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Domaine Weinbach

Faller Genius: Mesmerising Riesling and Gewürztraminer from one of the World’s Greatest Wine Estates

Let’s cut to the chase: Greatness is not always easy to define, yet here it’s straightforward. There’s the legendary quality of the domaine’s terroirs for a start. Weinbach is the largest landholder on the Schlossberg hill, one of the world’s premier sites for Riesling. Then, there is the outstanding, certified biodynamic work in the vines, the low yields—typically less than 35 hl/ha—and the strict fruit selection at harvest time. Furthermore, there is the classic, minimalist, refined-over-many-decades practice in the cellars that includes whole-cluster pressing, wild-yeast fermentation with no additions and maturation in colossal ancient casks. Finally, there’s the brilliance and longevity of the wines themselves, a high standard domaine Weinbach has achieved for longer than anyone can remember.

Of course, no discussion would be complete without mention of the great women who established the modern Domaine Weinbach: Colette Faller and her two daughters, Laurence and Catherine. Sadly, two of these great wine women have been lost to us. Today, the emblematic Catherine Faller—surely France’s most charismatic First Lady of wine—is the matriarch. Working with Catherine are her sons, Théo and Eddy Faller, who oversee the day-to-day running of the domaine and are driving it to higher peaks. Longstanding maître de chai, Ghislain Berthiot, revels in the phenomenal fruit quality the Faller family give him to work with.

Domaine Weinbach farms 32 hectares of vineyards, predominantly Grand Cru. The most famous terroir is the majestic Schlossberg hill, closely followed by the walled Clos de Capucins, a Weinbach fiefdom that lies around the house and its cellars. Put simply, Schlossberg is one of the greatest Riesling vineyards in the world. Its quality was well-known as early as the 15th century. For this reason, it was the first vineyard in Alsace to receive the status of Grand Cru in 1975.

Weinbach owns eight hectares of this terroir. Another of the Faller’s great terroirs is the monopole, Clos de Capucins. Taking its name from the Capuchin friars who arrived here in 1619, the clos is at the bottom of a slope, well protected from winds by the surrounding hills. Its soils consist of sand, alluvium, granite gravel and pebbles. And we should not forget the majestic Furstentum Grand Cru, which produces some of the world’s most profound Gewurztraminer in the gifted hands of the Faller family.

Domaine Weinbach is universally regarded as one of the greatest producers of Alsace and therefore by proxy, one of the greatest ‘aromatic’ Domaines in the world. It is a Domaine that produces an endless stream of wines that are as delicious as they are profound.

The purchase, in 2019, of six hectares once belonging to Domaine Gérard Fuchs has added another Grand Cru string to Weinbach’s granite-rich bow. The parcels—now in biodynamic conversion—include mature vines from within the Grand Crus of Mambourg, Mackrain and Kaefferkopf and a one-hectare block in Furstentum planted to Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinots Blanc and Gris. Yet the sale lot was not limited to Grand Cru terroir—Weinbach has also picked up some choice parcels of village-level vineyard, all lying within a four-kilometre radius of the winery in Kaysersberg. With many of these parcels now in play, the Faller family has seized the chance to embark on a range of winemaking trials, and these fascinating wines are released under the Ø Intrant (Zero Input) label.

The Fallers work as closely with nature as possible. They have farmed organically for some time; however, in the late 1990s, they began the conversion towards biodynamics and completed it in time for the 2005 vintage. Only organic compost is used, and the high value placed on hand vineyard management means there is no recourse for anti-fungal or insecticide treatments. Since conversion, we’ve noted an incremental rise in the wines’ minerality and freshness, alongside greater clarity and depth of fruit. The wines have more body, tone and shape and are somehow more pristine, with brilliant intensity. They glow with life on the palate,
The fruit is pressed as whole bunches into large ancient foudres where it ferments with indigenous yeasts. The ferments are unhurried and the wine is untended until it is ready for bottling without fining.

In terms of style, Weinbach offers a remarkable confluence of intensity and clarity, power and finesse, as contradictory as that sounds. There is also clarity and homogeneity when it comes to the levels of dryness (a rarity in Alsace these days). All the Rieslings are dry unless they are late harvest (marked “Vendage tardive”, “Séléction de grains nobles” or “l’Inédit”, the latter being a specific late-harvest bottling). The Gewurztraminers all have residual sugar, but this is balanced by the phenolics and Alsace’s natural acidity. In sum, the carnival of layered, rocky, and, at times, bewilderingly complex wines crafted at this remarkable estate is something to behold.

