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Jean-Baptiste Souillard

The wines coming from this small, cerebral Rhône producer are a revelation. Jean-Baptiste Souillard operates somewhat under the radar; even dedicated Rhône enthusiasts may not know his name. This is partly due to the size of his production and partly because he does not actively seek the attention of critics. His Estate is not included in France’s version of The Wine Companion, La Revue du Vin de France, and he refuses to send samples, stating, "They can come to my cellar and taste any time they like.”

Jean-Baptiste was raised in Andance, within the Saint-Joseph appellation, where his father was the director of the Cave de Saint-Desirat, the main cooperative in the region. Rather than join the family business, Souillard chose to study and travel, gaining experience in Australia (with Giaconda) and New Zealand. Upon returning to France, he worked at Château Latour in Bordeaux and before a five-year stretch at Jean-Luc Colombo in Cornas.

Around this time, Jean-Baptiste had a pivotal internship at Comte Armand in Pommard, where he met a young Benjamin Leroux. While in Burgundy, Souillard became increasingly frustrated with his home region's tendency to overlook its many exciting lieux-dits in favour of large regional blends. By 2014, while working as an oenologist in Cornas, he felt ready to launch a micro-production négoce operation, adhering to the Cistercian method of “one parcel = one wine.”

Mirroring the early career of Leroux in Burgundy, Souillard initially focused on underappreciated old-vine sites across the Northern Rhône. Much of the Crozes-Hermitage we find in Australia originates from the warm flats of Les Chassis, where the vines grow in deep clay-alluvial soils topped with iconic galets roulés stones. Traveling north to Gervans and Larnage, you find terraced hillside vineyards dominated by granite. It is on these cool, rocky slopes that Souillard discovered the purity, freshness, and tension he seeks in his wines.

In both Saint-Joseph and Cornas, Souillard targets vineyards referred to as têtes de coteaux, or the tops of the hills. These remote, exposed sites have traditionally blended with their communes' more opulent terroir to introduce freshness and structure. During his time in Cornas, Souillard noticed that grapes from these unique sites, once thought marginal, were ripening more successfully in the current climate. He successfully secured several excellent old-vine parcels.

In the cellar, Souillard’s winemaking process is marked by deep thought and intuition. He is an incredibly meticulous vintner, a trait his former boss, Ben Leroux, can attest to. As Souillard recently stated, “If you want to do nothing [to the wine], you have to know everything.” Consequently, in his naturally cool cellars, reds undergo wild fermentation at their own pace, with a high proportion of whole bunches. Extractions are handled delicately and thoughtfully, and the wines age with minimal sulphur and in neutral oak (barrique).

Souillard favours what the French call vins de garde, or wines meant to age. His Syrahs typically deviate from the current trend for simple, easy-drinking vin de soif, a style he believes can be made anywhere by anyone. This doesn’t mean the wines should only be approached after aging; they are supple and precise, built around layers of perfume, spice and mineral freshness. Visitors seeking the super-ripe, full-throttle style of the Rhône Valley will not find it here. Instead, Souillard draws inspiration from the great vignerons of the northern Rhône's past—Raymond Trollat, Bernard Faurie and Robert Michel—using traditional winemaking techniques (natural yeast, whole clusters) to create a style that reflects an old-school classicism that is increasingly rare in the region today.

Souillard’s whites are equally impressive. He uses altitude, precise picking and long, slow fermentations to create a range of whites that are fresher and more food-friendly than the norm. After partial crushing, Souillard allows for a brief maceration period to extract some tannin and bitterness, which builds freshness and food-friendly structure—what he calls la voie d’amers, or "the bitter road." At their best, these whites are among the most surprising and rewarding selections in our portfolio.

As of 2022, Souillard has been working with his family’s vines in the heart of Saint-Joseph. The Andance vineyards were previously leased to the Cave de Saint-Desirat. Now farmed organically, Jean-Baptiste is using the fruit from these terrific old vine parcels in his blended Vin de France range, and to increase his range of his single-vineyard Saint-Joseph lieux-dits.

