

Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d'Alba 2021

Sandrone’s Dolcetto is, without doubt, one of the very finest examples of the region. The consistent quality of this wine—its purity, silky texture, fine tannins and balance—can only come with perfectly ripe fruit from top sites. In this case, the sites are also high-altitude, which brings added freshness to the layers of fruit. From estate vineyards in Monforte d’Alba, Sandrone draws from Castelletto and Cascina Pe Mol. The latter sits at the top of the ridge leading from Monforte d’Alba to the hamlet of Perno and is among the highest vineyards of the region. In Novello, there are the Rocche di San Nicola vineyards and the whitish marls of Ravera—where the easterly exposure contributes perfume and aromatic complexity. Joining these sites now is fruit from Rivassi and Crosia in the commune of Barolo. There are typically 10 different parcels contributing to the blend, with any fruit not making the grade sold off in bulk. Each parcel is vinified separately before blending and the wines are aged in tank only. The amount of care that goes into the growing of this wine is quite remarkable and it shows in the glass. There is some history here: when Luciano Sandrone was starting off, he was driven to produce greatness, yet he could only access a limited quantity of Barolo vines. He, therefore, channelled a great deal of his drive and energy into his Dolcetto (and Barbera). This helps explain the quality on offer.

“The 2021 Dolcetto d’Alba is bright and punchy. Blue/purplish fruit, violets, spice, licorice and rose petal all meld together in this bracing, taut Dolcetto. This is an especially understated, super-classic style for Sandrone, and it works so well.”
91 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The Dolcetto is as dark as night and stains the glass with its intense extraction of color. This richness in color is just the prelude to the ripe and luscious plum aromas that mingle with notes of violets and dried herbs. The palate is plush and full in body with the core of fruit being dominated by black plum and black cherry with a subtle leather note peeking through on the finish.”
90 points, Jeff Porter, Wine Enthusiast
Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d'Alba 2021
Luciano Sandrone Barbera d'Alba 2020

Luciano Sandrone Barbera d'Alba 2020

Sandrone’s layered and polished Barbera is drawn from four sites: Cascina Pe Mol, (mentioned above); Ravera and Rocche di San Nicola (in Novello); and Albarella (in Barolo). At between 350 and 450 metres, these are some of the highest, most exposed vineyards in the region, bringing superb freshness and vibrancy to this wine. To balance the structure and acidity for which this wine is noted, Sandrone matured the wine in 500 litre tonneaux (40% of which are new). The estate has special, untoasted barrels made in Burgundy for this cuvée to ensure the wood impact is as discreet as possible. Of course, when the wine is young, some wood shows through on the nose, but it is seriously classy oak and is hardly noticeable. With aging, the integration is seamless.

“The 2020 Barbera d’Alba is another wine that shows the greater refinement at Sandrone these days. Even so, there’s plenty of richness in the ripe red cherry, plum, mocha and spice flavors. Soft, silky contours wrap it all together, with a gentle kiss of oak that lingers. The 2020 is an absolute delight.”
93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“This is a terrific value wine. Darkly saturated and rich, the 2020 Barbera d'Alba is packed tight with dark blackberry and plum. This hot-vintage Barbera is lovely to pair with grilled meats or easy chicken recipes. This is a luscious, generous wine from Piedmont.”
93 points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
Luciano Sandrone Barbera d'Alba 2020
Luciano Sandrone Barolo Aleste 2019 (1500ml)

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Aleste 2019 (1500ml)

The name of the wine may have changed, but Sandrone’s flagship Barolo is still, and will remain, 100% Cannubi Boschis, the Barolo vineyard so synonymous with this grower. The Boschis subzone sits near the northern end of the Cannubi hill and is located directly across from the Sandrone cellars. The Cru (of which Sandrone farm 1.9 hectares of 40-year-old vines), has a particularly good exposure to the south and southeast in a small amphitheatre or “conca” that helps hold warmth in the early morning. Its soils are sea deposits of calcareous clay with some sand and therefore excellent drainage. Highlighting the uniqueness of the wines from this terroir compared to the rest of the Cannubi hill, Alessandro Masnaghetti’s L’Enciclopedia delle Grandi Vigne del Barolo writes, “The wines, in general, have good body, much elegance, and more polished tannins than other Cannubi wines.” Aside from a little time longer on skins, the winemaking is essentially identical to Le Vigne. While both are extraordinary, the stylistic contrast is clear as day. Where Le Vigne is lifted and perfumed, arcing towards the sky, the Aleste is of the earth; a deeper, darker, textured and yet more mineral Barolo.