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Weinbach Alsace Les Vignes du Prêcheur 2021

Weinbach Alsace Les Vignes du Prêcheur 2021

Biodynamic in conversion. Now in its third vintage, this cracking field blend hails from a single vineyard beneath the Grand Cru Kaefferkopf, not far from the domaine. It’s on sandy-silt soils ideally suited to producing fresh, dry, early-drinking whites. The site is currently managed organically and is in conversion to both organic and biodynamic certification.Prêcheur is a co-fermentation of five Alsatian varieties: 40% Riesling; 30% Auxerrois; 20% Pinot Gris; 5% Muscat; and 5% Sylvaner. The fruit was pressed as whole bunches and fermented wild in old oak vats. The wine spent eight months on lees before being bottled unfined. Bustling with citrusy vibrancy, 2021 is a lithe, chiselled white with vibrant freshness counterpointing the wine’s enticing, fleshy summer fruit and floral prettiness. There’s signature Weinbach intensity, yet the wine feels uber-bright, with grip and balanced acidity alongside yellow-fruited length and light phenolic grip that draws you back to the glass.

The Prêcheur is a co-fermentation of five Alsatian grape varieties: 40% Riesling; 30% Auxerrois; 20% Pinot Gris; 5% Muscat; and 5% Sylvaner. The harvest was whole-bunch pressed, fermented wild in old oak vats and then bottled (unfined) after eight months on lees. Bustling with citrussy vibrancy, 2021 gifts a lithe, chiselled white with vibrant freshness counterpointing the wine’s enticing, fleshy summer fruit and floral prettiness. There’s signature Weinbach intensity, yet the wine feels uber-bright, with grip and balanced acidity alongside yellow-fruited length and light phenolic grip that draws you back to the glass.

“A very charming wine with slightly exotic fruit salad of aromas with plenty of tangerine. Juicy with a very appealing balance of medium body and moderate acidity. Then comes the supple finish that’s supported by fine tannins. A co-ferment based on Riesling with auxerrois, pinot gris, muscat and sylavner.”
92 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
Weinbach Alsace Les Vignes du Prêcheur 2021
Weinbach Alsace Théo Riesling 2022

Weinbach Alsace Théo Riesling 2022

Biodynamic. Théo Riesling comes exclusively from the monopole Le Clos des Capucins—a vineyard that takes its name from the Capuchin friars who arrived in the area in 1619—at the base of the celebrated Schlossberg hill. The clos is well protected from winds by the surrounding hills and walls. The soils are sand, alluvial pebbles and granitic gravel. The low-cropping vines typically offer up a supple and pithy Riesling that is wonderfully accessible when young—a reflection of these sandy soils. As with all Weinbach dry Rieslings, this was pressed as whole bunches, fermented without any yeast additions, and matured in very old oak casks for, in this case, 10 months.

“At once juicy, concentrated and refined, this is stunning wine that is intended for more or less everyday drinking. A wealth of stone fruit and fresh almond aromas, plus a touch of mandarin oranges. Stunning balance and finesse at the very long, silky finish.”
94 points, Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
Weinbach Alsace Théo Riesling 2022
Weinbach Alsace Les Treilles du Loup Gewurztraminer 2022

Weinbach Alsace Les Treilles du Loup Gewurztraminer 2022

Biodynamic. This stunning dry Gewurztraminer is drawn from a parcel of 40–50-year-old vines from the Wolfreben lieu-dit in the Kaysersberg valley between Clos des Capucins and the village of Kaysersberg. The soils are sandy silt over granite pebbles. Gewurztraminer in this terroir ripens early, producing wines with complex aromatics and powerful concentration. With 10 g/L residual sugar, this is an explosively aromatic wine, redolent of white tea, pink pepper and peach skin. Although intense and viscous, it’s wonderfully refined, pure and savoury with classic Weinbach precision and detail. The juicy, driven finish is epic, studded with the mouth-watering freshness of orange zest and mineral steel. Although we would love to try this with the savoury/smoky tarte flambée—spicy Asian dishes should be the go-to.

“An extraordinarily fine and fresh wine for this grape variety. What an excitingly smoky nose this youthful dry gewurz has. Very cool and silky with a delicate touch of bitterness that gives this an extra kick in the extremely long finish that’s clean and linear.”
95 points, Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
Weinbach Alsace Les Treilles du Loup Gewurztraminer 2022
Weinbach Alsace Pinot Blanc 2022

Weinbach Alsace Pinot Blanc 2022

Biodynamic. Dry. In Alsace, the term Pinot Blanc is used to describe varietal wines or blends containing any percentage of Auxerrois. Weinbach’s Pinot Blanc is a blend of 70% Auxerrois and 30% Pinot Blanc. For fellow nerds, recent DNA studies indicate Auxerrois is a cross between Gouais Blanc and Pinot Noir. Weinbach’s blend comes from Clos des Capucins (with 45-year-old vines) and a plot from the limestone/clay soils at the foot of the Altenbourg vineyard. As with the dry Rieslings, the Pinot Blanc was pressed as whole bunches and raised over eight months in large-format wood (previous vintages were raised in tank).It's a far more layered and complex wine than you might expect from these varieties. It’s fleshy and mouth-filling with orchard fruits, white blossom and chamomile flavours and a textural core threaded through with punchy freshness. As with all these 2022s, it’s very hard to drink slowly!