 

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Jean-Baptiste Souillard Saint-Joseph 2022

Jean-Baptiste Souillard Saint-Joseph 2022

There are five Saint-Joseph wines in the Souillard range. Four are from individual sites spanning the length of the appellation from Saint-Pierre-de-Boeuf in the north to Saint-Jean-de-Muzols in the south. This is the only blended cuvée, drawn from three vineyards in Sarras and Andance in the centre of the appellation. Souillard estimates the average age of the vines to be 30 years. All three parcels are high on the slope at around 300 metres, facing east and on 40 centimetres of decomposed granite over granite bedrock.These influences give a cooler fruit profile and more chiselled mouthfeel than the average Saint-Joseph. The winemaking is effectively the same for all the wines: spontaneous ferment and maceration in stainless steel with a large proportion of bunches before maturation in old wood. Think baby Hermitage.

“Striking wine. Game meat, red cherry, curry leaf, bay leaf, ginger, raspberry and rose hip tea with a lot of concentration, sloshy depth and grippy, granitic tannin in tow. It’s super fragrant, energetic and lithe, and yet a sense of ribald depth is apparent. Each sip releases more perfume, more pot pourri, more spice, a cavalcade of the stuff and so compelling in its way. And yet fresh. So vibrant, so lively, rising on coolness, frisky pepper and cinnamon, alpine herb, dried leaves. Yes thanks.”
94+ points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Jean-Baptiste Souillard Saint-Joseph 2022
Jean-Baptiste Souillard Crozes-Hermitage 2021

Jean-Baptiste Souillard Crozes-Hermitage 2021

Like Hermitage, the northern Crozes village of Gervans is a severed fragment of the Ardèche granite uplands on the opposite side of the Rhône. In fact, only 10% of Crozes is on granite, with the majority composed of alluvial and clay soil, covered by thick layers of the iconic galets roulés. However, it’s on the frigid, granite slopes around Gervans and Larnage that Souillard finds the purity and freshness he craves in his Crozes wines. He makes only three to four barrels of the village Crozes each year. It’s a blend of two parcels in Gervans: one on pure granite soils high up the slope, which brings a great deal of freshness; and the second from a mix of granite and gravel soils closer to the river.The ferment is mostly whole bunches in stainless steel before 14 months’ maturation in old barriques (three to 10 years old). The wine bears Souillard’s trademark of structure, moderate alcohol, tension and balance, and is thus far removed from the softer, plusher style of Crozes found further south.

“Joli red colour; this has a nose of interest, potential, with a good reserve in its red cherry style fruit, is faithful to its place. The palate fruit is clear running, has a little smoky drive, with blood and iron tracking the finish. It’s upright, with scope, is good, the palate aided by the relative openness of the alluvial part, floral touches aftertaste.” John Linvingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhone
Jean-Baptiste Souillard Crozes-Hermitage 2021
Jean-Baptiste Souillard Saint-Joseph 2021

Jean-Baptiste Souillard Saint-Joseph 2021

There are five Saint-Joseph wines in the Souillard range. Four are from individual sites, which span the length of the appellation from Saint-Pierre-de-Boeuf in the north to Saint-Jean-de-Muzols in the south. This is the only blended cuvée, drawn from three vineyards in Sarras and Andance in the centre of the appellation. Souillard estimates the average age of the vines to be 30 years. All three parcels are high on the slope at around 300 metres, facing east and on 40 centimetres of decomposed granite over granite bedrock.These influences give this cuvée a cooler fruit profile and more chiselled mouthfeel than the average Saint-Joseph. The winemaking is effectively the same for all the wines—spontaneous ferment and maceration in stainless steel before maturation in old wood—though the villages and lieu-dit wines are fermented with a large proportion of whole bunches, as was the case here. Think baby Hermitage.

Jean-Baptiste Souillard Saint-Joseph 2021
Jean-Baptiste Souillard Crozes-Hermitage Les Baties 2021

Jean-Baptiste Souillard Crozes-Hermitage Les Baties 2021

Les Bâties is a cool, southeast-facing lieu-dit on the stony red clay, loess and fractured, oxidised granite of Larnage—part of a valley on the northern side of the Hermitage hill. This was the historic centre of Crozes-Hermitage before the planting of the broad Chassis plain to the south (after the 1970s). Again, altitude (200 metres) and granite are key factors, as are the age and pruning of the vines (goblet-pruned Syrah planted in the 1950s and 1960s). With Souillard’s signature purity, freshness and balance writ large, the 2021 is a beautifully cool and compact Crozes. This cuvée was fermented with mostly whole clusters and raised for 14 months in mature casks.