“The 2019 Barolo Aleste is another stellar wine from Sandrone. Like Le Vigne, the Aleste is a tightly wound ball of energy. Dark cherry, mocha, plum, licorice and lavender all race across the palate. This racy, but youthfully austere Barolo has a ton to offer. There’s more density and a darker profile than in the Le Vigne, sort of like a soloist to Le Vigne’s orchestra.”
97 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“Aleste is a contraction of the names Alessia and Stefano, grandchildren of the late Luciano Sandrone. With fruit from Cannubi Boschis, the 2019 Barolo Aleste shows important richness and structure. This is the proverbial Barolo with a capital B. It reveals thick layers of dark fruit, cherry and spice. It shows sweet tannins and impactful texture. When tasting at the winery, Le Vigne is usually served first, and Aleste comes after that. Both wines promise a very long aging window.”
97 points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
"Camphor, forest floor, cedar and rose aromas come to the forefront on Sandrone’s stunning 2019 Barolo Aleste. It’s racy and youthfully austere, delivering red cherry, pomegranate, star anise, cedar and white pepper framed in tightly wound, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it energized and beautifully balanced. This needs several years to fully unwind and shows serious aging potential. Drink 2029–2049.”
98 points, Kerin O'Keefe, kerinokeefe.com
Luciano Sandrone Barolo Aleste 2019 (1500ml)
Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2019 (1500ml)

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2019 (1500ml)

A blend of several small parcels of vines from several communes, Le Vigne is Sandrone’s ode to the classic, Barolo-wide blend that was once the norm. All the sites that contribute to Le Vigne are markedly different from each other in terms of altitude, soil and exposure, and together provide a broad overview of Barolo in a given year. 2019 is the first year to include Nebbiolo from Sandrone’s new holding in Le Coste di Monforte (pictured above). Sandrone has been farming this Monforte d’Alba site since 2000. So, from this vintage, Le Vigne includes fruit from five communes: Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Novello, Castiglione Falletto and Monforte d’Alba. Regarding the winemaking, wild yeast fermentation begins in tank before malolactic conversion and aging in mostly used, 500-litre French oak casks. Approximately 20-30% of the fruit is fermented as bunches, with the destemmed portion having a very high percentage of whole berries. Time on skins varied from ten days to up to one month. Total time in oak was 20-22 months and the wine was, as always, bottled unfiltered. What can we add to the notes below? Well, the wine is considerably more approachable than Galloni’s note, published 18 months ago, suggests. Indeed, at a dinner this week in Melbourne the wine looked positively charming, served with Bistecca Alla Fiorentina. And for what it’s worth, Barbara Sandrone agrees!

“The 2019 Barolo Le Vigne is pure and total seduction. Kirsch, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, cedar, dried herbs and orange peel all grace a Le Vigne built on mid-weight structure and energy. There is a feeling of youthful classicism and austerity that is so beguiling. Readers should plan on being patient, though. The 2019 won’t be ready to drink anytime soon, but there is enough fruit to make me think it will be superb, in time.”
97 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The 2019 Barolo Le Vigne is a historic blend of fruit from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba, Villero in Castiglione Falletto, Vignane in Barolo and Merli in Novello. This year, a fifth site was added to the final blend. It is the Le Coste MGA in Barolo with south-facing exposures and 45-year-old vines in a two-hectare parcel. The backbone of this wine is Baudana, and Merli adds freshness. The wine needs more time in bottle, but already it proves generous and bold with dark fruit, spice and crushed mineral.”
97+ points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
“Rose, menthol, star anise and baking spice are just some of the aromas that appear on the gorgeous Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2019. Focused, elegant and savory, the vibrant palate offers juicy red cherry, spiced cranberry, crushed mint and ground clove before a licorice close. A backbone of fine-grained tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it impeccably balanced and loaded with energy and tension. What a stunner.”
98 points, Kerin O'Keefe, kerinokeefe.com
Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2019 (1500ml)
Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2019

Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2019

A blend of several small parcels of vines from several communes, Le Vigne is Sandrone’s ode to the classic, Barolo-wide blend that was once the norm. All the sites that contribute to Le Vigne are markedly different from each other in terms of altitude, soil and exposure, and together provide a broad overview of Barolo in a given year. 2019 is the first year to include Nebbiolo from Sandrone’s new holding in Le Coste di Monforte (pictured above). Sandrone has been farming this Monforte d’Alba site since 2000. So, from this vintage, Le Vigne includes fruit from five communes: Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Novello, Castiglione Falletto and Monforte d’Alba. Regarding the winemaking, wild yeast fermentation begins in tank before malolactic conversion and aging in mostly used, 500-litre French oak casks. Approximately 20-30% of the fruit is fermented as bunches, with the destemmed portion having a very high percentage of whole berries. Time on skins varied from ten days to up to one month. Total time in oak was 20-22 months and the wine was, as always, bottled unfiltered. What can we add to the notes below? Well, the wine is considerably more approachable than Galloni’s note, published 18 months ago, suggests. Indeed, at a dinner this week in Melbourne the wine looked positively charming, served with Bistecca Alla Fiorentina. And for what it’s worth, Barbara Sandrone agrees!