Weinbach Alsace Pinot Blanc 2022
Weinbach Alsace Grand Cru Furstentum Gewürztraminer 2021

Weinbach Alsace Grand Cru Furstentum Gewürztraminer 2021

Biodynamic. Weinbach is one of the very finest domaines for this grape variety in Alsace. The style stands out for its purity, balance and savouriness—and for the lack of overt, confected notes that mark so many examples. Restrained focus is the theme. At the northern limit of Altenbourg, the terraced slopes of Furstentum rise swiftly from 300 to 400 metres at the top of the Mont de Sigolsheim. This steep, south-facing slope is one of the great terroirs for Gewürztraminer in Alsace. The soil is brown clay full of limestone, with a pebbly structure that holds both moisture and warmth. Crafted from low-yielding 90-year-old vines, as always, this terroir has produced a remarkable, textural Gewürztraminer in 2021. In a word – wow. An intricate nose of honeysuckle, blossom and exotic florals gives way to an opulent mouthfeel studded with delicious candied orange notes and juicy ripe peach. The finish is dense and pure, with a bead of balancing acidity and overt minerality. The balance is sublime, and the length is detailed and refreshing, finishing with more sweet/sour orange fruits. No one does Gewürz quite like this. With roughly 48 g/L residual (balanced by structure and freshness), this would be brilliant with terrine, pâté and, again, many styles of Asian cuisine—more specifically, chilli crab or other spicy seafood dishes. Of course, it’s also a winning match with Munster or Époisses (or most washed-rind cheeses).

Crafted from low-yielding 90-year-old vines, as always, this terroir has produced a remarkable, textural Gewürztraminer in 2021. In a word – wow. An intricate nose of honeysuckle, blossom and exotic florals gives way to an opulent mouthfeel studded with delicious candied orange notes and juicy ripe peach. The finish is dense and pure, with a bead of balancing acidity and overt minerality. The balance is sublime, and the length is detailed and refreshing, finishing with more sweet/sour orange fruits. No one does Gewürz quite like this. With roughly 48 g/L residual (balanced by structure and freshness), this would be brilliant with terrine, pâté and, again, many styles of Asian cuisine—more specifically, chilli crab or other spicy seafood dishes. Of course, it’s also a winning match with Munster or Époisses (or most washed-rind cheeses)

“A very lush and exotically floral gewurz with tremendous concentration and plenty of rose hip and caramel alongside the restrained papaya character. Very long creamy finish with a beautifully integrated sweetness that pulls you back for more. Still quite tight at the finish. Fermented for almost a year and may well show better after more bottle age.”
96 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
Weinbach Alsace Grand Cru Furstentum Gewürztraminer 2021
Weinbach Alsace Les Caracoles Pinot Gris 2021

Weinbach Alsace Les Caracoles Pinot Gris 2021

Biodynamic. Previously known as Pinot Gris “Ste. Catherine”, this Pinot Gris is now named after its vineyard’s ancient cadastral name, Les Caracoles, which lies in the Schnackator lieu-dit below Altenbourg.Schnackator translates as the “snails gate”, a name perhaps linked to the snail-shaped fossils that run through the vineyard’s limestone soils. It is just underneath the Altenbourg on clay and limestone and the vines are 40-50 years old. The Fallers note that this terroir offers relatively cool, slow maturing conditions with consistently high acid levels in the juice. Add in 2021’s low pH and the limestone soils, and the result is a pristine and uniquely tension-fuelled Alsatian Gris. So much plays out in the review below.

“If you are ever worried that Alsace pinot gris might be too extravagant for you, here is an incredibly pure and wonderfully balanced example. Super-ripe apricot yet so bright and clean, then you are pulled into the simultaneous rich and tense palate of this amazing pinot gris. Very dry and extremely straight finish.”
95 points, Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com
Weinbach Alsace Les Caracoles Pinot Gris 2021
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“Domaine Weinbach is arguably one of the world’s greatest wine estates. Over the years, the Faller family has produced myriad fantastic wines that are sought by wine lovers and collectors everywhere. That consistent track record has shed light on Alsace’s many delicious, age-worthy and memorable white wines. Quality is so high across the board at Weinbach that it is hard to choose a single “best” wine as the subject of a vertical tasting.” Ian D’Agata, Vinous

Country

France

Primary Region

Alsace

People

Winemakers: Ghislain Berthiot and Théo Leiber-Faller

Availability

National

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