“Darkish red robe; the bouquet has a blood tinged air, an elemental air, is really compelling, a rather wild offer, full raspberry in a vivid opening. The palate also springs out, has a natural level of iron and crisp reach, with fine intensity in its juice from the old vines. It has good character – there’s plenty of propulsion, therefore interest, here. It’s very good, has truth and style, is STGT wine.” John Linvingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhone
Jean-Baptiste Souillard Crozes-Hermitage Les Baties 2021
Jean-Baptiste Souillard Syrah 2021

Jean-Baptiste Souillard Syrah 2021

A granite-free Syrah from Souillard here, and a beauty nonetheless. This was drawn from two separate parcels in the Drôme (one planted in the 1980s, the other in the ’90s). Both are tiny plots (0.2ha total) on clay over sand at Chavannes, due west of Crozes-Hermitage. Conceived as an approachable style, it still gives a strong sense of what to expect as you head up the range. Fermented wild, the winemaking took in some whole-clusters and pump-overs. Aging plays out over 12 to 15 months in older oak barrels. The result is a bright, spicy, perfumed Syrah with textured tannins, flavours of crushed red and black fruit and a fine, elegant and refreshing finish. All that’s needed is a medium-rare entrecôte or rib eye.

“Dark robe; the nose carries a lucid blackberry fruit air with care and appealing sweetness. The palate has an iron thread that gives a spur of freshness, has a lead pencil, lingering tone with fine detail. It’s a wine of precision, and neat fruit, accuracy, fits well with the house style of pinpoint wines.” John Linvingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhone
Jean-Baptiste Souillard Syrah 2021
Jean-Baptiste Souillard Côte-Rôtie Coteaux de Bassenon 2021

Jean-Baptiste Souillard Côte-Rôtie Coteaux de Bassenon 2021

Souillard Côte-Rôtie is not your average Côte-Rôtie! Jean-Baptise works with two terroirs in this appellation. Tartaras is one of Côte-Rôtie’s highest vineyards, sitting at 320 metres above Ampuis. This is from the Coteaux de Bassenon, the southernmost terroir in Côte-Rôtie, part of the Côte Blonde and touching Condrieu. It is a very small (0.1 hectare) east-facing parcel at 280 metres above sea level. The soil is broken-down granite and sand with topsoil measuring just 40 to 50 centimetres. Jean-Michel Stéphan also farms 1.5 hectares here—although Souillard’s section is considerably more modest.Souillard says, “We’re on sandy soils that produce very elegant wines. It’s a real coteau with terraces, and grades of 60-65%. The vines are not extremely old: one parcel is 15 years old, the other 35. Age of vines is less important in the northern Rhône since the roots have no choice but to plunge directly into the bedrock.” The Côte-Rôtie is fermented with partial whole clusters in tank and frequent pump-overs. This wine is aged longer in barrel—up to 20 months—although, again, none of this oak is new. Unfettered by high alcohol and woody flavours, it’s a pitch-perfect expression of earth-to-glass Côte Rôtie—all purity and dark minerals.

“Dark red; the nose has potential, a firm inlay of red fruit with a neat hint of flowers, and cracked pepper. The palate gives a run of red fruited content that will become stylish, gathers depth and a neat amount of maturity in its late fruit, the tannins nicely set, typical of Bassenon in their sandy nature. Attractive fruit here, with deft tannins.” John Linvingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhone

“Dark red; the nose has potential, a firm inlay of red fruit with a neat hint of flowers, and cracked pepper. The palate gives a run of red fruited content that will become stylish, gathers depth and a neat amount of maturity in its late fruit, the tannins nicely set, typical of Bassenon in their sandy nature. Attractive fruit here, with deft tannins.” John Linvingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhone
Jean-Baptiste Souillard Côte-Rôtie Coteaux de Bassenon 2021
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Country

France

Primary Region

Northern Rhône

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Winemaker: Jean-Baptiste Souillard

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National

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