“The 2019 Barolo Le Vigne is pure and total seduction. Kirsch, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, cedar, dried herbs and orange peel all grace a Le Vigne built on mid-weight structure and energy. There is a feeling of youthful classicism and austerity that is so beguiling. Readers should plan on being patient, though. The 2019 won’t be ready to drink anytime soon, but there is enough fruit to make me think it will be superb, in time.”
97 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The 2019 Barolo Le Vigne is a historic blend of fruit from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba, Villero in Castiglione Falletto, Vignane in Barolo and Merli in Novello. This year, a fifth site was added to the final blend. It is the Le Coste MGA in Barolo with south-facing exposures and 45-year-old vines in a two-hectare parcel. The backbone of this wine is Baudana, and Merli adds freshness. The wine needs more time in bottle, but already it proves generous and bold with dark fruit, spice and crushed mineral.”
97+ points, Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
“Rose, menthol, star anise and baking spice are just some of the aromas that appear on the gorgeous Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2019. Focused, elegant and savory, the vibrant palate offers juicy red cherry, spiced cranberry, crushed mint and ground clove before a licorice close. A backbone of fine-grained tannins provide support while bright acidity keeps it impeccably balanced and loaded with energy and tension. What a stunner.”
98 points, Kerin O'Keefe, kerinokeefe.com
“The flavour is built around acidity in this wine. Fine, feathery tannins at the beginning build up into firm, stony layers with each sip. Hazelnuts and red cherries, tart cranberries and also red plums. Similar on the palate with hazelnut husk and crushed cumin, cinnamon bark, dried woody spice resistance. Texture is like over-steeped green tea with a herbaceous, almost jasmine-like mouth-perfume. Beautiful is this wine.”
95 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front
Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne 2019
Luciano Sandrone Barbera d'Alba 2021 (1500ml)

Luciano Sandrone Barbera d'Alba 2021 (1500ml)

Sandrone’s layered and polished Barbera is drawn from four sites: Cascina Pe Mol, (mentioned above); Ravera and Rocche di San Nicola (in Novello); and Albarella (in Barolo). At between 350 and 450 metres, these are some of the highest, most exposed vineyards in the region, bringing superb freshness and vibrancy to this wine. To balance the structure and acidity for which this wine is noted, Sandrone matured the wine in 500 litre tonneaux (40% of which are new). The estate has special, untoasted barrels made in Burgundy for this cuvée to ensure the wood impact is as discreet as possible. Of course, when the wine is young, some wood shows through on the nose, but it is seriously classy oak. With aging, the integration is seamless. Fleshy yet graceful—expect waves of pulpy, black cherry and plum fruit, with complex hints of wild herbs and a dusting of spice from the Monforte vines. True to form, there is great class on offer here.

“Inky purple in color, the 2021 Barbera D'Alba is a serious and deep wine with aromas of plum, black licorice, lavender, and smoky cedar. Medium-bodied, it fills the palate with plush tannins, even acidity, a weightless feel, and a touch of warmth on the finish. It’s going to improve if given a chance to rest another year, but it will provide prime drinking over the next 5-6 years.”
91 points, Jeb Dunnuck, jebdunnuck.com
“Perfume of lipstick, rose, cherry blossom, plum. Shimmering red fruit with a very bright acidity and a beautiful depth of flavour. It feels darker on the palate than on the nose, textural enough and with that haunting Amaretto meets orange peel Italianesque essence. Yums.”
92 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front
Luciano Sandrone Barbera d'Alba 2021 (1500ml)
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“Sandrone is now a historic estate, but the wines keep getting better and more finessed, a testament to the drive for perfection that runs through every aspect of this exemplary winery... Luciano Sandrone is making some of his finest wines in what has been a long and extraordinary career full of successes. That in and of itself is a testament to Sandrone family’s relentless quest to improve. Of the Piedmont wineries that are still in their first generation, those that started in or around the 1980s, Luciano Sandrone is arguably the only estate that has joined the small group of properties, all of them multi-generational, whose wines are widely recognized as icons and collectibles.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous

“Luciano Sandrone is one of the leading lights in Piedmont. No grower has managed to so brilliantly reconcile modern and traditional approaches… Luciano Sandrone's wines have never been more elegant than they are today. …Simply put, Luciano Sandrone is at the top of his game.” Antonio Galloni, The Wine Advocate

“Today his cru Cannubi Boshis and blend Le Vigne, wines at their best miraculously combining power and concentration with elegance, are amongst the most sought after internationally, almost impossible to obtain even at high price.” Nicolas Belfrage, Barolo to Valpolicella

Country

Italy

Primary Region

Piemonte

People

Winemakers: The Sandrone Family

Availability

National

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